Clutch/Brake Pedal Problem

Here are the general steps for replacing the clutch pedal spring on a 2017 Troybilt Pony lawn tractor:

1. Park the tractor on a level surface, engage the parking brake and stop the engine.
2. Locate the clutch pedal spring. The spring is typically located on the left side of the tractor, connecting the clutch pedal to the clutch linkage.
3. Use pliers to remove the spring from the pedal and linkage.
4. Compare the new spring to the old one to ensure that they are the same size and shape.
5. Install the new spring by connecting one end to the clutch pedal and the other end to the linkage.
6. Test the clutch pedal to make sure it moves smoothly and returns to the proper position when released.
7. If the clutch pedal still not working properly or is hard to press, you may want to check the clutch linkage and make sure it's not binding or damaged.

It's important to follow the manufacturer's recommended intervals for replacing the clutch pedal spring, and to use the correct replacement part recommended by the manufacturer.
Keep in mind that these are general instructions, and the specific steps for replacing the clutch pedal spring may vary depending on the make and model of your tractor. It's always recommended to consult the owner's manual or contact the manufacturer for specific instructions or guidance.

You would depress the clutch/brake pedal all the way down and then pull or activate the brake engage lever or linkage. To release it normally all you have to do is fully depress the clutch/brake pedal and the linkage or lever will automatically disengage.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_73617967471ec7c4

U need a new clutch, period.

Clutch plate and pressure plate seem to be too weak to pull the car. To test the clutch plate, park the car on flat surface. Pull the hand brake up, start the car, depress the foot brake pedal, depress the clutch pedal, put the car in 1st gear, press the gas pedal and leave the clutch pedal at once, while keeping the brake pedal depressed.
Follow one of the two following statements:
1. Engine does not shut down and remain start. (Clutch plate, pressure plate and clutch bearing defective - Replace all as a set)
2. Engine shuts down. (Clutch system is OK and does not require any repair).

are you holding the lever while lifting your foot of the pedal?

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

The power sequence for engaging the blade deck is. Clutch brake pedal depressed, operator in seat, Enage selected and brake pedal released. When the blade enages the engine igniton kill wire is routed through the seat switch AND the PTO clutch. If either the PTO Clutch or the seat switch has a problem the engine dies. Same goes for the clutch brake pedal switch... if the clutch brake is not coming all the way up the engine will die.

If you respond with a model number (example LX2000) I can show via a manual where you need to troubleshoot using a meter.

Do a couple of good bounces on the seat, check the clutch brake pedal switch for clicks and then attempt to an engagement.

Also inspect the PTO clutch wires and connectors for corrosion.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

I had the same problem with my Craftsman Lawn Tractor. The Drive Belt (which is not adjustable) is only engaged when the Brake Pedal is released (the Brake Pedal is located on the left side of the tractor, near the foot rest on my Tractor).

The Symptoms: My Tractor lacked driving power, and would not go up an incline, but the mower deck was powerful and working fine, even though the Tractor seemed to lack power and moved slower than usual, and would not travel up an incline.

I too, changed the Drive Belt, which initially seemed to help somewhat for a very short period of time, and then the same, lack of power problem, re-appeared again. The belt was not the problem, but only seemed to work somewhat due to the rougher texture of the belt's surface against the pulleys.

I also changed the Plastic Clutch Pulleys that engage the Drive Belt, thinking that they may have been worn down to a point that the Drive Belt could not fully engage with these Pulleys. No Luck.

NO ONE, NOT EVEN SEARS ON-LINE REPAIR ADVICE CENTER HAD A SOLUTION. THIS WAS VERY FRUSTRATING INDEED.

There had to be a solution: After much investigation, I eventually discovered the problem, which actually was easy to solve, and I would like to share this simple solution with others facing this same Frustrating Problem.

The Brake Pedal, when released, causes the Drive Belt Clutch Pulleys to move, and thus Tighten the Drive Belt. When you look under the Tractor, there is a Protective Metal Plate mounted to the Bottom of the Main Tractor Frame which covers the Brake Pedal Shaft and attached Mechanisms. Over time, Grass Builds up in between the Protective Metal Plate and the Tractor's Main Frame Deck, creating a very narrow space between these two pieces of metal.

This area is very difficult to get at, and almost impossible to clean out. Over time, Grass Clippings accumulate in this hidden area, and harden to an almost rock hard clump.

These Hardened Clippings accumulated between the Brake Pedal Mechanism and its fully released metal stop position. Thus, preventing the Brake Pedal Mechanism from moving to its fully engaged position.

I used a long screw driver to break up the compacted grass clippings, and an Air Compressor Blow Gun to break up the packed grass and blow the area clear. It takes awhile to do this cleanup, and is a bit messy, so do it outside, but be patient, and be sure to clean out all the grass that is lodged in this hidden area.

What was happening was that the Packed Grass was so dense that the Brake Pedal could not Fully Release, thus only Partially Engaging the Clutch Pulleys and the Drive Belt, hence the appearance of a loose Drive Belt even when the Brake Pedal was released.

Once the Packed Grass Debris was cleaned out, you will immediately notice the Drive Belt being tighter than it was previously when the Brake Pedal is released, and when you test drive the Tractor you'll find that everything works perfectly, like it was brand new.

Good Luck...
Rayko

the switch is attatched to the clutch pedal or a bracket that stops the pedal when disengaged

is this perhaps a hydro trans? if so, try putting the shift lever in neutral, then let off the brake pedal, use the shift lever to go forward and to neutral to stop - same with reverse, don't even use the brake pedal except for emergency stops. if it's a manual shift, it's possible the belt is incorrect, and/or the belt guides are bent or the belt is improperly routed - the belt guides are important as they allow the belt to "blossom" off the engine pulley, reducing the "shock" load when engaged - hope this helps

I would bet that the Torque converter, (which is the big pulley, with a wheel in between).
Has become jammed, and needs freeing off.
Due to the fact, that they can't be lubricated.
You will probably need to to remove it, completely, to do this.
However, it's not too painful a process.
Hope that's solved it:)