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I've got the dishwasher open (GE nautalis built-in) with no air gap. I've got the plastic screen behind the arm removed and there is a lot of water in the open well there. But as I feel around with a spoon, I don't bring up any blockage. What's my next step? This is new to me. I unplugged the disposal and removed the hose there. There is no block there. The hose under the dishwasher is pretty inaccessible to me, although I've got the unit unscrewed from the counter and front and pulled forward in it's opening.
Hoping I can fix this myself with your help. Thanks.
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There is a valve in the rear of the machine under the screen. If it is worn will not drain well . unscrew the valve and check whether the rubber cone is still all there. run in pump cycle with the valve out to clean the unit out.
1. Air gap / Drain hoses If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.
If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.
Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.
2. Broken belt Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.
Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.
3. Pump Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.
4. Drain solenoid Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.
5. Motor If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.
Replace the motor if defective.
6. Timer or Control Board Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).
1. Air gap / Drain hoses If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.
If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.
Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.
2. Broken belt Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.
Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.
3. Pump Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.
4. Drain solenoid Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.
5. Motor If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.
Replace the motor if defective.
6. Timer Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).
1. Air gap / Drain hoses If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.
If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.
Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.
2. Broken belt Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.
Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.
3. Pump Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.
4. Drain solenoid Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.
5. Motor If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.
Replace the motor if defective.
6. Timer Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).....
when you refer to the air gap, are you referring to the drain pipe of the washer to the house plumbing connection? There can be two reasons for this 1)The receiver of the gap does not allow a high enough head to push the
water through the trap initially and you have an overflow until the
water begins to flow. Since you have an air gap, there is no pressure
to force the flow other than gravity so if the stand pipe is very short
combined with a fast flow into it, you may get a temporary
"restriction" effect. 2)A clogged vent. depending on how the plumbing system is built, I can
see where this may cause a slight pressure build up on the other side
of the p trap and cause the same situation as #2.
Clean out the air gap. Remove decorative cover by pulling up. Remove plastic dome by gripping and moving side to side while pulling it up. When you get the dome off you can see if the air gap is partially blocked.
plugged air gap line most likely. open air gap and remove small dome so that the water can pump out directly to the sink, putting a towel behind it to keep the water off the counter. when clear, put it all back. if that is not it, your pump is bad. good luck mark
On many Dishwashers at the bottom ( remove lower rack ) is usually a metal mesh screen Under that screen is the pump inlet .When the screen gets clogged up or even restricted .It will either slow drain ,and or spit it out the breather hole on the air gap .So i think the issue is inside the dishwasher .If its a newer SS tub Then the mesh screen should be metal .However if its plastic then it will be a plastic screen Hard water deposits along with food particles can clog the pump screen
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