NO POWER TO HEATER ELEMENT TUB MODEL # 24446-0112B

im gonna suspect that if 87 is max thats air temperature so the heater is not working at all , thats where id start to troubleshoot see if heater is getting power at all if so then heater element is defective , and thats a very likely outcome on a 97 model i'll say

Water heater can be added to any incoming water line, either on hot or cold.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-under-counter-water-heater.html
Under-counter water heater located near tub will supply hot water just like ordinary household water heater. But it will not reheat water that circulates inside the spa tub.
Otherwise, a spa heater is made with electric element that can work with 120V or 240V. Water from tub circulates through tank that holds element. Element must be fully immersed in water.
To retrofit spa tub with this heater would require cutting water line near pump, running both ends of water line into tank with element.
Then of course you would need to retrofit adjustable thermostat to control when element is on. And integrate element operation into air control switch at tub that can override thermostat so element is not heating when tub is not in use.
Unless there is a pre-packaged kit to retrofit heater, I think adding heater would be difficult.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Sounds like the heating element has gone out again. Once you reset the circuit breaker and the tub turns on it will start to circulate the water. This usually runs like this for about 2 mins and then the tub will recognize it is cold and send power to the heater. If the element is back at that point it will blow the circuit breaker.
If this circuit breaker pops as soon as you turn it on then you most likely have a bad circuit board.

Rod
www.uspartscenter.com

Bad heating element. Shut the power to the breaker off, disconnect the wires off of the heating element and then check for (ohms) continuity across the two element leads. If it show OL on the meter then you here is an open in the element and it will need to be replaced. Good luck.

It sounds like there may be a short in it causing the breaker to trip. I would disconnect the wires from the new element, tape them up and test for the problem again. If it still trips it is not related to the heater element. If it still trips it is not related to the heater element and therefore additional diagnostics need to be used to find out what is is wrong.

First of all you did not even begin to mention a model number. They are not all the same. Having said that the concept of changing a heating element is pretty much the same for those with through the lower tub mounts.

1. Turn off all power to the unit
2. Open the lower kick panel
(It is usually in 2 pieces) The top piece being fixed and the lower piece being adjustable to the floor. Remove BOTH panels.
3. Locate the 2 heating element terminals that pass through the bottom of the tub and disconnect the wires.
4. Losen the retaining nuts on the heating element. Push up on the elment to make sure it is free before totally removing the nuts.
5. Remove the nuts and then lift out the old element by opening the door and lifting out the element.
6. Note the position of seals and washers on the OLD element
7, Assemble the new element with the tub side seals and washers. Leave the under side washers off until after you place the new element in the dishwasher.
8. Install the underside seal and washer then install the nuts loosely.
9. Check the position of the element inside the tub. (Align as necessary)
10. Tighten the heating element retaining nuts on the under side of the tub. (DO NOT over tighten as you can damage the element.)
11. Install the 2 heating element terminals makeing very sure the connections are TIGHT. A loose connection will cause the new element to fail prematurely.
12. Connect power and test for leaks.
13 Leak test complete install both lower kick panels.

Task Complete!

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly

Test across both terminals at the same time. If you are getting 230V, disconnect power and check the resistance across the terminals. For 4kW, you should get roughly 13 ohms. If not, the element is bad.
If you get 0 Volts across the terminals, the tub is not heating. ManyBalboa packs switch both leads to the same leg of power, so you can get 120V to ground from each terminal, but you get 0V from terminal to terminal.
The clincher here is that the "heater on" light is off. I would double-check the pressure switch. You should test it with the tub running in heat mode. Disconnect one of the flag terminal leads from the switch, THEN test for continuity across the terminals. If you get none, you have either low flow or a bad pressure switch. You can verify by jumping the two wires together and see if the "heat" light comes on. Again, check for flow. I would run any of these tests with the filter removed. The symptoms you describe are very commonly caused by a dirty filter causing low flow. Again, pressure switch test. A bad sensor would cause the "current temp" to read too high, and a hi-limit problem would cause the little "heater-on" light to flash. Unless that little light is just dead (I've never seen it go bad), everything you say points to the pressure switch (or a dirty filter).

I have the kenmore model about 4 years old now. the heater element isnt very hard to change out from what I have seen of it. ( i have had the dishwasher out about 5 times so far .)BUT it is very expensive! the heater element cost almost as much as the whole dishwasher. information I found on mine says the tub must be replaced if the element is replaced but it looked to me that this could be done without changing the tub when I looked at it. but its not worth it. I have my element wires unhooked as I write you,

In all liklihood, your problem is a breakdown in the insulation of the heating element. The elements tend to be mineral insulated then metal jacketed. Once you get a bit of corrosion on the jacket and a little water gets into the mineral powder, it's insulation properties fall off sharply, shorting out the power supply.

There are two practical ways of testing this:

The pro way of doing it is to borrow a high voltage insulation tester, disconnect the power leads from the element and check the resistance between one of the elements terminals and the jacket. Treat anything less than a megohm as a failure requiring replacement of the element. (nb. This is one of those rare cases where you need to use a proper insulation tester - an ordinary multimeter often fails to find this problem)

The alternative is just to replace the element and see how much difference it makes.

A.