Hi. I have the RX-ES1SL receiver. The SX-DW303 that is pacakged with the QP-ES7 AL system, has developed a fault. The subwoofer has always made a healthy click when turning it on from the switch on the rear, unfortunately there would now apear to be zero power getting through to the unit, even though my resounding click is still there on switching on. It's not the fuse, and i haven't changed any settings for it to end up like this on the receiver. Subsequently i've mucked around with the settings on the receiver, of course, to no avail. The power light on the front of the subwoofer is VERY dim, so there's something getting through. Previously to it ending up in this state it used to periodically switch on/off/on/off all the time after prolonged (2hrs) use, which was annoying as hell. That might be linked, i don't know. Any thoughts on how to get this product back to full fitness? It's out of warranty. :( Kevin.
SOURCE: JVC RX-ES1SL 5.I
1: In most cases there are two FET`s gone you can use a normal IRF 530 but cut the heat sink from the FET do it with a pincer not with a grinding machine! (static electricity!). Before you switch on the set pay attention for the following parts!
2: The two coils that are mounted under the metal housing on the main board look of they have a other color if so they are burnt Check also the SMD parts under the main PCB.
3: The two SMD Elco`s that are mounted on the little PCB they have in most cases a high ESR. The value must be under 1 I thing that all the troubles you can have with this set are coming from this two elco`s (100uF 16 volt.)
4: look for a short cut on this little PCB pay attention to the two SMD gates. Measure the S/C over the +5 and +12 volt lines and check both PCB visual.
5: You must bring in a lot of heat to remove the both IRF`s use a good flux and do not fear the heat they can have it.
Because you must use a big Iron there is the danger to damage this aluminum layer check visual after you have solder the two FET`s all the connection with the smaller parts measure them with a Ohm meter. This was the fault in mine case there was a open connection to one of the gates of the FET`s
you will need a line-level converter to use this subwoofer- it is a rectangular-shaped box with wires coming out on one end and red-and-white RCA plugs one the other. The end with the wires coming out will hook to the receiver, and the other end will need to plug into the sub.
SOURCE: I have a JVC rx-888
Use any RCA cable. If you have been aquiring audio video equipment over the last years you probably have some lying around. The Red Green and Blue ones that came with your Flat TV which you are not using because you hooked it up with HDMI will do just fine.
A connectivity check could provide the solution, notice any wrong wire connections on device or any other devices requiring interconnection. The woofer would perform properly when the connections that provide current for woofing are approapiate
1. Trace the connection from Recorder or sound output to the woofer device
2. The wiring connections should be sound and video ouput into sound and video output into woofer.
3. The connections if any problems would be located at the stereo recorder or device producing the spund and video. Check the connections of wires on the recorder device ensuring rewiriing
4. finally, adjust the equalisers if any the buttoms could have been disbled by master switch hindering full blaster boost sound.
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