I have had the unit for over a year, and it is now dead. Looks like others have had the same problem with other brands, something about a power switch failure. These are relatively cheap units but I would like to fix it for less than the cost of a replacment if I can. An e-mail to the company has not produced any results to date. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated...
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FIX YOUR HEATER ...THAT IS STUPID AND WILL MORE THAN LIKELY CAUSE A FIRE. SO DONT. Just call the 1-800 number on the back of the unit. The customer rep will tell you what to do from there.
I had the unit on today about 15 minutes . The unit almost burned my house down . I have not called or emailed the company yet . It scared my wife and son , luckly I had the guts to unplug the unit and get out the front door .Thank God for the fire extinguisher !!!!! DO NOT TRY TO FIX YOUR UNIT . PLEEEAAASSEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
On lakewood radiator that was dead I found problem caused by what I believe is fuse opening. Part is located in white wire which goes from thermostat to common terminal on radiator terminal block. The part is in series with this wire and is covered by a white movable sleeve and is dressed/located under the terminal block.
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Re: Dead Oil Filled Radiator
If this is a generic problem then it is most likley the THERMOSTAT. This is the switch on the end of the radiator that regulates the temperature.
It is possible to bypass the thermostat so that the radiator is permanantly on.
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If it feels like the whole thing is dead in the water, then it is probably your fuse in the back. always include the year and the make of your unit. then people can help more. fuses on modern refrigs are mounted on the circuit board in the back and have to be soldered off and on.
Unfortunately this tv has received many bad reviews. One being the remote does not function properly while trying to turn the tv on/off. Other negative reviews have read the remote has a very short range. Can you turn the tv on by using the buttons found on top of the tv itself? The remote comes with 2 AAA batteries. When you said the tv is dead did any lights come on the front? If so check the power supply for any bulging capacitors. You may have several whose life span has come to an end and stopped charging enouugh to power on the back lights which lights the screen. This may be your problem. Good Luck!!!!!!!
It was a fuse in the power supply unit. my unit was different than everyone else so it was tough desiding just what the fuse was. it was a grey cylinder shaped like a fuse alright....but wasnt in the normal fuse slot. after much searching and looking at the different images of other units........I just said well , if it looks like a fuse......I checked it for contanuity with a test light and a small milli amp charger....no currnent.
I hopped it with a jumper wire....plugged it in....Its alive !!!!!
Car audio decks are just like pets....You go through many in a life time and you will eventually just have to put the thing to sleep....Not meaning to sound insensitive but It sounds like the micro crystals and/or micro electrical circuits are finally fried. These "quirks" as you described, are symptoms of an elderly deck that was dying of microscopic electrical short circuits which caused the main panel to go...Dust, corrosion, and heat are immanent and typical causes. It's really going to be more money fix it than whats it would be worth to just buy a new one. You can find refurbished ones on E-bay pretty easily, or you can be open to trying something different. I have had the best luck with Pioneer, JVC, Bose and Rockford-Fosgate. Stay away from cheaper brands such as "Rampage", "Audiovox"...people just buy those to fill the hole in the dash before they trade thier car in.
There's a line fuse for these sets inside the radio on a printed circuit
board. NOTE: for your safety, disconnect the radio from its power
source before you open the case and poke around inside. The best way
to check the fuse is with an ohm meter, but you can probably check it
visually using a strong flashlight. There should be a wire filament
running the length of the fuse. If it's intact, so is the fuse. If
it's broken or not visible at all, the fuse is "blown" and needs to be
replaced. If the fuse checks out ok, the power transformer is likely
bad -- a problem that these sets are notorious for. Bose will charge
you $100 for the transformer repair (unless the set is still under
warranty), and having it done is strictly a matter of personal choice.
My choice would be to sell the Bose on eBay as a "tech special" and
pick up one of the newer HD radios. They offer much better sound at a
much lower price.
You probably have a bad main control or console control unit in there. Turn power off to the machine, be sure that BOTH of your door switches are ok. Unplug your membrane to control panel ribbon cable, then put everything back in place. Leave the door open, then turn power back on to machine. (also, be sure the thermal fuse hasnt tripped while your in the console). After re-appling power, close the door, and wait a few, if the console unit is bad, the machine will go into drain mode (you will here the unit start in drain). If no drain mode, then your control is shorted. You dont have to see any burn marks, etc for one to be bad, in fact, 98% of the boards we replace, dont show any signs of problems. Let me know what you find out.
Sorry to break this to you but the power supply unit has blown. We have had a few of these back at my workshop with the same problem the only way to repair it is a new power board but without looking at it, it may be something else like the power switch isn't turned on!!.
It's actually cheaper to upgrade the machine than fit a new power board.