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The inside unit freezes up and i was told that the drip line may be stopped up how do I find it and what else could be the problem. This unit was replaced last summer due to a problem and now it freezes up
Usually when the indoor coil freezes up you either have dirty filters or coil but if you had this unit replaced last year your coil and filters are probably OK so you probably have a leak in the unit and are low on refrigerant.
Usually when the indoor coil freezes up you either have dirty filters or coil but if you had this unit replaced last year your coil and filters are probably OK so you probably have a leak in the unit and are low on refrigerant.Usually when the indoor coil freezes up you either have dirty filters or coil but if you had this unit replaced last year your coil and filters are probably OK so you probably have a leak in the unit and are low on refrigerant.
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The condensation pan in the unit must have no cracks our brakes, and needs to be tilt down toward the condensation drain line, algae builds up clogs and must be cleared of clogs periodicaly
the contactor is probably stuck shut you can check to see if it is its the big black thing that has all your power coming in and going out to unit to run fan and compressor. If it doesn't shut off and your inside unit does then it will freeze the lines and coil and water will drip when it starts to thaw out.
Sounds like the contactor in the condensing unit is stuck. That is why it will not turn off when the thermostat is satisfied. If the inside air handler is not blowing and the outside condensing unit is running, then this will cause the inside coils to freeze up rather quickly.
The contactor is located in the outside condensing uni in the electrical compartment.
If it is sticking it will need to be replaced.
Could be the drain tube is partially clogged. It is usually located on the fire-wall or down towards the floor pan under the car. It is usually close to where the A/C lines go thru the fire-wall. About 1/2 inch diameter sticking straight out but may have a 90 degree elbow pointing down. Also, it's been extra hot and humid all over and moisture could be freezing inside the unit when on MAX A/C, then suddenly melting when switched to normal. This opens the outside air door and allows warm/hot air into the unit instead of recirculating the cold air inside the car. The drain may not be able to handle a large, sudden quantity of water. Perform a "driveway" test. Open the hood, start engine and run the A/C on normal with the windows or doors open. Locate the drain tube by looking for water dripping. Once located twist 2 or 3 pipe cleaners together and verify the tube is clean. Then close the doors/windows and switch to MAX A/C. Check for water dripping. If it stops dripping, water is freezing inside and now you know why!
Could be the drain tube is partially clogged. It is usually located on the fire-wall or down towards the floor pan under the car. It is usually close to where the A/C lines go thru the fire-wall. About 1/2 inch diameter sticking straight out but may have a 90 degree elbow pointing down. Also, it's been extra hot and humid all over and moisture could be freezing inside the unit when on MAX A/C, then suddenly melting when switched to normal. This opens the outside air door and allows warm/hot air into the unit instead of recirculating the cold air inside the car. The drain may not be able to handle a large, sudden quantity of water. Perform a "driveway" test. Open the hood, start engine and run the A/C on normal with the windows or doors open. Locate the drain tube by looking for water dripping. Once located twist 2 or 3 pipe cleaners together and verify the tube is clean. Then close the doors/windows and switch to MAX A/C. Check for water dripping. If it stops dripping, water is freezing inside and now you know why!
I take it that condensate from the evaporator is leaking inside on the floor. Could be the drain tube is partially clogged. It is usually located on the fire-wall or down towards the floor pan under the car. It is usually close to where the A/C lines go thru the fire-wall. About 1/2 inch diameter sticking straight out but may have a 90 degree elbow pointing down. Also, it's been extra hot and humid all over and moisture could be freezing inside the unit when on MAX A/C, then suddenly melting when switched to normal. This opens the outside air door and allows warm/hot air into the unit instead of recirculating the cold air inside the car. The drain may not be able to handle a large, sudden quantity of water. Perform a "driveway" test. Open the hood, start engine and run the A/C on normal with the windows or doors open. Locate the drain tube by looking for water dripping. Once located twist 2 or 3 pipe cleaners together and verify the tube is clean. Then close the doors/windows and switch to MAX A/C. Check for water dripping. If it stops dripping, water is freezing inside and now you know why!
Could be the drain tube is partially clogged. It is usually located on the fire-wall or down towards the floor pan under the car. It is usually close to where the A/C lines go thru the fire-wall. About 1/2 inch diameter sticking straight out but may have a 90 degree elbow pointing down. Also, its been extra hot and humid all over and moisture could be freezing inside the unit when on MAX A/C, then suddenly melting when switched to normal. This opens the outside air door and allows warm/hot air into the unit instead of recirculating the cold air inside the car. The drain may not be able to handle a large, sudden quantity of water. Perform a "driveway" test. Open the hood, start engine and run the A/C on normal with the windows or doors open. Locate the drain tube by looking for water dripping. Once located twist 2 or 3 pipe cleaners together and verify the tube is clean. Then close the doors/windows and switch to MAX A/C. Check for water dripping. If it stops dripping, water is freezing inside and now you know why!
Where is water dripping? Out the outside unit or inside? Evap. Coils (indoor coils) condense when cooling so it is necessary to have a condensate drain hooked up. If the unit is leaking out of something besides the drain like out of the coil case then you have a blockage in your condesate line either in the drain pan under the coil or somewhere in the line that leads to your drain. blow the line both ways with nitrogen or pull the line out and clean it with a hose.
First we have to determine if the problem is a faulty water valve. Reason: faulty water valve can continue to supply water even after the IM or door dispenser is finished calling for water causing a drip feed freeze up problem, or water overflow condition in the ice maker (IM). Another common cause is unrelated, but caused by a blocked drain line often resulting in thick ice build up on the bottom of the freezer, water dripping onto the floor, or water dripping into the refrigerator (top freezer mount models only) and freezing near the lights or damper ducts after defrost. Fix for this problem is to remove evap panel and clear freezer drain line with hot water or compressed air. If this is not the case, and water is dripping out of IM supply line, remove IM H20 supply line from IM at back of appliance and see if the water seems to drip out, if so, replace the water valve. If water doesn't drip out at all, replace IM, or IM module depending on the model of refrigerator that you have as contacts in the IM are also responsible for calling for H20 supply. You will have no more problems after this.
Yes coils could be dirty, but your drain is clogged. To clean the drain cut the pvc line and blow the drain line out. You can put bleach in the drain pan every 6 months to keep it clean.
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