The problem could be several things that you will need to consider. The=> W10267646 Control Board or here=> W10267646 Control Board The door switches and the dispenser control board=> W10271914 Dispenser Control or here=> W10271914 Dispenser Control Finding what is causing this will be tricky so I am here if you would like me to help you tackle the electrical diagnostics that is causing this problem. If you would like the service manual and assistance please let me know. Repair Clinic will let you return items not used in the repair, Sea Breeze
You will need to replace the control board located in the freezer. Here is that part to order.
SOURCE: No water or ice through door
sounds like the dispenser assembly is not sensing that the trap door is opening fully, so it wont send power to the auger motor or fill valve. If you are pretty handy, you can disassemble the door and take out the dispenser assembly and try to take the assembly apart and correct the throw on the trap door. Otherwise, I'm afraid you need a new dispenser to the tune of about $250 parts and $225 trip and labor. Good luck!
SOURCE: Ice/water dispenser sticks
Something kinda frozen treat probably melted and worked it's way into you dispenser area... seen it before. That's where the "sticky" is coming from. UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! MAKE A NOTE OF HOW EVERYTHING COMES APART! Remove the drip tray (if any)and remove any screws you may find there. Now get a small flat blade screwdriver, and pry the fascia panel off the door from the BOTTOM FIRST (you may see notches under there for a screwdriver to fit into) and work your way around it gently until it comes off. Now remove the screws that are facing you to pull the control panel out. When it's out, it'll see be hooked up to the wiring harness. Look for a small brown micro-switch with either 2 or 3 terminals on it. The switch is brown, about an inch long and 3/8" thick... this is the culprit. From here you can do a couple of things. 1.) replace the sticky switch. 2.) Take the wires off of it and remove the switch completely. Then, using a moistened towel, clean it real well and let it dry completely. Then reinstall it and rebuild the dispenser area. Sounds tough, but it should take no more than 45 minutes to do.
SOURCE: No water to door dispenser
The water lines might be frozen. The found the water lines in my fridge behind the bottom drawers and used a hair dryer to melt the ice.
SOURCE: Ice Dispenser not dispensing ice
Remove the top freezer door hinge cover and disconnect the plug there . This will remove power to the dispensor . Remove the dispensor grill , and also the 2 screws at the bottom of the dispensor front . Lift the front up and out , and remove the plug on the front . You should now see the white switch bracket . On the left side , is the ice dispensor motor switch , when usually , one of the spears holding the switch breaks off , not allowing the ice dispensor to work . If this is the case , the part number is 2180226 . Only held on by 2 screws . When/if replaceing , be sure to put the plastic spacers in the correct position next to both switches , and be careful not to break one of the spears , holding the switches .
SOURCE: water/ice dispenser sticking on
We had a problem with the water/ice dispenser on our 5-year-old LG SxS Refrigerator (LRSC 26930TT). In a panic to stop the water flow, the rubber activator boot was pulled off. The dispenser stopped once the button attached to the back of the boot was removed. Nothing was physically broken (i.e., parts intact) but the challenge was to get things (especially the boot) back in place. The key for me was to use patience: researched Internet for pointers (not too helpful), looked for schematics (even less fruitful) and exhaustively examined the panel on refrigerator (to help reverse engineer). Okay, here’s how I disassembled and reassembled without breaking any tabs or other pieces. Assuming your unit is similar, the panel is on the freezer door on the left side. You can lock the dispenser (using panel button) to preclude undesired water/ice while working. Note: the outer bezel (edge of panel) is secured by screws and should not be messed with. The main panel has tabs on all four sides. I used three screwdrivers (small to average in size) to pry the panel off. Pry the main panel working through the seam between the bezel and panel. Work your way around starting from the lower left or upper left corner. Each side of the panel has 3 or 4 tabs. Methodically work your way around using moderate force to pop the tabs loose. Once the panel is loose, you’ll need to disconnect the electrical connector at the upper left. The plug comes off and reattaches easily…don’t pull on the wires, use the plastic connector itself. Wiggle the panel free. Now you can get to the back of the boot retention bezel…the ultimate goal. Carefully push the bezel’s securing tabs (x3) through the panel and reattach the rubber boot. I used needle nose pliers to carefully pull each rubber nib through their applicable hole on the bezel. Now leave the boot/bezel assembly to the side—it’s the last step to reassembly. Note how the main panel tabs fit into their receiving slots/flanges. Reattach the electrical connector, snaps right on, and maneuver center of panel into recessed area, around ice chute/water nozzle. Slide the right and bottom sides on first—flanges, not slots for tabs—then align remainder of panel. Using moderate force, pop (punch) the remaining tabs back into their respective slots. The main panel will seat over the bezel. Now align and snap boot/bezel back into place. Finis! (No guarantees, but this procedure worked like a charm for me.)
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