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Re: Oven top heating element not working
For safety Reasons you should cut off the power at the Circuit breaker. Test the oven to see if you can turn it on before working on it.
Nothing tough about removing the element. Open the door and remove the racks to give yourself room.
Where the element connects to the wall, remove the fasteners, and pull the element out.
To test the element. Use a Volt ohm Meter, and measure for resistance from terminal to Terminal. you should see at least 10 ohms. Check from Terminal to the metal of the elements to see if the element is grounded to the casing. You should not read resistance here, it should read infinite.
You can get your parts at www.repairclinic.com
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I have a DACOR double electric oven model ECD230SCH. the top oven lower element went out 1 and 1/2 years ago, but the top element broiler works. Yesterday the bottom oven did the same thing- bottom element not working along with convection. Pulled off doors and cut breaker. Checked thermal switch on top off oven- closed good. Pull out element and Ohm'ed out- good. Now pulled over and out oven top panel to get to the control boards. Found a nice set of schematics for the over control boards and electronics. Sat down and pin-pointed both relays that supply power to upper and lower oven "lower" heating elements. these are on 2 different boards- upper over relays on bigger board on the left with the transformer. Lower oven on the right smaller board. Hardest pain in the rear was just getting the little plastic stand offs to push back through the board to get it off. Finally got it off and inspected board. Low and behold the relay I pin-pointed had a burn/open connection on the solder joint. Re-soldered tested oven and lower oven lower heat element works now! Went to the next board and got that off and same exact problem on the rely for the top oven lower element. Re-solder and test- good!! Put everything together and ran over to 350 on top and lower and back to normal. Wife very happy she did not have to pay a repair man big bucks to swap out the control boards- would have had to replace both.
I have a degree in electronic technology so as a technician for many years did low and high voltage component level repairs. But pretty easy and you can visually see the open solder joint on the back of the board at the relay leg.
Jim B Roseville, CA.
Check online for your oven and it might show different problems with that type. Also, my oven did that and it was just the heating element on the bottom. The top one was working okay. I looked on Amazon and found the right one by range model #. It only costs about 20.00 and easy to install. If that isn't the problem, it might be the wiring in the back. If that's the case I would call someone.
Only two possible causes. The oven element is faulty or the oven thermostat controller is faulty. Probably the first thing to do is test the oven element and check the resistance. If the element is okay then the oven thermostat will need replacing.
fan oven element video.1, If the fan motor . in the
back of the oven is going round and the temperature light is on (normally
little red light), but there is no heat then you will probably need a new oven
element, these are generally very easy to fit and readily available from our
website these can be tested with a electric meter. To gain access to the element .you will
have to remove the back plate from inside the oven. Once removed you will see
the fan and element,. if you
look closely at the element .you will
probably see a small hole burnt in it where it has blown. Sometimes however
there is no evidence of a fault but the elementis open circuit ie:
broken inside the element casing, either way it will need replacing. Some
elements will are fixed from inside the oven and some are held in place by nuts
from the rear of the machine. 2, If your fan oven is getting warm but takes a very
long time to cook or is burning the food more on one side than the other, then
you need to check if your oven fan motoris working you will
see the blade turning fast if it is ok. if the element is heating but the fan motoris not blowing the heat into the oven then
you need To replace the oven fan motoris a little more
expensive and a bit more involved. 3. If you have the opposite problem ie: your oven is over heating
and burning everything then you will need to replace your oven thermostat 4, A quite common and easily overlooked answer is if your oven
is not working at all ie: no heat and no fan then the chances are that someone
has put the oven timerinto AUTO mode,
simply put oven back to MANUAL mode and all should be working again. For all Free appliance repair videos visit our VIDEO
The power to the fan and thermostat is the fault. You will need to trace wiring from these elements to power source and I suspect that where the power cord meets the oven is where you'll find the cause.
Usually, when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake element is burned out. The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.
When the food you're baking is done on top but not on the bottom--or when baking just takes far too long to finish--the bake element may be burned out.
You may get fooled into thinking it's working, because the oven is hot inside. But many electric ovens use the broil element, too, during the preheat and bake cycles. So the food may be getting heated only by the broil element, which causes poor baking results.
If the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem. Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system to locate the defective wire or component.
When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, it could be one of several different things. First check to see if the thermostat sensing bulb has come loose from its holder. It could be lying on the floor of the oven or resting on the heating element. This would cause the oven to not heat correctly.
If the thermostat bulb is not dislodged, it's likely that the thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective.
Electronic ovens with a digital display use a sensor to monitor oven temperature. To solve temperature problems for these models, you may need to replace the sensor. On some digital-display models, you can calibrate the temperature using the key pad. See your operator's manual for details.
Ovens without a digital display often use a mechanical system for controlling temperature. On many of these units, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat.
If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.
remove back panel inside oven and element will be exposed. this element is probably faulty and you can often see the damage
to replace, take the outer rear panel off and element fixings are in view - easy job usually
I replaced the relay board for the top oven (the one with the transformer) and it works properly now. My issue was only for the top oven so you probably have to replace both relay boards since both ovens have only the top element working.
318022002 is the part number for the relay board with transformer 318022001 is the part number for the relay board without transformer
Yes the one without the transformer is more expensive for some reason.
The boards are on the top of the oven, I was able to pull out the oven about 75% of the way out of the cabinet and easily get to the boards. Just unplugged the connections and plugged them into the new board.
To get the oven out there are two small screws that go into brackets inside the top oven door. Highly recommend taking the doors off the oven to pull it out, much easier to work with.
NOTE: On my old board I noticed one solder joint that was burned out and I since I already had the new board I just replaced but you might want to check that first and see if just a solder fix gets you working again before you spend $$ on a new board.