Rotor seems to be frozen on to spindle; all literature for the HL-4 rotor indicates that the rotor is floating (ie is not attached with any screw or other fastener). Have tried pulling using balance gear puller with no luck. I need to condition new brushes, and the manual calls for running the unit with no rotor for 30 minutes 2000 rpm. The manual states that conditioning the brushes with the rotor installed can cause damage to the brushes and armature.

I'm assuming you mean a brake rotor. I'm not too familiar with your vehicle, but brakes are brakes. First, check to make sure there are no screws holding the rotor to the spindle. They would be located between the wheel lugs. If there are none present, it is probably corroded. In which case, spray the mating area of the rotor and spindle with penetrating oil, let it sit a few minutes and strike the rotor from the back side with a hammer evenly around the rotor to allow it to be removed without binding on the spindle. This is done after the brake caliper is removed, of course. Do not let the caliper hang on the rubber hose. Tie it up to prevent damaging the hose.

just remove the spindle as it slows the speed of your engine thus making it to consume a lot of fuel over a short distance

E-05 is an error for the rotor distancing problem. Using a small philips screwdriver remove the screws on the electronic faceplate. DO NOT PULL THE PLATE OFF. It will be attached by a thin ribbon cable that is easily torn, let it dangel. Underneath that, up where the spindel travels through, you should see the rotor (small round disc on the spindle) the stator (where the ribbon cable goes), and a sleeve. There should be very little gap between the rotor and stator. The way to fix this is with the screw to the very left, black piece, where the spindle exits towards the measuring surfaces. There is a little flat-head set screw that hold a spring loaded sleeve. Loosen that screw a bit and the sleeve should snap out and press everything together. Then, while it is still loose, use a second small flat head and wedge a little gap between the sleeve and the rotor, not much. Tighten the set screw back down. The gap needs to be as tight as it can while still allowing the rotor to spin when the thimble is turned. Once that is achieved, close it all up.

To remove the front disc brakes , you must remove the break caliber assembly . Keep in mind that on some brake calipers a special Torx Drive T40 or T45 must be used to remove the caliber bolts from the spindle assembly . Also , Allen (Hex) bolts are sometimes used . Be sure you have the right tools .
1. Properly block both rear wheels at the front in the back of each wheel.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels one turn on each nut.
3.Jack up and support the front of the car on Jack stands with the wheels one to 2in. off the ground.
4. Remove the two bolts on the inside of the caliber the secure it to the spindle .
5.Once the bolts have been removed the caliber should pull straight away from the rotor and spindle assembly .
6.Remove your old brake pads , clean the assembly , properly lubricate the moving parts as necessary , especially the floating sleeve as the assembly is called a floating caliber which means half of the Caliper is bolted to the spindle (inner) but the other half floats (outer).
7.Use a large see clamp centered between the caliper piston and caliper housing to push the piston all the way back into the caliber cylinder by turing (1 turn at a time) the screw until the piston is flush with the caliber face .
8. Install your new brake pads .
9. use the reverse procedure to assemble everything back together. Good luck and be safe....

Harold, Have you tried looking from the top? Maybe you can put a rod into the spindle from the top and give it a tap. Al Kupchella

Call Encompass Parts tell them what you have and what you need.
1-800-638-3328

Removing: Loosen lug nuts (7/8") and spindle nut (36mm). Lift truck. Remove lug nuts, spindle nut, and wheel. Remove 2 bolts (3/8" allen) holding calipers on. Hold the calipers up with a bungee cord. I attached it to the sheet metal of the fender. Remove 4 bolts (15mm) from rear of hubs. Once these bolts are removed you can move the shield that is in-between the hub and the axle(I think). You are moving it to get access to the allen bolt that holds the ABS sensor on. Once you move the shield then you can look through the top of the rotor through the slots and see the sensor line and bolt. I don't remember what size allen this one took. You do need a long allen wrench though. Disconnect sensing line from hub. Now the rotor is ready to come off. I had to use a pry bar to remove this gently working each side until it popped off. Once the rotor is removed, you need to hammer out the lug bolts. Then you have to tap the rotor away from the hub. This took a little work. Then check each of the lug bolts by screwing the lug nuts on them. They should go all the way down by hand. If they don't - go buy new bolts $2 a piece. Installing: Position new rotor on hub. Get some dry ice from your local grocery store and freeze the bolts for about 10 minutes. Pull one bolt out of the ice at a time and install on the rotor and tighten the bolt with the lug nut. I put the nuts on upside down and used a 7/8" wrench and mallet to tap on the wrench to get these as tight as possible. You also have to tap on the head of the bolt and repeat the wrench tapping. Do this for each bolt pulling one out of the ice at a time. You do not have to get the rotor and hub completely together but get it as close together as possible. Once all of the lug bolts are in it is time to put the rotor on the truck. Ensure the shield is on the spindle and install the rotor, again, this takes some work. Once the rotor is on, connect the ABS sensing line. Line up the shield and install 4 bolts to rear of hub. You can align these by moving the hub, not the rotor. Install the caliper, remember to put brake grease on these 2 bolts. You may have to compress the caliper slightly. To do this remove the brake pad that has the circular part of the caliper touching it. Open the brake fill cap on the master cylinder. Use a C-clamp to compress the circular part. Reinstall the brake pad and brake fill cap. Install the caliper. Install the wheel and tighten lug nuts. I used a cheater bar on my tire iron and ensured that the lug bolts were flush with the head of the lug nuts. Then I removed the wheel to verify that the gap between the rotor and the hub was gone. Reinstall wheel, tighten lug nuts, and tighten spindle nut. Once both brakes have been replaced, start up the truck and pump the brakes several times till you feel some tension when pressing them.

remove caliper, caliper bracket it may or may not have a screw that holds it to the hub pretty easy actually

hope2help

Hello, hope this info helps...(subytech1)...



REMOVAL
15-INCH TYPE

1. Lift-up the vehicle, and remove the front wheels.

1. Remove the caliper body and the support from housing, and suspend it from strut using a wire.

1. Remove the disc rotor. NOTE: If the disc rotor seizes up within hub, drive the disc rotor out by pushing with an 8 mm bolt in holes B on the rotor.
2. Clean mud and foreign particles from the caliper body assembly and the support. 16-INCH TYPE Refer to 15-inch type. 17-INCH TYPE Refer to 15-inch type.

INSTALLATION

1. Install the disc rotor.
2. Install the caliper body and the support to housing. Tightening torque: 80 Nm (8.2 kgf-m, 59 ft. lbs.)
3. Install the front wheels.

Your Accord has what is called "Trapped Rotors". They actually fit behind the hub. The procedure to remove them is not complicated, but it is time consuming.
Here is how I do it:
1) Remove axle retaining nut.
2) Remove brake caliper and bracket.
3) Remove lower ball joint retaining nut and use pickle fork to loosen spindle from lower ball joint.
4) Remove axle from hub.
5) On the back of the spindle, remove four bolts that attach hub/bearing to spindle.
6) Use slide hammer to remove rotor/hub assembly.
7) Remove 4 bolts attaching rotor to hub.
8) While it is a snug fit, the hub bearing does slide through center of rotor to remove it.
Installation is in reverse order.
A bad bearing usually makes a growling noise while driving.