The cd turns but no sound comes out, only a hum. Tried to take apart but screws are deeply imbedded and even after wd 40, they won't loosen. How do they expect anyone to be able to repair these things?

Disconnect the power locate the motor. Remove the belt. Try turning the motor by hand that's a turn kind of hard lubricate both spindles with some WD-40 maybe even some penetrating oil then turn it as you spread if it loosens up you know it was a lubrication problem if not then you have to replace motor or the bel remove the belt. Try turning the motor by hand is a turn kind of hard lubricate both spindles with some WD-40 maybe even some penetrating oil then turn it as you spread if it loosens up you know it was lubrication problem if not then you maybhave to replace motor

use wd-40 or p.b.blaster to loosen but it is very (very) common to have to use a grinder or a roto-zip-saw metal cutting blade top cut-off an electrode bolt. even high-end grills are not using nigh-quality, expensive stainless for an electrode bracket or a screw.

Sadly this is life. I've never had them come apart, they always break. New ones are inexpensive at your local hardware store. Some of them even have all the bolts as a kit.

I have taken one apart. reassembled and the fan would not turn, although there was power to the motor and it wanted to turn.
Sorry this is long...only this is about taking the motor itself apart..and I have yet to find a replacement motor.

1. Tried a little WD 40...(only on iron motor Housing!) nothing.
2. Took apart inside of motor. some rust inside..
3. carefully rubbed clean with WD 40..
4. leaned off WD 40 with contact cleaner...
5. Then worked little bearing loose on back side.
-Kind of turned upon reassembly..
6. Found some silicone High temp lubricant and took motor inside part again.
7. a very thin coat of lubricant inside rotor.
-Re assembled yet again..began to turn at high speed, kept running..24 hrs..
- It .finally turned at silent mode. and continues to work
This may be ar beyond what you want to do, however if all else fails...what else can you do? buy another one?
Tips:
1. mark rotor holders with housing. (do not reverse.)
2. make sure you remove all lint, dust, etc inside.
3. the rotor bearing I had to work by hand again and again repeatedly syringing a little WD 40 at a time to until it turned easily.

is it the forks or wheel? if forks spray with wd 40, if wheel probably bearing siezed

Check and make sure the set screw is tight. Sometimes the screw will loosen and cause the problem you are describing.
However, to get the blade off - take out the set screw - spray some WD-40 in the hole - getting as much on in the hole (and on the shaft) as possible. Work the blade on the motor shaft (use a crescent to turn the shaft within the hub of the blade) and it should slide off the shaft.
If the blade is rusted on the shaft - do the above - but let it sit (with WD-40 on it) for awhile, i.e. several hours or even overnight if possible.
Note: sometimes there is a little disassembly (of the unit) you have to do to work the blade out.

No, it is either the speed control, capacitor or motor. You can get parts, if it worth your time, try nelsonappliance.com and part # LW007JRMOTOR

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/josh_87ce33216d7b2148

It sounds like the starter hub is binding on the crankshaft.take the starter housing off and look at the starter hub assembly,tap the starter hub off the crankshaft by using a block of hardwood,tapping it off in a counterclockwise direction,check the crankshaft section that the square starter hub rides on, clean it and follow up with a fine emery cloth,lube slightly with wd-40,be careful not to get wd-40 on the flywheel key area.If the starter hub comes apart and the ball bearings come out,dont worry you can put them back in after you screw the hub pack on crankshaft.