To check or add oil to the tractor ,Internal Reservoir Housing (IRH) type transmission, it may be necessary to remove the transaxle from the vehicle in order to access the black cap located under the pulley & fan (on drive shaft).
After placing the transaxle on a level surface remove the fan & pulley and pry open the black cap . Oil level should be maintained at 20~25 mm (3/4”~1”) below the lip of (black cap) port, when oil temperature is at room temperature (20C or 68 F). Oil level is at approx. the same level as the shelf (within port) for supporting magnet.
While reinstalling the fan & pulley on the drive shaft be sure to place all components in the same order as they were removed.
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Read all the instructions before you even get up off your computer chair. Then read them again, slowly. Then print them and take them with you to the garage.
OK, Here goes:
Refer to pictures below.
Step 00. Put a couple of frosties (Bud, Busch, or Molson Canadian) in the fridge. Or stick them into a snow bank (applicable to Molson only).
Step 0. Jack up the tractor and secure properly on jack stands.
Step 1. Take the wheels off
Step 2. Take the washers & spacers off.
Step 3. Take the belt off, the belt retainer bar, and the pulley & fan off. Reason for the fan, is so you don't break it while handling the transmisson - the blades are quite fragile: I broke 2 blades off the fan, by not doing this while taking my tranny off.
Step 4. Unbolt the torque brackets off the frame. I think there are 2 of them - one on either side. I can't remember if I took them right off, or just unbolted one end (either the frame end, or the tranny end)
Step 5. Decouple the fwd/rev actuator link by removing the spring clip & washer, and removing the pin from the lever
Step 6. Decouple the brake actuator link by removing the spring clip & washer, and removing the pin from the lever
Step 7. Decouple the free-wheeling actuator link by removing the spring clip & washer, and removing the pin from the lever. Then pull the lever all the way out the back, as far as it will go, so it's out of the way
Step 8. Take a break & crack one of the frosties, because the next step, you'll be dropping the tranny.
Step 9. Secure a jack (a hydraulic one works best) under the tranny - use a block of wood between the tranny and the jack. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the tranny onto the frame. Slowly lower the tranny with the jack, while observing for interferences - which you obviously want to clear so you don't break anything.
Once the tranny is out, use a paint brush, and low-pressure air to blow all the dirt off it, before you open any internal cavities. If "one speck" of dirt, or one "blade of grass" gets in the tranny - you're screwed! Wipe the area around the fill plug with a rag, to get all the sticky dirt off.
Take the filler plug out, and stick your (clean) finger in the hole. The oil level should be right near the top. Make a mental note if that's not the case. Invert the tranny to drain out the oil. Put the fill plug back in. Rotate the tranny around to get all the oil out of all the nooks and crannies. Take the plug out, and invert the tranny again to get the rest of the oil out.
Set it down, right side up, and measure the amount of oil you took out.
Replace the same amount of oil that you took out, with a good quality product. If your "finger dip-stick test" showed you were low, then obviously you should be able to get more oil in than you get out. The level should be almost right to the top, but not too full so that if you put the plug back in, that oil will leak out.
If you put in less than you took out and the tranny is full, then obviously you didn't refill all the nooks and crannies. Put the plug in, and twist and rotate the tranny around. Then set it back down, and top it off again.
I did this, and was able to get the same amount of oil back in.
To reinstall the tranny, reverse the 10 steps above. Grease all the hardware while you're at it.
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