Kenmore washer "warm" wash cycle not above room temperature
Brand new Sears Kenmore 500 washer - will not do a warm wash cycle. Mixing valve cycles on and off (shaking the hot water hose) but the end result is always a wash temperature that is about room temp. New water heater, new Pex plumbing, new filler hoses, no clogs, plenty of hot & cold water pressure. Sears replaced the motor the first week we had the machine, had one service call on the temperature problem and the tech said it was normal. Called again and the service center said someone had the same problem on the same model machine - changed a part and there was some improvement, so we scheduled another service call. Same tech responded and said if he couldn't find anything wrong he would not replace anything, so we cancelled the service call and got a replacement machine. And guess what? --- same problem. Is this normal for all the new washers, or does Kenmore have a bad batch of ATC valves? Why bother putting "WARM" on the knob when there is no such thing?
This machine has 4 temp settings - tap cold, cool, warm and hot. When the warm setting is selected, the cold water runs full-time and the hot cycles on and off. You can tell by feeling the incoming water temp, plus the hot water hose jerks everytime it cycles. On the hot setting some cold water is added to the hot water. Sears says the 72 degree "warm" water is normal. This machine has ATC (automatic temperature control) which is supposed to regulate the water temp.This machine has 4 temp settings - tap cold, cool, warm and hot. When the warm setting is selected, the cold water runs full-time and the hot cycles on and off. You can tell by feeling the incoming water temp, plus the hot water hose jerks everytime it cycles. On the hot setting some cold water is added to the hot water. Sears says the 72 degree "warm" water is normal. This machine has ATC (automatic temperature control) which is supposed to regulate the water temp.
Okay. I made the mistake of not asking first what the full model number was so I could look it up. It does sound like its ATC isn't working properly as that's all that there is to the regulation. I got out of the appliance service grind (working for Sears, even) as a living long enough ago that I'm behind the times, I don't know much about this particular system. I don't know if there's any kind of an electronic temp sensor circuit or if it's just fixed timing that controls the valves. You might want to check the Sears website for contact information and see if you can talk to someone higher up their food chain about this issue. Since this is happening on more than one machine it definitely says it's either by design or they've had a run of bad parts. I won't be able to offer any more help, just my hope that you can get this resolved quickly.
Okay. I made the mistake of not asking first what the full model number was so I could look it up. It does sound like its ATC isn't working properly as that's all that there is to the regulation. I got out of the appliance service grind (working for Sears, even) as a living long enough ago that I'm behind the times, I don't know much about this particular system. I don't know if there's any kind of an electronic temp sensor circuit or if it's just fixed timing that controls the valves. You might want to check the Sears website for contact information and see if you can talk to someone higher up their food chain about this issue. Since this is happening on more than one machine it definitely says it's either by design or they've had a run of bad parts. I won't be able to offer any more help, just my hope that you can get this resolved quickly.
All the temp selector does is control which solenoids operate on the fill valve during the fill cycle. Warm opens both hot and cold, of course, but that's all it does. The water temp is determined by your supply. If you run just a hot fill, is the water actually hot or just tepid?
All the temp selector does is control which solenoids operate on the fill valve during the fill cycle. Warm opens both hot and cold, of course, but that's all it does. The water temp is determined by your supply. If you run just a hot fill, is the water actually hot or just tepid?
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I just purchased a Sears Kenmore 600 washer and the warm water is not warm. My first machine had this problem and I got it replaced. The 2nd one had the same problem and I had the technician come out. Basically, because of the temperature of my cold water, there is no difference between the tap cold, cool and warm settings. My tap water is 75F and the technician said that the people that build the machine (Whirlpool) defined that as "warm" so when you set it to warm, the water starts, the temperature sensor sees it as "warm" and no hot water is ever added to the tub. He said that if I lived up North and it was winter and the cold water was really cold, the machine would probably warm it up to 78. You either have to live with this or get a machine from a manufacturer that doesn't consider 75 as "warm".
I just purchased a Sears Kenmore 600 washer and the warm water is not
warm. My first machine had this problem and I got it replaced. The
2nd one had the same problem and I had the technician come out.
Basically, because of the temperature of my cold water, there is no
difference between the tap cold, cool and warm settings. My tap water
is 75F and the technician said that the people that build the machine
(Whirlpool) defined that as "warm" so when you set it to warm, the
water starts, the temperature sensor sees it as "warm" and no hot water
is ever added to the tub. He said that if I lived up North and it was
winter and the cold water was really cold, the machine would probably
warm it up to 78. You either have to live with this or get a machine
from a manufacturer that doesn't consider 75 as "warm".
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You may have a defective cold water solenoid on the water inlet valve. There is a separate solenoid for hot and for cold. Since nearly all washers use cold water only during the rinse cycles, you are correct, the washer will not complete a full cycle. You will need to replace the inlet valve. The following link explains how:
If you need further assistance, please post back with your complete model number (located under the wash lid along the tub rim), so that I may be able to provide you with better service. I hope this helps you.
start filling the washer on the warm cycle,turn washer off,if the water keeps filling then you have a bad water inlet valve,if it turns off then you have a loose water level hose or the water level switch is bad-mike
Hi, If you have checked the screens in the mixer valve and there is nothing plugging it, then it is most likely the mixer valve.
I hope this helps. Please let me know and feel free to rate my response to you.
check your water pressure if its good check the valve on the back of the washer to see if anything is stopping it up . you may have to replace the water valve
If you are getting no water spray during the rinse cycle that would cause the soapy clothes issue.
Are you getting cold water during the wash/rinse cycles? If you have the machine set to warm/warm you may only be getting hot water while the final spin is calling for cold.
If you have cold water available then the timer is not calling for the water spray. The problem is either in the mixing valve or the timer.
It sounds like your water inlet valve (also known as a Mixing Valve on some washers) HOT solenoid is sticking open. When you select either a hot or cold wash cycle, separate solenoids open or close to allow only cold water to enter the washer on the cold wash cycles and hot water to enter on the hot cycles. If the hot solenoid stays open, you will have hot water mixing with your cold water during the cold cycles. The result is warm water. I would recommend you replace the water inlet valve. This is a job the average DIYer can do. Please post back with your model number and I can assist you with locating a part number and/or give you specifics on how to access the valve to replace it.
There may be a downstream screen at the back of the washer in each line.
I would check both ends of the hose to ensure they are clear.
Also, the mixing valve on most machines is a piece of **** and are prone to failure.
They are mostly not not hard to replace and you can save some bucks normally by buying it at Johnstone Supply if you have one nearby.
This machine has 4 temp settings - tap cold, cool, warm and hot. When the warm setting is selected, the cold water runs full-time and the hot cycles on and off. You can tell by feeling the incoming water temp, plus the hot water hose jerks everytime it cycles. On the hot setting some cold water is added to the hot water. Sears says the 72 degree "warm" water is normal. This machine has ATC (automatic temperature control) which is supposed to regulate the water temp.
Okay. I made the mistake of not asking first what the full model number was so I could look it up. It does sound like its ATC isn't working properly as that's all that there is to the regulation. I got out of the appliance service grind (working for Sears, even) as a living long enough ago that I'm behind the times, I don't know much about this particular system. I don't know if there's any kind of an electronic temp sensor circuit or if it's just fixed timing that controls the valves. You might want to check the Sears website for contact information and see if you can talk to someone higher up their food chain about this issue. Since this is happening on more than one machine it definitely says it's either by design or they've had a run of bad parts. I won't be able to offer any more help, just my hope that you can get this resolved quickly.
All the temp selector does is control which solenoids operate on the fill valve during the fill cycle. Warm opens both hot and cold, of course, but that's all it does. The water temp is determined by your supply. If you run just a hot fill, is the water actually hot or just tepid?
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