Pilot light will ignite but not light the burner

the pilot light serves to purposes. it is the source of ignition for the main burner and is a safety device that detects wether there is a flame or not. if the pilot light stays on when you stop pressing the pilot light button then you need to turn the knob to the on position to light the main burner. the pilot light is not the on position. if the pilot light goes out when you stop pressing the pilot light button then the thermocouple or flame sensor needs replacing. good luck

A defective thermocouple would be my guess. If it is defective, the supply of gas to the pilot will stop as would the supply to the burner.

• I'm going to assume your fireplace has a pilot light.
  
• Follow the little holes in the burner that lead to the pilot light.
• Make sure the pilot flame is pointing directly at the closest burner hole. (adjust if necessary).
• Often, you will need to sprinkle a layer of "glowing embers" in this area. The embers will help the gas travel to the pilot light and ignite.
• Always start your propane appliance on "High" never "Low". Cold propane likes to drop to the bottom of the firebox and accumulate until it reaches the pilot (this is called delayed ignition). Keeping it on "high" will help the fuel travel over to the pilot without buildup.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
f there is no heat, check the electrical service panel for a burned fuse or tripped breaker. Relight the pilot light (see below). If there is not enough heat, adjust the burner air shutter (see below); and clean the burner ports (see below).
If the pilot light does not light or does not stay lit, clean the pilot orifice carefully with a toothpick, test the thermocouple and replace it if it is faulty (see below).
If the flame flickers, adjust the pilot (see below).
If there is an exploding sound when the burner ignites, adjust the pilot to a higher setting and clean the pilot orifice and the burner ports.
If the burner takes more than a few seconds to ignite, clean the pilot orifice and adjust the pilot light.
If the burner flame is uneven, clean the burner ports. If the burner flame is very yellow, clean the burner; open vents in the furnace room to provide more air; adjust the burner air shutter.
If the furnace makes a rumbling noise when the burners are off, clean the burner and adjust the burner air shutter.
If the air is too dry, wash or replace the evaporator pad if you have a humidifier; test the humidistat; and adjust the water-level float to raise the water level.
If some rooms are too cool and others too warm, the distribution system may require balancing. Refer to the Forced-Air Distribution Fix-It Guide .

Ok you did not mention if your oven or stive had pilot lights or igniters. Given you asked the question how too turn it back on I have to assume it does not have electronic igniters. You need to light the pilot lights. There are 2 in top that are between each of the 2 burner sets. If you can not gain access to the pilot light by lifting the top of the stove up you can use a fire starter type lighter and re-light them. Sometimes they will self light if you just use a match on the burners.
As for the oven you can gain access 2 ways to the pilot light. One is to unlatch and remove the oven lower inside panel. The pilot light will be near the burner head. Just light it. The other is to remove the broiler drawer and reach way back in there to light the pilot light.


Again if you have igniter ignition all you have to do is turn on a burner or the oven. Good Luck.

There will be a web or bug or debris in the pllot asssembly /rail that blocks the path of the transition to main burner or ignition of pilot assembly itself, when it does ignite, theres too much gas built up in the pilot ignitor area and it explodes, clean the orifices in the pilot asssemblt / and or the pilot rail or main burners orifices at the pilot area.

A few years back I helped a neighbor with this same problem in a forced air, gas fired, "horizontal" furnace in his attic.

After having him cycle the thermostat a couple dozen times while I watched through the opening in the side of the furnace, I finally figured out what was happening.

First, there were about 6 cast iron burners [about 14 inches long with two rows of gas holes along the length]. These burners were parallel to each other and oriented perpendicular to the long axis of the furnace.

The gas was fed to the ends of the burners with a pipe manifold. The standing pilot light was at the center between burners 3 and 4. Due to the spacing distance between the burners, the pilot light was too far from even burners 3 and 4, the flame could not "jump" to ignite them, or any of the other burners. The manufacturer had installed a thin sheet metal "tent" which ran from the gas entrance end of burner 1 to burner 6, and was about 2 inches above the burner, AND the pilot light.

The standing pilot was on all the time. When the gas control valve turned on, gas began to come out of all the burners at the same time. Naturally it came out of the gas supply manifold ends of all the burners.

The "tent" captured that gas coming from the burners and "filled" up to over the pilot light which ignited the gas at that point, and the flame would propagate along the tent to ignite the gas coming out of all of the burners.

In my neighbors case, the tent had somehow become dislodged so that it did not cover all of the burner ends. For those burners which it did cover [including the pilot light] it caused the burners to light properly.

For those burners who's ends were not covered, and who's gas could not be captured, they would NOT ignite simultaneously with the others.

As these burners WERE feeding gas into the combustion chamber, the gas "envelope" would spread until it reached the nearest flame ignition source, at which time the entire "bubble" of gas would ignite with a minor boom [actually a low energy explosion]. Flame would momentarily shoot out of the burner chamber opening, and from that point the furnace would operate normally until the next restart cycle.

Although there could be several causes, I suspect that the symptoms you describe are the result of DELAYED IGNITION of some or all of the main burners.

IF this is the problem, then the solution is to clean all the burners [including the burner outlet holes in the ignition ends of the burners], clean out the burner compartment, AND properly adjust the orientation of whatever system [you have to evaluate how it works from analysis of YOUR furnace] your furnace has to ensure all burners ignite as close to the same time as possible.

When operating properly, the ignition should be a smooth transition, burner by burner, from the pilot to the farthest burners. In other words. the ignition will "flow" from the pilot outward to each adjacent burner until the farthermost ends ignite last. This usually doesn't take more than one or two seconds at the most.

Unless you are an experienced handyman, and understand this analysis and instructions, I strongly suggest that you engage the services of a professional furnace technician.

try cleaning the pilot oriffice it sounds like the flame is weak

i had this trouble with a different fryer. We had lpg instead of natural gas. check youre using the correct gas.