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1.4 petrol ,now be carefull here as if you try to undo the front pulley then bang goes ther engine ,its on a taper with no keyway .What you need is a special tool that locks the flywheel by means of teeth that go in where the startermotor is .Now what i do as iam not buying tools for every make and model of vehicle i work on is to drill a 8.5 mm hole in line with the ring gear ,then tap this to 10mm ,then screw a bolt with a nut on the bolt into this hole ,the bolt has a point ground onto the end ,then when this engages the flywheel ringear i screw the nut up to touch the bell housing and just pinch it .then and only then can you undo the front pulley bolt .Look in a haynes manual for the timing marks and then align them up and then screw the bolt in to lock the crank as described or some white paint on the cam gear to mark it in situ because as the cranks locked up it cannot move so the only gear that needs timing is the cam ,spot of white paint on gear and housing facing is goiod enough .
If you need to tap a hole and do not have a drill tap chart and it is not absolutely critical that the threads are perfect, this is a quick way to determine what size hole to drill. Take a nut of the same size and thread pitch you want to tap. A drill bit that fits through the nut with just a bit of play will give you a close enough hole to tap. If the thread is metric an easy rule of thumb is to take the bolt size, deduct the thread pitch and another 0.1%, and that is your tapping drill size. eg. M 10 pitch is 1.5 mm, deduct this gives 8.5 mm, less another 0.1% gives 8.4mm, the closest tapping size for M 10 threads.
That's a tough question... If the bolts are the ones that belong there, generally they are grade 8 hardware which is very hard compared to a standard fastener. If you need to save the flywheel, I'd try hammering a wrong (but close) size 6 point socket on and then try to turn it out. You might also try and find a very good quality carbide drill bit and drill into the center, then use larger drill bits 'till the head can be removed. Once tension is off the bolt shaft and the flywheel is out of the way you may be able to just turn the remainder out of the crank flange with a reverse drill, e-z out or just pliers..
If all of the mounting bolts are definitly removed, then you'll want to make sure the batt (-) cable is disconnected, then either use your belts/pulleys or a socket on the Crankshaft main bolt to carefully rotate the motor (same rotation as normal) & listen for any binding & this should make sure the teeth on the flywheel/starter ring have disengaged from the starter teeth. With todays cars, tight fit is the standard & if the solenoid is holding the bendix forward as if starting, this should help to release it or loosen the bind. Hopefully you don't have a flywheel problem. If after rotating the engine, you can't get it loose, tap the end of the starter just a hair at an angle to loosen & then again from the oppsite angle to free up the starter from the mounting area. It does have to come out fairly straight due to the mounting flange but hopefully the taps will free it up if it is stuck.
Never a bad idea to look at the new part, or one at a parts store that is identical to better understand the exact fit.
Two ways... once the caliper is removed.
1st, but this is a little dangerous, put a piece of wood where the pads would go and use compressed air where the brake line banjo fitting goes. The piston will come out like a cannon ball.
2nd, messy but safer, i got a bolt that threads into the brake line banjo fitting hole. drilled a small hole through the length of it in the center, and then drill and tap to allow a grease fitting to go into the top of the bolt, thread this into the caliper, and pump grease into the caliper which will force the piston out slowely.
First of all, put penetrating oil on it, and let it soak. Tapping distributes the penetrant better.
If there is still a shoulder of the bolt exposed, you may be able to get it started moving with a small pipe wrench. A hammer helps the pipe wrench. If there is more room, use the largest pipe wrench that you can fit on it.
There are also grippers available (Sears) that work on rounded nuts, this may work.
The next option would be to drill the bolt and use an ease-out to remove it.
After this would be to drill the entire bolt out and install a heli-coil so that an new bolt can be installed.
Best regards. Hope this helps. --W/D-- please feel free to rate this solution! Thanx!
The simplest solution is to tap the hole up to the next size bolt. You'll need a small tap & die set, a drill, and the drill bit recommended for that size bolt -- it'll be stamped on the tap.
To accommodate the larger bolt you may have to drill out the holes through which the new bolts are installed -- maybe not.
On your flywheel there should be 2 holes threaded on the top area & the retaining nut in the centre.
remove the centre nut completely, then get a flat piece of steel bar (about 6" long x 1/2" thick x 11/2" wide) drill 2 holes (clearance holes) at the same distance as the ones on the flywheel.
then drill one in the centre about 1/4" dia.
Get two bolts that will fit into the 2 threaded holes & pass then through your newly drilled bar.
Place a ball bearing on the centre hole & tighten your 2 bolts inwards.
When they both start to get tight tap the flywheel with a hammer & tighten futher on the bolts.
The flywheel should now come loose.
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