Dryer has heat but will not tumble
SOURCE: Maytag dryer heating element does not turn off when tumbling stop
your timer is bad,the cost of a timer is close to a new dryer.
SOURCE: Dryer tumbling but no heat....
Check the following to address this issue.
1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.
2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.
3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
SOURCE: tumble dryer spins, but doesn't heat up
You need an ohm meter to do needed checks. Unplug dryer from power,,, then look for sensors and locate the heat coils. Using the ohm meter, check each device by connecting meter to the posts ( your looking for an open curcuit) Note that when you touch the leads of the ohm meter together, the gage will move? This is closed condition, and if the needle did not move, this is called "open". When you find a sensor or heat coil that reads open, that part is bad.
Now make sure there is not a tripped breaker in the fuse panel of the house,,, because even though the dryer is 220 volt,,, 110 volt runs the tumble motor while the other 110 volt curcuit runs the heat side ( so one will work without the other)
SOURCE: Hoover Condenser Tumble dryer HSC 170 not heating up
The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.
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