How do I test the thermal limiter? - Frigidaire GLGR331A Gas Dryer

Ian, Did not find your particular model, links below may help in changing and testing your thermostat.
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Condenser Dryer Model No DYC 8913B Product Code 31100391
Hoover DYC8913B 80 Thermal Limiter
Dryer Isnt Heating High Limit Thermostat Testing Dryer Troubleshooting...
How to replace thermostat on tumble dryer how to diagnose the fault

Hello Joe, this is Z. That's a great question!

First, error code E66 normally indicates that the thermal limiter circuit is open. Base on the intensity of the issue, it is best to connect with a professional to properly diagnose and repair your dryer. Technician will need to check the inlet or outlet thermal limiter for continuity. If the thermal limiter is open, tech will need to check for evidence of high temperature event and any resulting damage. If no further damage is evident, the thermal limited and retest will more than likely need replacing.

Secondly, if you are getting an error code E68, it usually indicates that one of the keys (buttons) is stuck closed (active). You may enter "Function Test Mode" and perform Key Test to determine which button is at fault. To perform the "Function Test Mode": Press and hold the START and CANCEL button at the same time for 10 seconds. The stuck key should blink. Carefully free the key and perform the test again after proper diagnosis. If button is free but the error code still exists, the electronic control will more than likely need replacing. If you do not have a professional connection, you have the option to visit the manufacturer website to find a service provider in your area. Hope this helps!

Good Afternoon Friend,

I understand that you are trying to test the high limit thermostat, or thermal limiter, on your Frigidaire dryer, model# GLER642A. Typically, this is not a do it yourself job. There are no manuals that will explain how to test the thermal limiter. I suggest contacting your local authorized technician for further assistance. They will be able to diagnose your dryer and be able to better assist. Hope this is helpful.

-Best Regards-
WP

if its the high limit thermostat it will test just like a switch closed it will read very low ohms,open it will read infinity "OL" on some meters

Hi.

If dryer is electric check for lint obstructions, check ventilation, test thermal fuse, thermistor, cycling thermostat and high limit, element and fan.

If dryer is gas check for lint obstructions, check ventilation, test thermal fuse, thermistor, cycling thermostat and high limit, igniter, coils, burner, flame sensor and fan.

There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating. UNPLUG DRYER BEFORE TESTING ANYTHING.
1- power- Test the receptical to make sure you are getting 220 volts. To do this you need and voltage tester. Both legs should pull 110 and together 220. If one leg is not pulling any power than your breaker is half tripped. Reset breaker to cure your problem. If problem persist it is in the breaker or receptical.
2- cord- To test this unplug dryer. Take the panel covering the cord connections off. Remove cord entirely from dryer. Test each leg for continuity. If any are not showing cont than replace cord.
3- Themal fuse- To test this remove access back access panel on some front panel. By the blower housing there is a fuse white thin sliver or round fuse with 2 wires going to it. The one with 4 wires is your low limit cycling thermistat. The thermal fuse is near that. Disconnect the 2 wires and check fuse for continuity. If meter shows cont fuse it good. If not replace fuse.
4- Hi Limit Thermistat- test same way as thermal fuse. On the heating element housing at the bottom are 3 wires running to a fuse. Test the left and right. The bottom is attached to one of the sides.
5- Thermal Cutoff- Test same way as thermal fuse. This fuse is near the top of the heating elemnt above the Hi Limit. 2 wires with usually plastic covers on them.
6- Heating Element- Below high limit 2 wires. Test for continuity.
If all these fuses are good than you may need to call a technician. The motor may not be getting to the right rpm to activate the senfrigrial switch in the moter. Timer or control board may be out.
7- Motor- If

there are actually 3 plus a thermal fuse,1 is on the heater element box that the hi limit,then the2nd one is above the hi limit on the duct about a foot up,then the 3rd thermal and thermal fuse is on the back side of the blower wheel housing,you almost need to remove the blower wheel and the back section of the housing to examine.test these 2

Yes, but there are several thermal limiters, they should reset when the unit cools, so likely that is not what is happening.... Forcefully turn the breaker FULLY off, and then back on, and test again...

The thermal limiters are located along the air flow path, typically downstream of your burner, the purpose is to prevent overheating and fire. These limiters stop the HEATING element and not the drum motor...

Not funny at all, I suspect. It sounds like the problem originated due to a faulty high limit thermostat or a partially burnt heating element. I would replace the thermal fuse and the high limit thermostat. These two components can be purchased as a set. Also check the heating element. It can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity indicates a bad component. The thermal fuse is normally attached to or near the exhaust duct and the high limit thermostat is attached to the internal ductwork. The thermal fuse can be tested in the same manner. I will attach a photo of a high limit thermostat and thermal fuse for reference. Sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.

If the dryer won't heat and the heating element is good, then check the thermal fuse and the high limit thermostat. The thermal fuse is located just inside the rear of the dryer and is mounted on the exhaust duct. Test it for continuity using a multimeter. A lack of continuity indicates a blown thermal fuse. '
The high limit thermostat is a small round, black device mounted on a metal plate and attached to the internal ductwork with two screws. It can be tested for continuity. It should have none. If it has continuity it is faulty. I am attaching a photo of the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat for reference. Hope this helped and best wishes.