Question about Hitachi 61SDX01B 61" Rear Projection Television

1 Answer

No audio, no video

My house got hit by lightning, even though I had a surge protector it affected my TV. The fuse on the power supply circuit board is good. It has several LED's illuminated on the power supply circuit board, but the rest of the TV shows no sign of power getting to it. Need a suggestion, thank you.

Posted by antevi on

  • 2 more comments 
  • antevi Sep 26, 2007

    On the Power Supply Board all LED's come on, but there is one LED (D913) that only blinks twice, with less intensity the second time, after that initial blinking it never comes on.
    On one of the main boards (DPOX Deflection P.W.B.)there is another LED (DP37) that never comes on, and it is near the IC STR F6629B, any suggestions.

  • antevi Oct 08, 2007

    This is what I have done so far, I change the convergence IC's STD 392-110. No help.

    For troubleshooting purpose, I removed the bigger black jumper from the middle boards, then I turn TV on and I get audio just fine. Should I still change E993, D911, & C917 ?, since they are related to audio.
    I will try changing them, but I noticed D911 is actually a part of ED91, its set up on top, I would imaging I will desolder from the top, not from the circuit board.

  • antevi Oct 09, 2007

    LED DP37 (red) on the live section of deflection board does not come on.
    LED DP29 (GREEN) on the cold section of deflection board does not come on.
    LED D913 on power supply board blinks only twice when I turn the TV on and then it remains off.
    Fuse E993 is good. Should I still change D911 and C917 ?

  • antevi Oct 10, 2007

    service manual, troubleshooting section leads me to check voltage at pin 4 of IP01, and it should be between 14V and 18V. I have less than 3 volts at pin 4 of IP01. So, with this scenario, then it leads me to check zener diode DP04, resistors RP02 and RP03, and capacitor CP05.
    The resistors are good. I do not know about the capacitor or the zener diode.
    The capacitor CP05 is no longer available, I can not get it any where. I hope it is good.
    I also replaced the IC STR F6629B (IP01), but no help.

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Can you find out what Led is not on or which comes up and goes out? Most of these sets have convergence problems. Or Power Regulators.

Posted on Sep 23, 2007

  • 1 more comment 
  • Anonymous Oct 08, 2007

    Audio Rear and Center 29V Regulator SW+29V indicated by D913 (DP-06 and DP07 Only)
    The Audio Rear and Center 29V supply is generated from pin (16) of T901. This output is protected by E993, rectified by D911 and filtered by C917. This supply is routed to the Rear Audio Output IC IS16 and Center Audio Output IC IC15.
    This voltage is what illuminates the Green Visual Trouble Shooting LED, D913. So change E993, D911, and C917 first.

  • Anonymous Oct 09, 2007

    Yes E993 is a fuse, you can check it, D911 is a diode, it can leak and not show up when testing, I read again what you said at first and second and want to get it straight. Now what LED's are lit? And which goes out? This could mean that there is a problem in that area, but not enough to cause the set to stop working. My mistake, check the fuse though, let me know again the ones that stay on.

  • Anonymous Oct 10, 2007

    OK,DP37 Indicating Vcc applied to the Power Supply Driver IC IP01 Colored RED
    This LED indicates any of three different scenarios,Is there B+ (Vcc) available to the Deflection Power Supply Driver IC? LED will be ON. Is the B+ (Vcc) available to the Deflection Power Supply Driver IC missing? LED will be OFF.
    Is the Set in Shut Down? LED will be OFF.
    As can be see, there are two different scenarios that can cause DP37 to be off, (1) Missing Start up voltage for the Driver IC and/or (2) the Deflection Power Supply is in Shut Down.

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No audio, no video

Most likely the power supply. In most models, if the lamp goes out you will still get sound. However, the power supply is not a single piece swap. I would suggest getting a voltmeter, and check the voltage where the power cord meets the power supply. Then follow the circuit pathways, checking after each component, until you find a break in power. You are getting power to that light, so some power is getting through. However, the light works on much less voltage than the rest of the television, so probably there is a capacitor or transformer that's gone out.
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I replaced the power board with one from shop jimmy but still get no power/stand-by light at all. i can heard a very quiet rhythmic clicking from what sound like the power board.

1. Do you use a TV antenna like the outdoor or a Dish ?
2. Do you have power lines that supply to your house overhead or completely underground ?
3. Did the fuse at the house blow when you had the lighting power surge ?

If your answer is YES+ANY+YES - your logic board could also blown.
If your answer is NO+Underground+YES - your logic may not be damaged.

As Tom suggested, look for other obvious burnt components or even smell closely to confirm (if you have a nose for it :-))

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Why won't it power up?

Flat Panels are quite sensitive to power surge so if you didn't have it with a protector, it's quite probable that some of your TV's circuits suffered a "burnout".
If you don't have the technical knowledge to repair a TV, your only option is to take it to a repair service.
For future prevention, see some surge protectors at Amazon:

Top Rated in Surge Protectors
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The damage from a lightning strike tends to be random. Sometimes it's minor, and only a few parts are affected. Other times, many parts are ruined, or destined to fail soon as a result of the current surge.

If the strike came over the power line, the input surge protectors in the power supply should be replaced, even if they look good. It would be prudent to replace the entire power supply. If you had the set plugged into an external surge protector, that should have taken most of the hit and should also be replaced. (Some surge protector manufacturers will pay up to a certain amount for repair or replacement of equipment plugged into their products if it is damaged by lightning.)

If the lightning came over an unprotected input cable, fixing the set would be a gamble. You could end up changing a lot of modules, beginning with the main board.
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Our electricity went out for a few minutes, and since then the TV will not turn on. The green light is flashing. We tried resetting it by pushing a pen point into the reset hole, but it does nothing. ...

Your power outage may have been caused by a nearby lightning strike, or any number of
1000 different reasons that cause power surges, brown-outs, voltage spikes, inductive loading,
and/or utility pole breaker trips and resets (this accounts for your power loss (a pole breaker trip),
followed by restoration of power (the pole breaker automatically reset) - even plain old high electrical demand causing an overload due to air conditioning demands caused by hot weather.
When the pole breaker reset, your TV caught a power surge.
Whenever a power outage occurs, quickly power off (or better, unplug) any/all computers, TVs,
etc. that are not protected by surge-protection.
As an electrician, when someone loses an item of electronics concommitant to an electrical
anomaly, its almost
always traceable to a nearby lightning strike (or the power company provided equivalent), accompanied by inadequate surge protection for
the VCR/TV/Computer/Stereo/uninsured valuable electronic item/XBOX 360/Nintendo Wii.
Surge protection can
be provided by the consumer at the power strip (a good one with builtin MOV protection and a
warranty costs $20, whereas a zero-protection 4-outlet or 6-outlet power strip will cost $4-$5).
Your electrician can provide whole-house surge protection where a whole-house MOV-based (metal oxide varistor) surge protector, or per-circuit protection can be installed with
a GFCI breaker (or better, an AFCI breaker) can be installed.
GFCI = ground fault circuit interruptor
AFCI = Arc fault circuit interruptor
Lightning protection is especially important in Florida, which is the "lightning capital of the world."
I've never found a good solution to lightning-fried electronics (random power supply components are destroyed and/or fuse blown), other than renters insurance or homeowners insurance.

Your only real hope for an economical fix is to look for a blown fuse, and replace it.

If desperate to attempt a fix on your own, you could try replacing the entire TV power supply as a module, but even this provides
no guarantee of a fix - lightning damage can extend beyond the power supply.
When traveling, I will always unplug everything before I leave (except the security system),
and also turn off the breakers to unneeded house circuits (which kills the wall switches that
control interior lighting - forcing a burglar to use their flashlight instead of interior lighting)
which is the least convenient lightning protection, but highly effective, and cheap (free).
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If your receiver was connected to any power source and that power source was not a surge protector strip there may be damage to the receiver as lighting travels. Another thing to consider is the fact that many people will put their equipment on surge protectors but the cable is still connected to the TV etc...This is just another avenue for the lightning to get into the home and blow up your system. I always disconnect any cable from my computer and TV. The power source from the wall is also unplugged when there is a storm just to be sure. Surge protectors are limited in their use as well. I don't believe they can take too many lightning hits. It is best to change them out.
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