- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
My Dacor oven ECS227 would not preheat. Most website advice was the High Temp Cutout needed to be reset. That was not my problem. I found a schematic for the oven and determined the relay that controls the power to both the Broil and Bake elements was not conducting. I could hear the relay operate but the voltage for the two elements was not on the output side of the relay. I ordered a new Relay Board (92029) for $200 and after replacing the board the oven worked except it started smoking from the panel area and the smell was that of an electrical overheat. Further investigation revealed one of the slip-on connections on top of the relay was sparking and generating heat in the range of 150 degrees (measured with a IR temperature meter). It was melting the plastic around the connection which was the source of the smoke and the smell. I removed the wire, compressed the connection points a little, reconnected the wire and all is well. The plastic around the connection became very brittle from the heat and broke off while I was working on the wire connection but it still works. I found you can purchase the relay itself for about $5, so I did that just in case this should happen in the future. I will repair my old board and have it ready to go for a future replacement if needed and will also replace the connection clip at that time. The relay can be ordered from Mouser Electronic - their part number 655-T9AP1D22-18-01. The relay is stamped T9AP1D22-18 Potter Brumfield. Hope this helps anyone else when the resetting of the High Temp Cutout does not solve your problem.
Are you buying hi quality oven grade lamps for this purpose that'll take the intense heat inside an oven? I wonder if they're halogen or tungsten filament lamps. Defective solder, frosty joints and/or ring fractures on lamp driving areas of a circuit board ARE indeed capable of causing problems with lamps.
I have a DACOR double electric oven model ECD230SCH. the top oven lower element went out 1 and 1/2 years ago, but the top element broiler works. Yesterday the bottom oven did the same thing- bottom element not working along with convection. Pulled off doors and cut breaker. Checked thermal switch on top off oven- closed good. Pull out element and Ohm'ed out- good. Now pulled over and out oven top panel to get to the control boards. Found a nice set of schematics for the over control boards and electronics. Sat down and pin-pointed both relays that supply power to upper and lower oven "lower" heating elements. these are on 2 different boards- upper over relays on bigger board on the left with the transformer. Lower oven on the right smaller board. Hardest pain in the rear was just getting the little plastic stand offs to push back through the board to get it off. Finally got it off and inspected board. Low and behold the relay I pin-pointed had a burn/open connection on the solder joint. Re-soldered tested oven and lower oven lower heat element works now! Went to the next board and got that off and same exact problem on the rely for the top oven lower element. Re-solder and test- good!! Put everything together and ran over to 350 on top and lower and back to normal. Wife very happy she did not have to pay a repair man big bucks to swap out the control boards- would have had to replace both.
I have a degree in electronic technology so as a technician for many years did low and high voltage component level repairs. But pretty easy and you can visually see the open solder joint on the back of the board at the relay leg.
Jim B Roseville, CA.
I had this problem a year ago (both elements worked in top oven but only broil element worked in the lower of the dual ovens). I swapped elements around but the problem was still the bottom element bottom oven.
So I called the repairman. He replaced the relay board (Part #AP2127301) for the lower oven, and it worked again. Yippee.
But now a year later, I have the exact same problem. Lower element on lower oven is not working (Frigidaire you have got to be kidding)!
However this time I decided to take a look at the relay board myself, to at least save the expense of the repairman. I looked closely at the board and thought I saw a cold solder joint on relay K4. But just to be safe I touched up all the connections on all the relays with flux and a soldering iron.
Works perfectly again !!
Please if you try this, disconnect the power first. In fact if I had to tell you that, then just call somebody.
Which element..?? there are 3... Check for voltage to the bake element.!!! (2 legs of 110-120 VAC) Does your broil function work.? Convection.? or did "bake" flake out.? the relay boards are not very robust in these ovens, and manufactured as cheaply as possible. The board mounted relays develop cracks in their soldered connection to the PCB over time, resulting in intermittent opens for some of the relays. Spend some time narrowing down the relay controlling the circuit that is dropping out, and re-solder the node. Sometimes just hitting it with a soldering pencil will be enough to restore the connection, but I would recommend adding a little silver solder to the puddle. It will help keep that connection from opening again.! Heck, while you're at it, re-solder all the board side relay nodes to prevent future issues.. or just replace the $165 board.. :)
Many thing can do this but, common things are....loose high voltage wire.....poor solder joint on board.....magnetron.....power relay.....alsoThis most commonly is abad door switch, other possible problems are a faulty relay or solder joint on the power module, but a bad door switch is most common.
I replaced the relay board for the top oven (the one with the transformer) and it works properly now. My issue was only for the top oven so you probably have to replace both relay boards since both ovens have only the top element working.
318022002 is the part number for the relay board with transformer 318022001 is the part number for the relay board without transformer
Yes the one without the transformer is more expensive for some reason.
The boards are on the top of the oven, I was able to pull out the oven about 75% of the way out of the cabinet and easily get to the boards. Just unplugged the connections and plugged them into the new board.
To get the oven out there are two small screws that go into brackets inside the top oven door. Highly recommend taking the doors off the oven to pull it out, much easier to work with.
NOTE: On my old board I noticed one solder joint that was burned out and I since I already had the new board I just replaced but you might want to check that first and see if just a solder fix gets you working again before you spend $$ on a new board.