Model AW08ECB7 Samsung air conditioner. In attempting to drill a hole in the frame to allow the water to drain, I punctured the refrigerant line and all the coolant blew out. Can it be repair or do I have an eighty pound paper weight now?
John Dowsing
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447 Answers
Re:
Modern window units intentionally do not allow the water to drain directly, they want the fan blade to sling the water on to the condensor (the coil that is outside) to aid in cooling actually helps the unit cool better in high outside temps, it also evaporates it this way, depending on where the hole was drilled it may be able to be repaired, if it was just a copper tube it will be less expensive than replacing the whole coil. Since its a relative inexpensive unit anyway the labor and freon may be more than its worth. Lesson learned dont drill a hole in the base it lowers it's efficiency and can lead to a punctured freon line.
Having used window units most of my life, this was a surprise to me--the old ones always drip, drip, dripped to the ground below, passively watering the weeds beneath. ;) When I noticed this unit slinging water, I was concerned I had installed it incorrectly. Thanks for inadvertently assuring me that was not the case!Having used window units most of my life, this was a surprise to me--the old ones always drip, drip, dripped to the ground below, passively watering the weeds beneath. ;) When I noticed this unit slinging water, I was concerned I had installed it incorrectly. Thanks for inadvertently assuring me that was not the case!
Okay, Well for whatever reason the water is not being slug, or there is too much water to be slung or it isn't evaporating. I had considered drilling the hole like the other gentleman did, but I'm glad I didn't. How do I fix the slinging mechanism? You're saying the bottom of the fan dips into the condensation reservoir and should be wet? My fan blade is never wet..Okay, Well for whatever reason the water is not being slug, or there is too much water to be slung or it isn't evaporating. I had considered drilling the hole like the other gentleman did, but I'm glad I didn't. How do I fix the slinging mechanism? You're saying the bottom of the fan dips into the condensation reservoir and should be wet? My fan blade is never wet..
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I've repaired a lot of window units because someone has drilled a hole in the pan, to drain water, and hit the coil. Please do not drill any holes in anything! These units utilize condensate water to help reject the heat in the outdoor coil. If water is reaching the outdoor fan, it either does not have the proper "lean" or slope, or it's designed to allow water to reach the fan, and not much you can do. If it is designed to allow water to cool the outdoor coil, and you were to drain that water so that no condensate water cools the outdoor coil, this will allow the unit to operate with an excessive outdoor coil temp, and shorten the life of the compressor, or cause the unit to operate poorly/warm supply air temp. Try to give it just a little more "lean". Hope this helps!
Hi, On many of the newer air conditioners they intentionally keep some water in there so that it splashes onto the condenser coil and helps to cool it....while this may work well it also creates more noise....so I often recommend to drill a drain hole in the back corner...jus drill down from the top...drilling up from the bottom is a great way to drill right through the coil....
The A/C unit should be tilted slightly to the rear and this will allow the water to leak to the outside of the window, you may have to drill a small hole in the case to drain if there is no pre-existing hole.
On most new units, the water left in the tray is picked
up by the fan motor blade which kind of cools the unit down.
On some models there is a round hole on the bottom left hand corner on the back of the unit. Really hard to
get a fitting between condensor coil and frame,but it
can be done. However the manufactuer will usually state if a drain has to be run if it is needed
mcdevito75 here, The portion of the a/c unit that goes outside the window is the evaporator and suppose to leak water, check the drain hole in the unit floor on the outside portion of the unit, reach this drain hole thru another window or have your local a/c repair shop look at it, they come to the house.
I would make sure the 'drain hole' is clear and not stopped up. Sounds like it could be stopped up and you have so much water in the unit it's over-flowing and coming out inside the window.
hope this helps.
p.s. one other thing - you might need to put another hole in the unit (to allow better draining). Typically these units just drip water outside and putting (with a drill) another hole in the bottom of the unit to allow better draining is easily done.
Leave it alone. DO NOT attempt to create a drain. As long as a window A/C unit is installed properly, (angled slightly down toward the rear) it will drain excess water over the rear lower lip of the unit should it get that high. Many models use some of the collected water/condensation. It gets lifted up by the fan blades to cool the coil.
Dear Customer,
The likely reasons for a leaking AC are...
1) Improperly installed. A window air conditioner must be slightly lower at the rear than the front. This allows the water being removed from the room to drain to the back of the machine. A difference of one inch is sufficient. This is always the first thing to check. Many are improperly installed in the haste to get relief from the heat. If installed too low at front the water will flow into the room rather than outside. If installed too low at rear, water can roll out front edges before has chance to exit towards rear drain.
Icing up. Water being de-humidified can turn to ice if there are problems with the cooling system. There are many reasons for an air conditioner to produce ice. Remove front grille while machine is operating. If ice is present on the cooling coil you will probably need service. For more information see our other article:Why window Air Conditioners Ice up.
Air leakage around air conditioner. If warm air is able to enter around the air conditioner it will encounter cooler, dryer air. When they meet condensation will occur. If water leaking from front of air conditioner inspect to see if dripping from body of machine, or water droplets clinging to front area. To test, operate machine for 30 minutes and then use flashlight to check under front edge of base. Small water droplets here indicate an air leakage problem. Add foam insulation to stop warm air from infiltrating.
Drain hole blocked. Rear of air conditioner base has a drain hole or groove to allow water to escape. If becomes blocked water can back up. To test, operate machine for 30 minutes and then inspect if draining properly. If appears blocked use a small piece of wood to open drain hole at rear of metal base. CAUTION: Never be tempted to drill holes into the air conditioner body to relieve water pooling. Severe damage can result.
Internal drains blocked. There are small passageways that allow water to drain from front of air conditioner to the rear. If they become blocked water will pool at front of machine and overflow onto floor. If this happens the air conditioner will require removal from window and servicing.
Outside temperature too cold. This occurs at end of cooling season. If outside temperatures drops below 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night the cooling coil may ice up. If no leakage at bedtime but water in front of machine in morning, suspect this problem. If this problem suspected turn off machine before bedtime and restart as day warms. Alternately, operate machine at night with selector switch in ‘fan only’ position. This will circulate room air during night but not allow cooling.
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