Stopped making ice, motor is running, compressor is working, large blks of ice are forming in the rack above were they should be dropping into the bin

Mine is similar and the little pump motor failed on it. Bought
a new unit. Couldn't find a pump for it

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

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If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. If there is no ice formation we have a big issue as the compressor and gas must be checked out. If compressor is running check the pressure, get help to test gas pressure. If not you will need to fill up ,If gas pressure is good the possibility of the compressor being inefficient is high. In such a case you must take consensus to estimate and decide, if RPM of motor is low check capacitor.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off. If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.

The ventilation fan that circulates the COLD air from the evaporator coils could get clogged with frost and so could be jammed. Also the wires to the fan can be worn out due to the frost. If so check if the defrost timer works to switch the heater to remove the frost. Also the check if the compressor is shut down by the timer /thermostat . If the heaters are not working, check continuity of the heaters.
So attempt to test using a multi-meter / clamp tester from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check this link for tips to work.

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2

Thank you for using Fixya.

Vacuuming the coil is not usually sufficient to clean them properly. Hold a flashlight behind the radiator on top of the freezer to see if you can see freely through the coils. If not, the best way to clean the coil is to spray coil cleaner on there and flush with plenty of water. It is a mess but it will get the grease off the coild. If you do not have gauges to check the pressures of the refrigerant (lets call it freon), you can get a good guess by doing the following: Get a ladder, climb up so you can see in the top of the cabinet where the compressor is located. It looks kind of like a bowling ball. There will be one small copper line and one large copper line running from the compressor. The small line is the high pressure line. It should be hot enough to burn your finger. It then goes through a small pan where it evaporates excess water, then to a "radiator" which has a fan running behind it. If the machine is running this fan should be on. The small line then runs into the freezer box. At this point the line should be warm, not hot to the touch. If this is not happening you are probably low on freon. The other copper line on the compressor is returning from the freezer box to the compressor. It should be very cold to the touch. It should have moisture collection on it. If this is not happening you are probably low on freon. Other factors can effect your freezer. Make sure the fan near the compressor is running. Make sure the fan or fans inside the freezer are running. They will stop running when you open the door, so hold the door button in when you check the inside fans. Check also to see if there is a build up of ice on the inside coil. Your freezer should run a defrost cycle 4 times a day to remove the ice. If it has ice it will not run properly. If you can remove your product for 24 hours and shut the freezer down, prop the door open and the ice will melt. On restart if the freezer goes down to 0 quickly (30 minutes) it was probably frozen over. This may indicate a bad defrost timer or heater. Try these things.

yes the compressor seems to be good but it has an internal overload inside the compressor if that collaps your compressor is busted but try to ajust the temp..or reduse the refrigerant charge to minimal the running hour of the compressor.

Hi, It is not uncommon for the suction line on a unit to have ice on it when cooling. This means that where the ice starts forming on the line, there is liquid freon there. But, if it continues to get worse, would indicate a problem as you don't want liquid freon to enter the compressor as it will burn out the valves, or slug it as we say. Icing of this line can be from a few things. Low on freon will cause it to ice up. The freezer fan/evaporator fan motor not working. The freezer iced over real bad. An over charged system will do this, but you haven't had to charge it. Check the fan I mentioned and keep an eye on this line and monitor the units temperature. If you start to loose your cooling then we need to go from there. I can't prevent it from forming ice unless I was on site to install my service gauges to check the internal condition. Please keep me posted though. If the freezer fan is not running, this would be the problem and would need to be replaced. If you had excess to a volt meter and it wasn't running, you could check power to this motor. Let me know if it is not running and check the temperatures closely.
Good Luck,
Shastalaker7

Check the condenser fan underneath the unit accessable form the back behind the cardboard cover. It should be running when the compressor runs. OR Check the evaporator behind the rear cover inside the freezer. Check for ice build up. . Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control

Make it a habit to defrost it every week. You see, when ice forms around the evaporator tubes (which runs around the walls of fridge and freezer), heat exchange reduces (that means heat is no longer absorbed from the things inside the refrigerator) and cooling stops. See whether freezer walls or fridge walls are damaged. Do not use knives or any other sharp tools to remove ice. Do not forcefully remove items that are difficult to take out from the freezer. Defrost and remove them.

Here's my thoughts, I hope it helps. I'm going on foggy memory here, so I may not be entirely correct.
I worked on something like this a few years ago. The icemold (plate) is vertical, there is a circulating pump that runs water over the mold, with the water freezing as it passes. The sealed system is a heat-pump scheme, it freezes the mold to form the cubes, and reverses to heat for release. And when it works, it makes ice fast. It runs constantly until the ice hopper is detected to be full. (there should be a bail to detect the ice level) The system will not run in the event that it thinks the hopper is full (bail up) but the pump motor runs continuous to avoid it freezing. There is probably either a false detection of "full" or there may be a leak in the sealed system and the system will therefore not run.

I would not change the pump. If it runs for 3-5 minutes and stops, it has to be a control. The control board runs the freeze cycle for the first 5 minutes. This prevent "Short Cycling" of the freeze cycle. The board looks at the float after the first 5 minutes for the proper water level but should not effect the pump. If the pump does not run in the wash mode, check out the "Power/ Wash" switch. I would start there before I go spending hundreds on pump motor or control board. You may be able to get by on a $20 fix! Do this and get back to me. We will get it going.

Good Luck

3 beeps. hoshizaki replacing txv