Question about Sram 850 8 Speed Cassette 11-32t Mountain Bike

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The cassette or hub "clunks" on my mountain bike

When I'm climbing hills on my mountain bike, I hear a clunking sound coming from the rear hub or cassette. I think it is the hub because the clunk only happens when I'm actually pedaling and putting pressure on the drive train. Also, the "clunk" frequency matches the rpm of my wheel. So, if I'm going slowly, the clunk is slow. If I'm moving fast, the clunk is faster. the "clunk" is definitely timed with the rpm of the wheel and not my cadence.

I've tried to loosen and tighten the cassette again, but this didn't help.

Any ideas?
Thanks
Paul

Other notes:
I have a relatively new entry level bike, so the components aren't great.
It's a Specialized Hardrock.

Posted by Paul Nevlud on

  • Paul Nevlud
    Paul Nevlud Jun 19, 2009

    Turns out my bike has a freewheel and not a hub. It's a older/cheaper technology. I'm going to have to buy a new wheel.

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Anonymous

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  • 98 Answers

It sounds like the barrings your going to have to bring it to a shop or buy a new wheel

Posted on May 04, 2009

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most multi-speed bikes these days use Cassette rear hubs. The cassette is held in place on the hub via a lock ring that has some small teeth on the inside. Since there are many different brands on the market, you have to have the right cassette lock ring tool for your cassette. They cost about $10-15 each. You will also need a tool called a chain whip ($15-20) to hold the cassette in place, to prevent it from "free-wheeling" while you engage the lock ring tool to unscrew the lock ring. Once the lock ring is removed, the cassette will slide right off of the free hub body. Note that the free hub body has splines on it and the cassette can only be installed when all the inner teeth on the cassette gears line up with the splines on the free hub body. The first couple of cogs are usually loose, take care to note the order in which they are removed and their respective spaces so that they can be reinstalled in the proper order or else you bike won't shift correctly. Your LBS (local bike shop) will have all of these tools and most charge $5-15 in labor to remove and reinstall a cassette, some will do it for free if you buy the parts from them.
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Clueless

The rear cassette is only a part of the solution. The front gearset also comes with a variety of ring/teeth configurations.
Plenty on new bikes come with a 'compact' gearset (2 front rings, 10 speed rear cassette). That is generally a lower gear ration to aid in hill climbing.
The rear cassettes are easily interchanged (must be same brand as what the hub uses). Of the 3 you listed; the 11-26 would be "Fastest".

If you want to go fast, and are fit enough to power it at speed for a good duration... look for a large crank ring (greatest number of teeth) and a small cassette # (like the 11-26 you listed). It's a sinple ratio calculation. What you're looking for is the most amount of rear wheel rotations per crank rotation. That is achieved by a big (lots of teeth) front ring and a small (not many teeth) rear cassette ring.

While at the bike store, put the bike in it's highest gear (biggest ring on the crankset, smallest ring on the wheel cassette). Lift the rear wheel off the ground and count the amount of rear wheel rotations for 1 crank rotaion.

A triathalon/time-trial bike will come with a ratio of about 5.5-6.5 rotatotions of the rear wheel for each rotation of the crank.
An endurance road bike (with compact gearset) might come with about 4.25 rear wheel rotations for each crank rotation.

Tri/TT bikes are made to put the rider in the most areodynamic position possible thereby reducing the wind drag and making pedaling easier (so you can manage a higher gear ratio). Endurance road bikes are designed to put the rider in a confortable position (more upright) for all day riding.

Get the bike shop to fit you properly to the bike you choose, not all shops offer this. There are professional bike fitters that can help you when you get close.

Hope that helps
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