I have a whistler pro 1600 that got plugged into a live 110v circuit fed by a camp generator. Switch was in off position at time but unit got back feed. Unit will power up initially, gives battery output info, but gives you a blinking green light with alarm. It will initially power a 60 watt light buld for about 1-2 seconds and then nothing. Fan seems fine. Any chance it is a simple problem to fix...fuse etc...I opened up and don't see any burnt wiring on the plug end....Options??

Running the car will drain the battery it if it's not charging ! An if your charging light is on it isn't charging ! Did you check power an grounds on the alternator ? There is a single heavier wire on the back of the alternator, this should have battery voltage ! You may want to take this to a ASE certified repair shop !
Functionality
With the ignition switch in the RUN position, voltage is applied through the warning indicator I circuit 904 (LG/RD) to the voltage regulator. This turns the regulator on, allowing current to flow from battery sense A circuit 35 (OG/LB) to the generator field coil. When the engine is started, the generator begins to generate alternating current (AC) which is internally converted to direct current (DC). This current is then supplied to the vehicle's electrical system through the output (B+) terminal of the generator.
Once the generator begins generating current, a voltage signal is taken from the generator stator and fed back to the regulator S circuit 4 (WH/BK). This voltage feedback signal (typically half the battery voltage) is used to turn off the warning indicator.
With the system functioning normally, the generator output current is determined by the voltage of the A circuit 35 (OG/LB). The A circuit 35 (OG/LB) voltage is compared to a set voltage internal to the regulator, and the regulator controls the generator field current to maintain the correct generator output.
The set voltage will vary with temperature and is typically higher in cold temperatures and lower in warm temperatures. This allows for better battery recharge in the winter and reduces the chance of overcharging in the summer.
Battery Positive Output (B+) Circuit 38 (BK/OG)
The generator output is supplied through the battery positive output (B+) terminal on the back of the generator to the battery and electrical system.
I Circuit 904 (LG/RD)
The I (ignition) circuit 904 (LG/RD) is used to turn on the voltage regulator. This circuit is powered up with the ignition switch in the RUN position. This circuit is also used to turn the charging system warning indicator on if there is a fault in the charging system operation.
A Circuit 35 (OG/LB)
The A (battery sense) circuit 35 (OG/LB) is used to sense battery voltage. This voltage is used by the regulator to determine generator output. This circuit is used to supply current to the generator field (rotor). The amount of current supplied to the rotor will determine generator output.
S Circuit 4 (WH/BK)
The S (stator) circuit 4 (WH/BK) is used to feed back a voltage signal from the generator to the regulator. This voltage is used by the regulator to turn off the charging system warning indicator. The S circuit is fed back externally on external mounted regulator generators.
Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Battery case, posts, hold-down clamp, cables and connections
• Generator drive (serpentine) belt for condition and tension to make sure there is no slip between the belt and the pulley. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .
• Battery charge
• Generator pulley

• Battery junction box (BJB)Mega Fuse
• Battery junction box fuse:
  • 11 (20A)
• Central junction box (CJB) fuse:
  • 30 (30A)
• Circuitry
• Charging system warning indicator
• Cables

1. Check the operation of the charging system warning indicator lamp (instrument cluster). Normal operation is as follows:
   • With the ignition switch OFF, the charging system warning indicator should be OFF.
   • With the ignition switch in RUN and the engine off, the charging system warning indicator light should be on.
   • With the engine running, the charging system warning indicator light should be off.

1. Verify the battery condition. Refer to Section 414-01 .

Normal Charging System Voltages and Charging System Warning Indicator Operation Ignition Switch Position A Circuit 35 (OG/LB) S Circuit 4 (WH/BK) I Circuit 904 (LG/RD) Generator B+ Circuit 38 (BK/OG) Battery Engine to Battery Ground Charging System Warning Indicator Operation OFF 12 volts 0 volts 0 volts 12 volts 12 volts 0 volts Off RUN-engine off 12 volts 0 volts 1-3 volts 12 volts 12 volts 0 volts Illuminated RUN-engine running 13-
15 volts 1/2 battery voltage 13-
15 volts 13-
15 volts 13-
15 volts 0 volts Off

1. If the customer concern is verified after the initial inspection, refer to the Symptom Chart to determine which tests to carry out.
2. • The charging system warning indicator is on with the engine running (the system voltage does not increase)
   • Circuitry.
   • Voltage regulator.
   • Generator.
   • GO to Pinpoint Test B .
   Your whole problem is the alternator is not charging , a couple tests with a volt meter would tell you !

There are a couple of possible causes:

1. There is a Front/Rear Switch somewhere in the unit, usually in the main salon or near the breaker box. This is most common if your generator is not large enough to run 2 units at the same time. It is not always labeled as such, sometimes it's just 1 or 2 and in others it's a set of breakers.

2. You have dropped a leg from the generator output. Normally the generator has 2 outputs, each feeding a separate circuit. This could be in the generator, the transfer switch or the breaker box. If you have issues with other 110v circuits, this would be a place to start.

3.

All Whistler radar detectors are Center pin positive. Need a 2 amp fuse in the lighter plug. Unit operates on 12 volts.

Its possibly a bad speaker. If the unit is under 3 years old, send it back to whistler to get it repaired under warranty. You can contact them at www.whistlergroup.com or [email protected]

if its over 3 years old, a good chance its just the speaker and you can order a speaker from whistler for $10 and repair it yourself.3eulcg

You need to reset the unit to clear that problem. To reset it, press the power and quiet buttons in, while holding in these buttons, plug in the power cord. THe unit will beep twice indicating its reset. the unit will be fine afterwards.

By the sounds of this one you have no permanent live feed to the unit. When you switch the ignition off you cut the power to the unit which should have a constant live feed to retain memory.
This is normally fed via the ACC position. If you do not have the ACC position available, then be sure to set the Auto Off function. The unit will shut off completely and automatically in the set time after the unit is turned off, which prevents battery drain. I f you do not set the Auto Off function, press and hold (SOURCE/OFF) until the display disappears each time you tum the ignition off.
(Rear of unit multi-plug) RED is 12V + to ACC Cable YELLOW is 12V + to constant live Cable BLACK is - Ground Cable
Good Luck with it.

Perform a factory reset (hold the power and quiet buttons in, while hold in these buttons plug in the power cord. Unit should beep twice) and see if this corrects it. If not contact Whistler at 800-531-0004.

Try to relocate the position of the pump where it would be protected from water splashes. The pump motor casing might not be designed for outdoor use or not desirable for water splashes. You may also replace your pump with units designed for this purpose (pump with motor casing rating of IP 65 or IP 55).

You are definitely on the right track. When you choose your power inverter consider the following: buy the inverter for around 40% more of your anticiapted load. You will need a double pole transfer switch to isolate the inverter from the generator(and visa versa). A simple double throw double pole switch with fuse or breaker protection should do it. You wouldn't necessarily have to isolate the curbside circuit as the double pole double throw switch would simply be switching the power from the existing generator to your new inverter for only the roadside circuit; i.e. you don't need to worry about the curbside power source as it will always be connected to the other branch circuit. Even if your generator or other source came on the system would be protected no matter what the the roadside configuration was set to as only one source of the 2 roadside power sources would be connected at any give time to the roadside circuit. The six dots represent the connecions for the double pole, double throw switch; shown supplying the new inverter to the roadside circuit while the source from the existing generator or inverter is disconnected via this switch from the roadside circuit:

existing * *------* new power inverter; switched to source
* *------*
^
Middle 2 dots represent your roadside circuit and represent the "throw arm" of the switch. Safe and simple! If you don't have a voltage meter for your batteries you can purchase one for a few bucks. Just run it across the terminals so you will know battery condition as it is being drained (you may already have this indicator) You can find a transfer switch at an electrical supply place, maybe even Lowes. Make sure you get the switch that will be in a protected enclosre. The enclosurre can be purchased seperately if you can't find the switch/enclosure package together.

Good luck....gary

Hey steve. do you really need 240 volts for 120 v. circuits. the reason you have to have an adaptor plug is because on your 220 volt plug in , 2 of tthose prongs are hot and 1 is ground. for safety you need to get a plug adapter ( a regular 120 volt plug end ) run a ground from adapter to ground on 220 adapter. same with nuetral. you also need to ground your generator. there is usaully a ground lug on the bottom of the gen. Another way. if you dont really need 220 v. is to use both 120v. recepticals on gen. Run 2 chords to tranf. switch. and hard wire it in to switch. another way i did mine . when i lost power in this hurricane. i ran two # 10 chords from my 2 120v. recept on my gen to my breaker panel. when you do this you have to pull the service meter, if you dont when power comes back on it would backfeed through your gen.then i turn all my 220v. breakers i was able to run lights ,ciling fans, freezer, ice box,washing machine and gas dryer , tv's computors etc. . but to do this, you probably need someone that knows what they are doin.