Need yoke type mount

I am not exactly sure on your machine, several places called it a direct drive unit but here are some directions I have found also.

1) Turn off water. Disconnect electrical supply and water hoses.
2) Remove agitator and cap from machine ( this is not always possible as the agitator gets frozen on the shaft, it just makes the job a little easier )
3) Lay machine on it's front. Protect front of the unit from scratches. Do not leave it over night on it's front as some oil will leak out the breather hole on top of the transmission.
4) Remove rear service panel
5) Loosen both nuts holding the motor mounting bracket in the slotted base plate holes. (see figure 1)

6) Rotate the motor to the right to relieve the belt tension and remove belt from motor pulley

7) After belt is removed from motor pulley, rotate motor to the left as far as possible to assure cam bar clearance.

8) The spin cam bar must be advanced to the spin position. Push up on the spin control solenoid plunger and rotate the main drive pulley until the cam bar advances to the spin position.

9) Remove the brake yoke spring from the gear case cover and yok. (see figure 2)

10) Remove completely the 3 support braces attached to the gear case and base plate. (see figure 3)

11) Remove the 2 pump mounting bolts. The pump hoses do not have to be disturbed. (see figure 3)

12) Remove the gear case mounting stud which has the spacer. remove spacer (see figure 2). Loosen the remaining 2 gear case mounting studs approximately 7 turns. (see figure 3).

13) Remove yoke retainer from yoke support. (see figure 2 for the types of yoke retainer).

14) The gear case can now be pulled down so that the belt can be slipped out between the top of of the clutch shaft and the clutch yoke. (see figure 4) and then through the space beneath the short stud; drop the belt from around the gear case.

15) Reverse the procedure in steps 15 & 13 to install the new belt.

16) Replace the pump making certain the pump lever is engaged in the notch in the agitator cam bar before securing the pump to the gear case ( see figure 5).

17) Grasp the bottom loop of the yoke spring with a pair of pliers and engage the spring with the hole in the upper gear case cover (see figure 2).

18) Replace spacer in short gear case mounting stud. Tighten the 3 gearcase mounting bolts ( finger tight only ). Next, set the machine upright and tighten the gear case mounting bolts securely. This procedure will allow the superstructure to properly align itself with the center post bearing.

19) Lay the machine on it's front to mount the 3 support braces to the gearcase baseplate. Tighten the bolts securely.

20) To adjust the belt tension properly, position the belt over the pulleys. Insert a hammer handle or some other lever between the motor mounting brackets. Rotate the motor to the left as far as it will go. Tighten the nuts holding the motor mounting bracket. Check the tension of the belt, it should deflect about 1/2 inch. (see figure 1).

21) Set machine upright. Reinstall the agitator, agitator cap, service panel, water hoses and connect electrical supply.

These drums are are often mounted to the output shaft with four bolts on about a 6" circle. If it doesn't have the four bolts then look to see if the yoke is bolted to the drum. If so, the drum will either be secured by the yoke or there will be a big nut under the yoke that you have to remove to pull the drum.

lp

How to Set Up a Saitek Proflight Yoke System Instructions

Mounting the Yoke

Mounting the Yoke

1. Determine where you will set it up. You need a desk or table with a wide, flat surface. Clear away objects on the desk that might be in the way or that could be accidentally knocked off. The yoke must be mounted on top of the table and takes up a good deal of space, but the throttle may be mounted in front of or even under under the table if you prefer.
   

2. Remove both units from the box carefully. The system is lightweight, but care should be taken not to drop it. Note that there are also some loose parts in the box including the large clamp which attaches the yoke and a smaller clamp for the throttle unit. Note that there are some instructions and diagrams on the back of the box that may be of use.
   

3. Place the yoke on the surface and position it where you want it.
   

4. Pick up the yoke clamp assembly and make sure that the threaded plastic bolt is inserted, but not screwed in. The clamp fits underneath the table with the two upper prongs sliding into the corresponding holes on the front of the unit.
   

5. Adjust the yoke and clamp as needed to insure it is in the exact position you want. Then tighten the plastic bolt. Test the yoke to make sure it is stable and does not move on the table when you manipulate the controls.
   

6. Pick up the throttle unit and its clamp assembly. Unlike with the yoke, the clamp assembly must be screwed into the back of the throttle unit using small screws. Note that it may be attached in two different directions depending upon how you wish to mount the throttle to your table (either above or in front of it). Decide now which way will work best for you. See the images on the box for reference.
   

7. Position the throttle clamp around the table surface and tighten the plastic bolt, just as you did for the yoke.
   

Connecting it to Your Computer

8. Look at the back of the yoke. There is a single USB cable which is permanently attached to the yoke. Plug this cable directly into a USB port on your PC. The ports on the rear of a computer usually work better for this purpose than those on the front.
   

9. Look at the back of the throttle unit. There should be a single cord coming out the back of it. Note that it is not a USB cable. Instead it has a round connector, like those used on non-USB keyboards and mice. Plug this cable into the round port on the back of the yoke.
   

10. Turn your computer on. It should recognize the yoke as a new plug and play device. Note that the computer will see the yoke and throttle as a single device rather than as two separate ones. The included software is not required. The yoke should work as soon as it is plugged in.
    

11. Go to website http://saitek.com/uk/down/drivers.php to download and install the latest drivers.
    

12. Assign buttons and commands directly through your favorite flight simulator.
    

13. Additional peripherals such as rudder pedals or another throttle unit may be added using the USB port on the back of the yoke.
    

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need to shim the rearend mounts to adjust the pinion angle to compensate for the body lift.

there is a long bush type bearing in this tunnel just at the end were the seal fits in it can were out and let the prop shaft flap about, this in turn rips the seal to bits,,,also the yoke has a polished part on the end that go's over the spline into the end of the gear box tunnel the seal can were a groov into this part, and no amount of new seals will stop it leaking them as the new seal runs in this worn out groov, again ripping it to bits,,,test the long bush type bearing by holding the prop shaft yoke and pushing it up and to the side, if it moves about replace the bush in the end of the tunnel as well,, its a push in fit! with a big hammer!!
if the yoke has a groov in it you need a new prop as all prop shafts are balanced so you can just fit a new yoke it could throw the car up in the air when your driving it down the free way,,,,by shaking it apart
i hope this is of help to you

cardan centering bearing
point bolts needed to be removed that connects D.S.to transfercase

bajaj ct 100 service manual free

Remove it. Then drive the truck to see if it vibrates. If it don't forget it. If it does, replace the driveshaft. But get it off there before it breaks something.

Yes you can rebuild the tailshaft and there are bearings inside of is. Does the yoke seem to be smooth looking meaning no major marks?

The part you want is called a "yoke", and not a "York". This is the electromagnetic coil that fits on to the neck of the CRT, and makes the magnetic field from the scan amplfiers to scan the the beam.

I don't know if you realize that when changing the yoke, the purity and convergence alignment will have to be done on the set. This is a job task that requires skill and a lot of practice. Not many service techs are very good at this type of setup. There are specific calibration patterns used for this type of setup. When changing the yoke, it is very common that the ring magnet assembly (convergenc and purity magnets) that is behind the yoke must also be changed. Some yokes come with this assembly together, depending on the model of yoke.

Some manufactures do not sell the yoke separately from the CRT. When the CRT is replaced, it comes with the yoke and magnetic assembly.

An interesting question would be is, how did you determine that the yoke is actualy bad??? It is extremely rare that this type of part fails.

Parts for CRT type sets are getting very scarce. Because the market for spare parts for CRT sets is decreasing very quickly, the clone part manufactures are also not making the generic type dedicated parts.

A way to have parts for your TV set would be to search for a used set that can be used for spare parts. You will have to hope that the same parts you need are also not defective in the used set.

In my opinion, if the yoke is actualy bad, I would be shopping for a new set rather than go through all this trouble. The LCD TV sets are excellent. There is no way that your CRT set will ever be able to perform like the new LCD sets.


Jerry G.