Does anyone have any idea what the specs of the replacement speaker should be? How many Ohms/watts? I opened up the detector and it is a small plastic-like speaker labeled "AS2832-LW56 PUI China". I'd rather find the right type of speaker for about $1.00 instead of paying Beltronics $38.00 to ship me the same crappy speaker that broke in the first place.
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Re: Internal Speaker type/rating?
The speaker is a 28mm diameter 32 Ohm speaker. Bel/Escort now use a newer custom PUI manufactured "high temp" speaker which resolves issues of the speaker blowing out due to high temperatures. Contact Bel/Escort using their online chat feature on their web sites. Likely they will send you a replacement speaker for a cheap price which you can solder in yourself (assuming that your RD is out of warranty).
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1st thing is amps outputs have to be properly "loaded" this value is given in "ohms" if your amp says minimum speaker "loading" impedance is 4 ohms ( I suspect it does) then you may load that 1 channel down to only 4 ohms or amp will be damaged , most speakers are rated in ohm's Impedance (look for Greek symbol for omega) look for its rating somewhere on it doing the electrical formula math if you connect two 4 ohm speakers in parallel to one channel ( +=+ / -/- ) this divides down to 2 ohms (not good) but if you take same speakers and connect in series together (+to-/+to-) this gives you eight ohms (better) , the watts rating is a figure for you to determine the amount of power the speakers will take before failure , hence just because you connect 200 watt speakers to a 2000 watt amp is no indication that speaker will take all 2000 watts ( it will fail long before that point ) watts do ADD together like the above example two 4 ohm 250 watt speakers connected to one channel of amp in series will look like ONE 8 ohm 500 watt speaker to amp of course over 16 ohms load speaker volume will greatly diminish and amps have max impedance loads for them as well although there not often published
this is why I love the old TUBE!!! amps they load all the way down to 2 ohms and go up as far as 32 ohms load with no problems , they sound better as well across the board as well
An amp with 700 watts power per channel at 4 ohms as recommended in the spec sheet, depending on the crest factor or your program material you may want to go with the continious power rating of the speaker.
You seem to be looking for an amp made for car audio. There are many brands, but I going to give you the specs for your particular speaker which will help in choosing, not a specific name brand amp, but at least one with the proper power outputs/requirements.
Your speaker, based on the model number you provided, is rated at 4 ohms .Power handling range is 50-300 watts. And a peak of 600watts. That does not mean start cranking 600watts thru the speaker, it will blow. I suggest you acquire a single (mono) channel amp that provides 350-400 watts at 4 ohms.
Wow, i just answered a similar question so, pretty much the same answer.......
You seem to be looking for an amp made for car audio. There are many
brands, but I going to give you the specs for your particular speaker
which will help in choosing, not a specific name brand amp, but at least
one with the proper power outputs/requirements.
based on the model number you provided, is rated at 4 ohms .Nominal power
handling range is 300 watts. And a peak of 600watts. That does not
mean start cranking 600 watts thru the speaker, it will blow. I suggest
you acquire a single (mono) channel amp that provides 350-400 watts at 4
ohms. Leaves you a little headroom on the amp, but use caution.
Those specs would be right - I have this same board but the amp was fried by a previous owner. I pulled the amp board out and tossed it and use the mixer now to drive an external amp. Great board.
This amp is rated at 1200W "peak", bridged into an 8ohm load. That would equate to about 900W RMS bridged into 8ohm or 450 per side into 4ohm loads per side.
You can't daisy chain all 4 speakers....impedance would be too low. You can run two of your 8ohm speakers per side - that results in a 4ohm load per side for the amp. That would give you amp delivery of 450W per side. Your speakers are rated to handle more than that so you're fine.
For the record.....you could run one speaker per side no problem....just lower power output.
The 600 watt rating is FAKE like most of our advertising and will be either 600 watts PEAK or 600 watts PROGRAM. If it is Peak, use an amplifier with no more than 100 watts a side RMS... If it is program rating use an amp with no more than 150 watts a side RMS but that is pushing it for speaker safety. Also pay attention to the spec of the amp as to what it will output at the impedance of the speakers. I read the spec on the speakers... they are rated 150 watts RMS, NOT 600 watts... Use an amp rated at 150 watts RMS MAXIMUM at 4 ohms per side. Also don't turn up the bass excessively or you be buying new speakers. Twelve inch speakers would be adequate for a 20 by 20 room at SAFE listening levels. If you want driving bass, you need to get an 18 inch subwoofer.
I just replaced my blown sub in my Avalon xls with a Kicker 07C84 and it works great. For the same price of a repair kit, you can just buy this new speaker. Why go through the hassle of repairing a 9 year old speaker. This speaker fits into the same cutout of the old speaker. All I did was splice the red and black wires within the factory plastic housing so I could still use the factory connector.
You are probably aware on how to use these output figures, but I'll write a quick explanation on the specifications for future readers anyways :)
The concpet CC-452 amplifier has the following power output specifications:
Calculated at 14.5 volts DC;
At 4 ohms per channel - 45 watts x 2 (RMS)
At 2 ohms per channel - 70 watts x 2 (RMS)
At 4 ohms bridged - 150 watts x 1 (RMS)
This means that your amplifier would provide 45 watts of power each for your front speakers, which are normally a 4 ohm load per side (45 watts for left, 45 watts for right), that's unless they are one of those exotic higher end brands (eg: Boston Z6s which are 3 ohms). Rarely, you will find speakers that are rated at 2 ohms per side, but in this instance the amplifier will provide 70 watts of power into each speaker. On your speaker specifications, you will find a value termed "nominal impedance" which will give you the ohm rating of the speakers being used..
On the other hand, if you "bridge" both channels into a single channel (using a diagram often marked on the speaker terminals of the amp), you could then provide 150 watts into a subwoofer (providing it was a 4 ohm woofer).
It's not recommended to use this amp bridged under 4 ohms..
Some subwoofers may be lower than 4 ohms, and you will not be able to use this amplifier for these types of speakers without risking amplifier failure. Also, some subwoofers may have 2 seperate voice coils, and you will have to use both channels of the amplifier seperately (not bridged) in order to correctly connect this type of speaker for use.