Horn not conn ected

IT MEANS THE 19YEAR OLD THERMOSTAT IS DEAD.
OR ECT DEAD.
SEEM YOU FORGOT THE ECT
IN FACT FIRST THING iS I CHECK IS SCAN PID ECT
IF IT SHOWS BELOW 180F THE ECT IS BAD OR THERMOSTAT BAD OR INSTALLED WRONG WAY OR DID NOT BURP ALL AIR
.LEARN TO SCAN SENSOR USING TOOLS PID MODE.
IF AIR IS AT THE ECT IT WILL LIE, TO YOU AND READ LOW.
ECT CAN NOT READ AIR ONLY COOLANT AF50%..

THE CARS PCM MONITOR THE COOLANT TEMP FULL TIME
AND AS ENGINE WARMS AND GETS NEAR FULLY WARM
THE PCM GOES TO CLOSED LOOP.
IF NOT 0125 IS THE WARNING

1. MISSING THERMOSTAT OR THOSE SILLY FAIL SAFE STUCK OPEN..STATS , COOLANT STUCK AT 140f
2. ECT BAD , EASY TEST . SCAN IT YET (pid SCAN)
3. WIRES TO ECT CUT THE CONN FELL OFF OR IS 1/2 SEATED ONLY . BINGO?
4. AIR SURROUNDING ECT IT FAILS. BURP ALL AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM, 100% NO AIR AND IS A SKILL SET , YOUTUBE IT:?

Holton French Horns - Band Instruments - Conn-Selmer, Inc.

www.conn-selmer.com/en-us/our-instruments/.../french-horns/?...Holton Learn more about Holton and CG Conn french horns.

put power from battery direct to horn, if it works clean connector that attaches to horn. very common problem

WHAT SIZE ENGINE???? ? 4L 2.5L????

ive seen this post many times now.and can not figure it out.
double posted.
what are you trying to do, say that first. or just ask a question
first off,what does bypass mean???? <<very confusing to me...????
This is THE ECT, the ENGINE. Coolant Temperature" sensor.

what do you wish to do with this very critical EFI sensor.???????
just test it.>
Ill guess, you have not read the FSM , as it covers that 2 ways.
the ECT can be tested 3 ways.
ill show 2
1: on car and off car.
1: on car. (is more easy. if strong back)
DMM set to RESISTANCE , aka. ohms. ohmega symbol
the DMM meter is $20 at walfart.
cold car, say at about 50f.
you unplug the ECT connector (2 pin conn)
cold engine it might read, 5000 ohm, this is good,
get engine fully hot. i use a IR pyro gun, it hit 180F or more.
and kill engine.
pull back off the ECT sensor. conn.
and it reads (2 pins 2 meter leads) about 300 ohms.
is this what you want.



first google hit on sensor , but FSM shows truth....
1st hit shows....... its a NTC thermistor with these rules.
212 farenheit 185 ohms
160 farenheit 450 ohms
100 farenheit 1600 ohms
70 farenheit 3400 ohms
40 farenheit 7500 ohms
20 farenheit 13,500 ohms
0 farenheit 25,000 ohms
-40 farenheit 100,700 ohms



the FSM is here
the 93 will be close.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

click fuse system there.
click on pdf page number. 46/66 BINGO ECT TESTS>

off car tests are easy, in a pan of room temp water then hot the in
ice water.
i do 3 tests. 32F(ice) 79F (room) and 200F (near boiling)
super easy test. ask how. if any step seems confusing.

USA answer, not in usa , ignore my post or post country?
it can only be 3 problems, alldata.com covers the simple tests.
1: bad sender (if scan tool shows ECT reads right, its not this)
2: bad wires (conns) ECU/pcm to gauge.
3:bad gauge.
see:
factory FSM or alldata.com.

here is your type system, its no longer independent like in older years
quote:
The coolant temperature information is conveyed to the instrument panel, through the PCM, from the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge sending unit. To test the gauge sending unit, first test the gauge operation to make sure the problem is not in the gauge or gauge wiring.
end quote.

my guess ? bad connection to I/P gauge cluster (rear)
do this only after scanning (any scan tool works) the ECU OBD2 port to see if temperature is normal at the ECT but Guage lies.
that is it. only testing wires an gauge, works from this point.

help us try to help you, what is it doing? honking when ever it wants or what? I would hunt down the horn and check the wires..
fuses, ect

remove only the battery neg/ lug.
find horn
pullwires at conn's.
unbolt it.
reverse procedure

all cars. it can be only 1 of 4 things, a volt meter finds this in 5min.
1: bad horn.
2: bad horn relay. (if car has it, some dont)
3: bad horn switch.
4: bad wires /conns to same.
to find this a tech uses a voltmeter.
he/she measures the voltage at the horn, if good, the horns is bad or not grounded.
if no 12v to horn (across it) when blown, you work backwards to the
point of fail.

Before you go buying a new horn make sure you check the relay switch to the horn if it has a weak connection the horn of course will be weak also you may want to check if there's a loose connection. Hope this was helpful

Good Luck =)

check ign. fuse,if ok,check elect. connector at starter selenoid, the plug on conn.for corrosion,usually its that!the starters on those models are usually long lasting!