My receiver is 5 years old, it has just started to make clicking noises at different times and at different volume levels. It could be 10 minutes or 30 minutes etc, it is the same noise that is made when the amp is turned on. I have not lost any sound when this happens and sometimes I get a small power noise in my front speakers, i have checked all connections. I have been looking around for a new sony 5.1 receiver but the STR-DG510 is the only receiver in a 60 mile radius of my town and does not have all the connections the 675 has. Maybe because it is $200 cheaper then mine was. Thanks for and help with the clicking noise.
Hello, headbanger here again. I have fixed the amp myself with 3 relays from an electronics company, the number on the relays can be seen by taking the cover off. The three speaker relays are at the back of the circuit board, there is a fourth relay for the power switch but it is at the front of the board. I did replace all three instead of the bad one as it was only $2.68 for each relay. The most important thing is the pin spacing on the relays, there are different relays that do the same purpose that have different pin postion, they will not fit into postion as the pins are only long enough to fit exact.I live in Canada and a company RAE Industrial Electronics Limited at Burnside Industrial Park in Dartmouth, Nova Scotia ... Their phone # (902) - 468 - 1238 ... Fax 902-468-5887 ordered them in. The part number on the receipt is ALA2F12 - RELAY,DPST, 3A 12VDC .. The sales order number on the receipt is 43771-2. Well that's about all the info i have, hope it might help with someone else. Paying $10 to fix my amp was well worth it, having a friend at work with electronics experience helps alot too. He did all the leg work for me to find them, bought him a dinner at work for his effort. My dishes at home are rattling again. OYEAH.
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Does it do it on start up of the compressor? Sounds like the springs that hold the rotor inside the compressor are getting weak and letting the rotor touch the side of the compressor..... till it comes up to speed and levels out.... There is nothing that you can do except replace the compressor.... I would call the dealer or who ever you purchased it from and check if the compressor is still under Warranty.... If may last a long time but it could lock up tommorow too you never know...... Hope this sheds some light on the problem...
Very likely the bearings in the motor have begun to fail. You can replace the motor, but for a 15 year old DW, sometimes it makes better sense to just buy a new one. Depends on the features the old DW has, vs new, vs motor replacement cost.
No ,very possible it is due to expansion. There is a covering on the return pipe called armour flex. this armourflex stops ice migration inside the walls of the fridge. If it breaks away, the ice expands around the pipe and and pushes on the insulation foam which then cracks and makes those loud noises. Have heard this noise many times on a particular brand of fridge to a point where some customers have dived for the floor thinking they are being shot at. Repairing that problem is a biggish repair and not cheap. You will find if it is the compressor it normally only happens at either start up or switch off (a clattering sound)
I own the same unit (since 2001) & have had no problems. I would get it looked at & see what the issue is & what it would cost to fix. Would it be worthwhile? Well you'd have to ask yourself how much $$ you'd be willing to spend on a replacement vs repairing this unit & based on how much you'd be willing to spend, would the specs on a replacement unit measure up. You'd have to ignore things like HDMI inputs to keep it apples to apples.
I've owned various Sony components for a long time. I only had to get one unit fixed one time (a CD player that my one year old decided to do a chin-up on :( ). The unit was 7 years old at the time and my son is now 12!!. the unit still functions flawlessly since being repaired. Sony builds their stuff to last, even after beiung abused.
It's hard to diagnose without a model, but, given the problem I would say it is a 42LC7.
If it is, then, it needs a modification in the main PCB. We used to jumper coils at first, now we have to change the main PCB.
It's less than a year old, it's under warranty.
For a servicer in your area that makes house calls:
Contact LG at:
If you have any questions, reply to this post and I will respond.