Question about Pioneer SD-P50A3-K TV

2 Answers

At turn on,power LED goes from red to green,HV comes up,then back to red light

(1)Chassis removed,cleaned and soldered (2)Power/Convergence pcb overhauled,ie pins re-soldered on all four regulators on large heat sink,conv.Ic's replaced w/tosh stk-392-110T,touch-up soldering complete. (3)any/all fuses/fusibles checked,regulators seem to check normally What am I missing??

Posted by Vista Electronics on

  • 2 more comments 
  • Vista Electronics Sep 26, 2007

    Andrews Electronics reports no knowledge of
    T at end of IC==factory reject.More likely a
    generic priced at less than half of any OEM
    IC is a second or factory reject.I normally use NAP,PAN,Hitachi,or Toshiba OEM.I will pursue your line of reasoning and report my
    findings.

  • Vista Electronics Sep 26, 2007

    Toshiba 28.68
    Panasonic 28.65
    NAP 24.20
    Hitachi 23.24
    Generic 9.49
    It would seem the problem you describe would
    be with Toshiba,not Andrews.

  • Vista Electronics Sep 29, 2007

    Convergence IC's replaced w/Hitachi #CZ01341=
    STK394-160 (sub for STK392-110)made by SANYO.
    No help solving the problem,however!!
    It would seem I'm barking up the wrong tree with
    the wrong dog!Symptom is==upon turn on,HV comes
    up,then set goes into shutdown protect mode with
    red LED protect light on.By the way,the exact
    model # is SD-P62A5-K. I have been working with
    the chassis only,counting on fix being common==
    Please help.Thanks.

  • Vista Electronics Oct 03, 2007

    ANYONE have a thought on this one??

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2 Answers

Anonymous

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This is protection default. There is a circuit inside most modern tv sets that upon detection of excessive current (short) from any section of the tv, it shuts down.

Once the protection system has been activated it usually requires service and such service is usually quite expensive. In the tv industry this phenomenon is called "the kiss of death".

However, before you start to panic, do the following:

ONE: A hard reset. Merely unplug the power cord for at least 2 hours; sometimes it takes a full 4 hours.  This will reset the protection and all other circuits in the tv and when you power it back up it will restore everything internally to the factory preset conditions.

TWO:  If the hard reset does nothing, try the Whack and Smack test. This will check for bad connections internally and cold solder joints.  Just whack the set vigorously with your hand or fist in a variety of places.  Doing so will often awaken a bad connection.

If the above procedures do not help then you will need a service tech, one that is authorized by Pioneer, to inspect it and take measurements in determination of the problem.

Common failures are power supply, high voltage and deflection amplifiers.  Cost of repairs are always over $200 and can go as high as $600 depending on the specific ailment found.

Hope this will give you some valuable guidance.

 

All the best

Posted on Oct 14, 2007

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  • 3,130 Answers

The T at the end of those STK means they are made in China. Start there first. Those are factory reject or aftermarket type ICs. You should always use the Sanyo IC's. Those are original replacement ICs. We all know how China has been making things these days. You can get the right IC's from here http://www.electronic-repair-kits.com/STK392-110.htm If you still have a problem after that, you will need to get a service manual and send it to me to have a look. Good Luck

Posted on Sep 26, 2007

  • Anonymous Sep 26, 2007

    Of course Andrew electronics are going to say they know nothing about the cheapo IC's.

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1. Red status LED, self-diagnosis error 44, check for open F9A06 on the Power PCB part # 283P128050 on the Power PCB 2. Red lamp LED, self diagnosis error 34. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921002 3. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature, this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector LE pin 3 and 4 on the Control PCB, if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D776001 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector LE pin 3 and 4 check good. Suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C121001 6. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnect the USB connector from the card reader to the front from the Chassis, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds replace the Card Reader part # 299P271010. 7. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnecting the USB connector from the Card Reader did not help. Remove connector FC from the FMT PCB and plug the unit in, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds with FC removed suspect a problem on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002), if the LED keeps blinking with connector FC removed suspect a problem on the DM PCB (part # 934C116002). 8. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the DM PCB (part # 934C116002) check C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4 (1000 UFD, 16V, 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C). See Service Tip VS-78A 9. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002) check C8F19, C8F21, C8F22, and C8F27 (16V 1000 UFD 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C) See Service Tip VS-78A

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ok! maybe you have defective convergence correction circuit! sir do you have experience in electronic repairing?

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My mitsubishi 46 inch wont turn on, when you click power on green power button light goes off then flashes 3 times


This is not something that I believe the average joe can do aYoiu need to have it serviced. the fix is below and i amn sure you wil then understand why I said get a tech.


Cause #1 1. Red status LED, self-diagnosis error 44, check for open F9A06 on the Power PCB part # 283P128050 on the Power PCB 2. Red lamp LED, self diagnosis error 34. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921002 3. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature, this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector LE pin 3 and 4 on the Control PCB, if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D776001 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector LE pin 3 and 4 check good. Suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C121001 6. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnect the USB connector from the card reader to the front from the Chassis, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds replace the Card Reader part # 299P271010. 7. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnecting the USB connector from the Card Reader did not help. Remove connector FC from the FMT PCB and plug the unit in, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds with FC removed suspect a problem on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002), if the LED keeps blinking with connector FC removed suspect a problem on the DM PCB (part # 934C116002). 8. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the DM PCB (part # 934C116002) check C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4 (1000 UFD, 16V, 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C). See Service Tip VS-78A 9. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002) check C8F19, C8F21, C8F22, and C8F27 (16V 1000 UFD 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C).

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Turn on the power and the green LED blinks on the front for a second, but tv does not power on


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MOST OF THESE SETS HAVE A SELF DIAGNOSTIC:


UNPLUG TV AND THEN PLUG BACK IN---TURN ON---GREEN POWER LIGHT COMES ON FOR A MOMENT AND GOES OFF.

PRESS AND HOLD “device” and “menu” buttons on front of tv for at least 5 seconds and then release both together.


Watch for power light to blink in a sequence:

1 blink-then 2 blinks-------no error

2 blink-then 1 blink-------X-ray protection

2 blink-then 2 blink-------SHORT PROTECTION*******

2 blink-then 3 blink---------deflection circuit problem

2 blink-then 4 blink---------vertical circuit problem


******2, then 2 is most common---usually means one of the fuses that protect the Convergence IC or IC’s is blown---set will detect no voltage to convergence IC and shut down.


SET WILL REPEAT BLINK ERROR CODE UP TO 5 TIMES AND THEN TO GET IT TO REPEAT MORE YOU HAVE TO UNPLUG SET AND TRY TO TURN ON AGAIN.


IF IT IS 2 AND THEN 2---USUALLY
CONVERGENCE CIRCUIT PROBLEM

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1 Answer

Help w/ the flashing green light


Good Day;

Cause #1 1. Red status LED, self-diagnosis error 44, check for open F9A06 on the Power PCB part # 283P128050 on the Power PCB 2. Red lamp LED, self diagnosis error 34. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921002 3. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature, this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector LE pin 3 and 4 on the Control PCB, if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D776001 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector LE pin 3 and 4 check good. Suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C121001 6. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnect the USB connector from the card reader to the front from the Chassis, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds replace the Card Reader part # 299P271010. 7. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnecting the USB connector from the Card Reader did not help. Remove connector FC from the FMT PCB and plug the unit in, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds with FC removed suspect a problem on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002), if the LED keeps blinking with connector FC removed suspect a problem on the DM PCB (part # 934C116002). 8. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the DM PCB (part # 934C116002) check C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4 (1000 UFD, 16V, 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C). See Service Tip VS-78A 9. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002) check C8F19, C8F21, C8F22, and C8F27 (16V 1000 UFD 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C). Good Luck, big IRISH.

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2 Answers

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Good Day;

You may have a bad lamp. What lights show on front panel? Check this when no come on:

1. Red status LED, self-diagnosis error 44, check for open F9A06 on the Power PCB part # 283P128050 on the Power PCB 2. Red lamp LED, self diagnosis error 34. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921002 3. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature, this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector LE pin 3 and 4 on the Control PCB, if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D776001 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector LE pin 3 and 4 check good. Suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C121001 6. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnect the USB connector from the card reader to the front from the Chassis, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds replace the Card Reader part # 299P271010. 7. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnecting the USB connector from the Card Reader did not help. Remove connector FC from the FMT PCB and plug the unit in, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds with FC removed suspect a problem on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002), if the LED keeps blinking with connector FC removed suspect a problem on the DM PCB (part # 934C116002). 8. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the DM PCB (part # 934C116002) check C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4 (1000 UFD, 16V, 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C). See Service Tip VS-78A 9. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002) check C8F19, C8F21, C8F22, and C8F27 (16V 1000 UFD 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C) See Service Tip VS-78A .

Good Luck, big IRISH.

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1 Answer

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Good Day;

Bad news this TV has multi problems, check these:

1. Red status LED, self-diagnosis error 44, check for open F9A06 on the Power PCB part # 283P128050 on the Power PCB 2. Red lamp LED, self diagnosis error 34. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921002 3. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature, this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector LE pin 3 and 4 on the Control PCB, if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D776001 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector LE pin 3 and 4 check good. Suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C121001 6. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnect the USB connector from the card reader to the front from the Chassis, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds replace the Card Reader part # 299P271010. 7. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnecting the USB connector from the Card Reader did not help. Remove connector FC from the FMT PCB and plug the unit in, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds with FC removed suspect a problem on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002), if the LED keeps blinking with connector FC removed suspect a problem on the DM PCB (part # 934C116002). 8. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the DM PCB (part # 934C116002) check C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4 (1000 UFD, 16V, 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C). See Service Tip VS-78A 9. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002) check C8F19, C8F21, C8F22, and C8F27 (16V 1000 UFD 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C). Good Luck, big IRISH.

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1 Answer

Pioneer P50A5-K goes to stand by mode


1) Pull chassis---remove power/convergence PCB==the one

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2) Remove solder from pins of four regulators on heatsink.

3)Clean board/pins w/ toothbrush & alcohol.

4)Re-solder, also solder both Stk's for prevent.

5)Re-assemble

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1 Answer

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29 Answers

Blinking Green Light on Mitsubishi DLP 52525


Even if you replace the capacitors already mentioned in this
thread, you may still suffer from the Green LED of Death. Here is how Bronson279 helped me resolve the
problem. But note that it involves
adding a switch to your tv set and requires a bit of soldering ability and the
willingness to void your warranty. BUT
you can save big $$$$ on sending the set out for repair.

Here is my solution-
After replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors
from Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance
values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105
degrees C.) I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D. Note that the first time I plugged it in
after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up
normally. But when I had to unplug the
set to fully re assemble it, it came back.




The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and
the DM (Digital Module) board’s microprocessors tying to establish
communications with each other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each
thinking that the other board needs to be reset and then starting the boot
process over again.





You need to interrupt this cycle with a switch. Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or Mouser
Elec…) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it apart
replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up having to
disassemble the whole thing again.) On
the FMT board along the top edge near the input connector side of the chassis
there is a four wire connector labeled “FC”.
It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire. Leave the black wires connected and cut the orange and brown ones about an
inch from the connector. Solder four 12
inch wires onto the ends (one on the source side brown, source side orange and
one on the connector side brown and connector side orange) use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder
connection points. (If you can’t get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but
make sure the joints can’t short out to each other or the electrical chassis.) Now take the brown and orange wires from the
connector side and solder those to the middle two terminals of the DPDT switch
(one on each side not both to both terminals) Then pick one side of the outside
terminals of the switch and solder the source side brown and orange wires to
the terminal across from the same color (brown across from brown and orange
across from orange) See the diagram below.
The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and
break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering
the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you
can cover the solder point up after it is assembled.

























45186c7.jpg






Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires
outside the chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to
get the wires out.) and put it back in the TV.
You need to also get the switch to the outside of the TV somehow (I
drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the switch through but you
can do it however you like)





Here is how to use it-
From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN position (the wires
are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should stop blinking after 60
secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the switch the other way so
the wires are connecting. Hit the power
button. The TV should turn on- your done!
Yeah!

From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out,
state. Assuming you have the GLOD, flip
the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the front of the tv,
wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and turn the TV on
normally… Again you are done…

Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to
flip the switch the other way (if the TV won’t turn on even without a blinking
LED) This means that the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get
it to work. If you tried turning on the
TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset button procedure
above.

Note this is much easier to do than it sounds. Also note that it helps if you have the
repair manual. Its titled V26 Repair
Manual –full This is nice to have
because it has a wiring interconnect diagram also which details all the
connector placements

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