No Sound I haven't been able to get this to work. I've tried it straight and bridged it powers up but does nothing going to my subs (2x)(TS-W307D4 12 SUBWOOFER 1200W) any suggestions?

Yes. You will be able to run this setup with the sub bridged across both channels of the amp, which will give you more power (which the sub will be able to handle: 380 watts rms), or with the sub wired to a single channel, which will give you less power (125 watts rms). The sub can handle 400 watts rms.

Nice sub, i have 2 308d4s in my car. Okay this sub is a dual coil 2 ohm. so to get best bang for your buck you'll want a 2 channel amp and bridge it. Your sub is 400 watts RMS, So you'll want an amp that has the same rating. I'd recommend the pioneer GM-5400t. Then wire your voice coils in parallel, and bridge your amp, you'll get 380 watts RMS, which is perfect for this sub. If you have questions on wiring or anything you can just ask. thanks, i hope this helps

Hello oran1891,

OK, you don't bridge subs. You bridge amps, if they are capable of being bridged (not all are).

Bridging is a method of connecting the channels of a multi-channel amp in such a way that the amp delivers the output of 2 stereo channels into a single mono load.

The Polk DB1040DVC is a sub with dual 4ohm voice coils. You can wire the voice coils to present a final 2ohm load (parallel) or a final 8ohm load (series). The rated power range is 50-270 watts RMS. Since you can parallel the voice coils and have them present a 2ohm load to the amp, you are looking for an amp that provides a minimum of 50 and a maximum of 270 (round it up to 300) watts into a 2ohm load. The Rockford-Fosgate Punch 300.1 shown here for $170 seems tailor made for your Sub. If you can make do with less power and want to spend a little less money, the Orion Cobalt CO500.1 will deliver 250 watts RMS at 2ohms and you can buy it for $140. The punch is a better deal. If you decide to add another sub later, it will power them both with 150 watts each, a little low, but still decent. If you want a 2-channel bridgeable amp, I'd recommend the Kicker 08DX3002 shown here for $200. Note that in bridged mode, it is not stable at 2ohms, only down to 4ohms.

Hope this helps.

it has a detector that kicks in it will usually shut off your amp and it keeps you from blowing your amp the speaker may have to much power and amp may not push it it will start to protect itself

Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty. Clipping means you have exceeded capacity. .A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you.

You *can* run it full range, but it likely won't sound very good. A low pass filter will make it sound a lot better.

1. no all amps can go bad with a bad installer !
2. repairs sometimes go for as much as it was new! so somettimes not worth it!
3.1 12 4ohm would sound lot better i reccomed mono amps for subs being they only put out low feqz and are better and more battery effient!

What type of subs are they? Single or dual voice coils? 2 ohm or 4 ohm?

probably your power is too short, increase your gauge wire, and your ground wire of the amplifier has to be shortly as possible, and the positive has to be enough to support peak power, you can also put a big capacitor on the positive wire to give some more power while the bass peak.

First of all, make sure your amp is bridgeable. There are a few ways to bridge subs. series: hook one wire from the negative on the left amp output (or whichever is labeled on amp for bridged)to left sub negative. left sub positive to right sub negative, then right sub positive to the amp positive output.(like a big loop through both speakers) parallel: both speakers get their own set of wires, both negatives go to the bridge negative terminal, and both positives go to the positive bridge terminal. Series-parallel: A combination of the two. say two speakers in series, and one hooked up alone, but all to the same amp outputs. Bridging your amp/speakers basically lowers the resistance of the circuit and makes more current flow, more power, louder, harder hit. In series, it also makes both speakers do exactly the same thing, instead of "stereo sound" or L/R differences. What you're probably looking to do is Bridge in parallel. That will drop the resistance of the circuit the lowest, allow the amp to put out the most amount of current to the speakers, and allow your bass to hit the hardest. If your amp only has one output, hook up the same way as above. Just see what resistance your amp is stable down to. If down to 1 ohm, no worries. if stable only to 2 or 4 ohms, you may want to bridge in series to be safe. That will cause the resistance to go up, and will not pull as much current through the amp. The whole time, just remember Bridgeing and higher current mean HEAT so watch your amp. I hope this helped.