There are usually 2 thermal fuses in dryer circuits. One is on the
heater housing and will blow in an overtemp condition around 310-350F.
The other is on the blower or exhaust housing and will blow around 200F
Make absolutely sure the 2nd one is continuous and not intermittently
functional. This will definitely stop the motor from functioning
Below is a diagram for an older model (LER4634). Your dryer has some
additional terminals probably because it has additional drying cycle
options.
The diagram may be more readable when copied and pasted into a plain
text editor such as Notepad or another editor with non-proportional
fonts
Switch Terminals
|TM |TM |BK |BK |BK |
|WB |OR |BU |BU |R |
|-- |-- |V |-- |-- |
|---|---|---|---|---|
|O |X |O |X |X |Auto - High Heat
|O |X |X |X |X |Auto - Low Heat
|---|---|---|---|---|
|<> |<> |~ |X |O |Cool Down / Fluff
|O |X |O |O |O |End of Cycle
|---|---|---|---|---|
|X |O |O |X |X |Timed - High Heat
|X |O |X |X |X |Timed - Low Heat
|---|---|---|---|---|
Legend:
O = Open (Infinite Resistance)
X = Closed (Continuous)
<> = Either (But not Both)
~ = Doesn't Matter
NA = Not Applicable
Switch Terminals:
TM - Timer Motor (Different Models may use different colors)
WB - Black/White
OR - Orange
BK - Black
BU - Blue
V - Violet/Purple
R - Red
Example: For the Auto - High Heat Dry cycle, the following terminals are continuous:
Terminals
<TM - OR>
<BK - BU>
<BK - R>
(of course since BK-BU is continuous and BK-R is continuous, then BU-R is also continuous.
This should allow you to test at least some of the cycles your timer switch has
I have a general schematic in PDF for whirlpool for gas and electric,
but did not see an option to add an attachment to this message.
Hope this helps or point you in the right direction.
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Same problem"I have a 5 year old Whirlpool Electric Dryer, Model #LER7648KT2. The Dryer won't start. I have checked the door switch, start button switch and visible thermo switches or thermostats with an ohm met"
THANKS, Anyway! Figured out the Problem. One of the switches located in the timer was bad.
Disconnect the energy source. I checked all the switches to make sure they opened and closed with an ohm meter. After checking all of my switches & visible thermostats I used the schematic to check the circuits in the timer. We placed a lead on the white and tan wire and as I turned the timer dial we noticed a change in the reading on the ohm meter. The switch that engages when the dryer goes into the wrinkle shield mode was malfunctioning. We placed a jumper from the tan wire to the white and energized the dryer. It worked in all cycles on the timer dial. We confirmed our find by removing the timer and exposing the internal switches in the dial. The copper switch was corroded preventing the circuit to close and the dryer to start up. Although the switch is around $100.00, it will be an easy repair. I would suggest taking a picture or making a diagram of the different color wires and where they attach to the new timer before pulling them off the old timer. A Prayer and an in-law that can read electrical drawings helps. Have a GREAT Day!
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