The red "ON" light has fallen inside the unit. There appears to be no access from the top or below. Can I safely get inside the unit and if so, how?

Red light will stay on until burner temperature is down to a safe level.

Ok Hello there.

Number 1)
There are several types of this 8430 but all will be similar . For the complete set of machines if you REALLY need the EXACT one.go here http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?searchTerm=JED8430&siteCd=JA_EN_US&userType=Servicer#installation_instructions

Number 2)
PLEASE don't 'fiddle about' with the cooker if you don't know about electrics. There are VERY high powerand DANGEROUS electric cables in there ! This is Nothing like a low power Stereo or TV BE CAREFUL !!!!

Number 3)
I am not familiar with this top but it seems from the diagrams that it just drops in to a base unit that contains the fan unit.somehow. I don't see any screws in the surface of the top so TURN OFF THE POWER COMPLETELY take out by lifting the edges ; the whole thing and work on it from underneath to access the electrics..

These diagrams below will show you all you need to do the job. READ THEM THOROUGHLY BEFORE you start.

PLEASE BE CAREFUL with Electrical wiring. !!! I cant stress enough

Owners Guide
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%208111P415-60.pdf

Parts list and circuit diagram (if your switch is playing up.this will help)
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20JED8430ADB.pdf


Installation
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Installation%20Instructions%20-%208101P419-60.pdf

Its an error must be the blower motor..one blower will blow air to cool tge chamber. try to open the unit & look inside

I assume you are talking about general pilot light which illuminates when you turn any of the four hotplates on. This light gets its power supply from the hotplate contollers. The controllers generally have a pilot light circuit which links all 4 controllers to the pilot light. I haven't seen this problem before. Either a small amount of power is escaping across the pilot light contacts inside the controller or the pilot light is getting a feedback from another source/fault in the cooktop. The only solution is to dismantle the cooktop and use a voltmeter or similar to trace the fault. Unless you understand how the problem occurs it's probably best to call a repairman.

Center burner won't light: If there is a bright spark (check all ignitor points at night with the lights out and look for consistent brightness of the sparks) then it's likely that the burner slots are dirty or the air/gas mix is wrong. If you can light with a match, but the spark won't light, then go for cleaning the entire burner assembly thoroughly with a brass bristle brush (available at most automotive stores). The proper air/gas mix has to flow over the spark to ignite. Weak spark, improper air/gas or misdirected gas flow that misses the spark can all cause this issue.

RR burner lights only on low setting. Again, check the air gas mix and clean all parts. Something like a small spider web inside the air mix chamber (area between the orifice and the burner can cause this and is difficult to see. Disassemble, clean thoroughly, reassemble and test. Extra low simmer burners (two on the left side) use their own control module with electric gas valves and variable electric control switches. The burner works on low, so these are not likely the problem.

Most folks want to find a bad part, and that can happen, but stove tops get dirty and cleaning usually helps. If not, you have a clean top to work on.

The indicator lens and/or the retainer are either broken or the retainer is missing. It's best to replace these as they are not expensive. When the top is off while cleaning is an perfect time to replace the lens.

The red light is on as a safety to let you know the surface is hot. When the light goes out the surface will be safe to touch with out getting a bad burn.

Please rate 4 thumbs for the free answer.

Does the burner attempt to re-ignite after it goes out? If so, it's probably the therocouple. If not, it could be the burner valve. Be sure the caps and rings are correctly seated on the burners and be sure to firmly press the burner knob down to start the flame.

try to use black to black: white to red: and green and white to ground.
you may not have a 240 volt supply to this unit. most of the time when you have these color wires that would tell me that it only has 120 volts of power.
you can try to wire it up as described, but it may not heat enough with just 120 volts.
what type of cook top did you replace, a gas unit and now your changing it to an electric one?
if so, then you will have to replace the wiring inside the wall with the proper size wiring to handle the extra current from an electric unit.

Hold your finger or thumb on the red light for a few seconds, and you will hear three beeps. This tells you that the lock is off. If the light is not on, do the same and there will be three beeps, and the light will come on, telling you that the lock is back on.

unplug unit allow to dry ..12 to 24 hours,,or cut breaker to stove,,,try again..if still lite..you ground out,,you have to take a look at light circuit for ground short