.fresh produce is freezing and temp set at 2. what do I need to replace/check

Thermostat is not working. Does the compressor ever shut off?

Hi,

This model has a air baffle unit that the door brake off, WR49X10091 this part has a motorized door for air flow the controls air in from the freezer. When this door brakes off, it will not control the air flow and freeze even eggs. This link it a picture reference for you, I don't control nor sell parts, you can get this part from any part house you select.

I hope this helped

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

There is an electrically activated air dampener in the upper left back side of the refrigerator section which most likely has broken (in the open position), allowing cold air from the freezer to continue to enter the fresh foods section. Replace the dampener assembly.

If the unit seems to be running non stop, you may have a bad cold temp control. If you have ice cream in freezer, it will likely be rock hard, that you need a chisel to scoop. if your ice cream is ok, its likely not the temp control. On your GE, in the fresh food section, do you have a canopy on the ceiling of fridge, and likely covers the whole top back portion of your fridge? If you do, there is a damper door inside, that breaks off its hinge, and stays wide open, allowing cold air from freezer to constantly be pulled into fridge, freezing food. If you do have this canopy, it will need to be replaced, as you cannot reattach the damper to its hinge.

Freezing in cripsersG.E artica:

Models Affected: All 23 25 27 and 29 cubic foot electronic side-by-side refrigerator units with plastic Liners manufactured in 2001 or later. This includes all Profile- (Arctica and Eterna") models Consumers have called with reports of freezing in the Vegetable (middle) pan or the CustomCool M (bottom) pan , frozen water tank or frozen water filter.Freezing in the pans , a frozen water tank or a frozen water filter is caused by excessive airflow from the vents in the tower.

To eliminate these freezing issues , install kit WR49X10045. Follow the instructions included in the kit.






Damper door broken G.E artica:

Affects all 2001 models produced with "M" as the eight letters in the model i.e.: PSS25SGM with serial date code LA4 , MA4 , RA4 , SA4 , TA4 , VA4 , ZA4 & AD4. Freezing happens when damper door breaks leaving the unit with no control over the very cold air entering fresh food compartment from the freezer.

Replace damper door assy , with new damper door kit WR17X11508.

To verify the damper door is broken , remove the light shield and rear light bulb from the top of the refrigerator. Enter the factory diagnostic mode by pushing all four temperature control buttons at the same time. Perform damper motor test (FZ 1 , FF 0). Press any other button i.e. Custom cool or filter reset to start damper test cycle. Shine flashlight through right hand side opening of light assembly to view movement of damper door. To exit test mode (FZ 1 , FF 6). lf damper door assembly needs to be replaced , pull top two shelves out 2 ". Pull rear tower assembly slightly forward with both hands, move to the left and the right to expose the two screws that secure the duct assembly , also remove both screws that secure the duct to the ceiling. Replace with new damper motor assembly WR17X11508.

Iced-over evaporator coils, accompanied by a non-chilled fresh food compartment, happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side got warmer as well.

The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall between compartments which opens when the fresh food side needs cooling. If no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while.

I bough a pair of thermometers at a kitchen store and put one in the freezer compartment and one in the fresh food compartment so that I could occasionally check to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running (ie, was it really necessary to be trying to cool either compartment, or were they already cold enough).

About six months later I had the coil icing problem again. This time the fresh food side seemed cool enough (according to the thermometer as well as the fact that the flapper door would close, indicating that the computer knew to not try to additionally cool the fresh food side).

The thermometer indicated that the temp in the freezer compartment was cold enough, but the system computer continued to run the compressor. So I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Use a website like www.partselect.com to look up a parts diagram for your fridge and see if you can order just the temp sensors. Other websites (www.repairclinic.com and www.appliancepartsworldwide.com) may also be helpful. I have no affiliation with any of the sites I just mentioned - I'm just posting them as resources.

There are three temp sensors in my GE side-by-side model GSS20IEMDWW (two in the freezer and one in the fresh food side). Replacing the temp sensor in the fresh food side was enough to allow the compressor to finally turn off.

For me, the problem manifested with an iced-over evaporator coil inside the freezer compartment. Since the compressor never cycled off (presumably because the temp sensor was providing faulty data about the temp inside the fresh food side, thus causing it to continually attempt to cool), the coils were constantly chilled. Eventually the ice on the coils would block the air flow and the freezer side could no longer freeze

I purchased a pair of inexpensive thermometers from a kitchen store and put one in the freeze and one in the fresh food side so I could occasionally look at the temps to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running - ie, was it really a warm-enough temp for cooling to be required, or was the computer reading faulty sensor data.

Six months later I also needed to replace both temp sensors in the freezer compartment. My refrigerator is about seven years old. I would recommend replacing all of the temp sensors just to rule that out.

http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=GSS20IEMDWW&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=2

Your model may be different, but this will give you an idea of part numbers and relative locations of the parts.

hI back at you. Oklahoma USA here and hot. You having cooler weather there? Im not femilure with your climate but the produce drawer should have an air damper that closes off to prevent freezing. This damper may not be closing or the refg may be set to cut off an air movment fan motor and the control is faulty. If the knob you turn dosnt stop a hum when you turn it all one way or the other after 2 to 6 minutes the fan is running all the time and now yuou look for the air damper. On some models there is a motorized damper. Ice could be holding the damper open not allowing it to "dampen" freezer air off. Look in the refg compartment with the crisper trays removed and look for a hole between the freezer and refrigerator side. Could be round or square or rectangle. work the control ans see if air flow slowes or increases. Inspect with a mirror fro Ice or other blockage of the damper door.
Let em know how this works out.

Hi, Change the controls back to normal settings. Make sure the freezer is getting 0 to 5 above. If the freezer is getting cold enough, try and turn the cold control to 1 and see if the refrigerator shuts off. It sounds like the cold control in not working properly and will need to be replaced. NOTE: The freezer temp has to be right temp or the fresh food side will not work proper.
I hope this helps. Please let me know if I can assist you further.

Vic

check the dooa and see if it (ajar)