One element shown fault code F153 every time it is turned on. I've tried shut the circuit several times and it keeps coming back. I was wondering whether there is something I could do before I call the service guy.
I also have the same problem. Turning off the power at the circuit breaker to allow the cooktop to reset itself didn't work.I also have the same problem. Turning off the power at the circuit breaker to allow the cooktop to reset itself didn't work.
I have the same problem with F153 error code right front large burner model JP939CH1CC!!!I have the same problem with F153 error code right front large burner model JP939CH1CC!!!
AnonymousJan 01, 2008
Same problem here. Does anyone have a solution. I am calling for service, I guess. email me with any ideas...please. Thanks! [email protected]Same problem here. Does anyone have a solution. I am calling for service, I guess. email me with any ideas...please. Thanks! [email protected]
AnonymousMar 30, 2008
I have the same problem, but haven't a clue about how to change the burner assembly. Should I call for service?I have the same problem, but haven't a clue about how to change the burner assembly. Should I call for service?
I have model JP938WOC1WW. My left front burner has the F153 error code. The cooktop is 5 years old. I was searching the web for a site such as this to help me fix it. I won't go thru the aggravation of trying to get a GE repair man here. Rather try to fix it myself.
I have model JP938WOC1WW. My left front burner has the F153 error code. The cooktop is 5 years old. I was searching the web for a site such as this to help me fix it. I won't go thru the aggravation of trying to get a GE repair man here. Rather try to fix it myself.
I have model JP938 Same issue burner comes on then flashes error code rest power same thingI have model JP938 Same issue burner comes on then flashes error code rest power same thing
Hi - I've been having the same problem. GE tech service in St. Louis, MO has been a joke. 1st tech call cancelled 30 minutes before appointment. 2nd tech call to diagnose the F153 code I had already provided when I scheduled service on-line cost $74.95 and the tech didn't have the part on his truck. 3rd tech call a new tech shows up, has no knowledge of previous call diagnosis, opens the box sent to my home by GE and announces that the previous guy ordered the wrong part! We're on the 4th call. My cook top right front burner has not worked for a month. I've contacted GE corporate. The part you need (at least I need) for the right front burner which is a large burner is: WB30T10062. If I knew how to, I'd repair this myself. I don't have the extended warranty. The part is covered because my cooktop is only two years old (parts warrantied for five years) but labor is estimated to cost almost $200....plus the $74.95 "diagnostic" visit. A total rip-off. My advice, if you've got this cooktop, it's still under warranty and you aren't using all of the burners on a regular basis: start using them! The tech guy said most people use that front right burner alot and it eventually malfunctions (code F153). His suggestion was to start using the other burners on a regular basis, too, so that when they go out, at least the part will fall under the five-year warranty! When this cook top is done, I'm going to get a gas stove with "old fashioned burners" and it won't be GE!
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have an accredited electrician check the unit for a problem in the current usage when all burners are running ( elements shorting out through failing insulation, excessive resistance etc)
The circuit breaker should have sufficient capacity for all burners on at full heat but if one is shorting out through a developing fault , that may be exceeding the breaker capacity
I would have this unit checked because the electronic control is 300.00 for this unit. I ran into this and the control was the fault not the wiring to the elements, but I can't tell you to change this because I won't miss lead you like that. Several tests need to be done to rule out a shorted element before the replacement of the control unit p#W10365424, most electronics are not returnable due to there nature of people swopping them and returning them. I think a service call is needed to be sure of the issue you have.
I took the cooktop apart I removed the terminal from the main electronic board . The left front burner has 2 white wires and 2 yellow (my case). The 2 white wires lead to the RTD sensor.With an electric meter set on OHMS check continuity between the two wires leading to the RTD sensor .If the reading is more than 1030 ohms is good if not than you need to replace the whole burner that comes as a complete unit with sensor and ribbon heating element.I found it on line for $114.00 +shipping.I wish they sold only the sensor but it would've been too cheap and not worth it for the makers . All connections to that burner are very easy put back together . Some suppliers may ask for as much as $175-$195 for the complete unit .
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code. As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode. This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven. The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit). The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms. The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness, harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad. If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously. If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle), remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes, then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner. The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied, the surface material can break down causing shorts. If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel -don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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I have the same problem!!!!
I also have the same problem. Turning off the power at the circuit breaker to allow the cooktop to reset itself didn't work.
I have the same problem.
I have the same problem with F153 error code right front large burner model JP939CH1CC!!!
Same problem here. Does anyone have a solution. I am calling for service, I guess. email me with any ideas...please. Thanks! [email protected]
I have the same problem, but haven't a clue about how to change the burner assembly. Should I call for service?
I have model JP938WOC1WW. My left front burner has the F153 error code. The cooktop is 5 years old. I was searching the web for a site such as this to help me fix it. I won't go thru the aggravation of trying to get a GE repair man here. Rather try to fix it myself.
I have model JP938 Same issue burner comes on then flashes error code rest power same thing
My GE range is 3 years old and both front burner have F153 code. Can not reset.
my 30 in.profileJP938shows fault code F153.What could be the problem?
cooktop shows f153 fault.
I have the same problem on one burner
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