Alpine 250 this amplifier i have here. i bought it like a few months now and it's really tripping!!!! i have no clue what is the problem here, the issue is this: pretty much my speakers are good after a while all three would stop working and one is left still working.. weird and funny. i see other post ups about this amp, sayin it's good yeah right. right now my amp is plyin 1 speaker at the moment god heavens no wha the problems. everythis connected right.

post more information about your amp. its likely the vibrations moved something in the amps, or buttons.

try tweaking the phase controls

good job after they are broken in for a few months gain can go to just ovr half

Make sure there's no missmatched impedance. If your sub running 2 ohms then your amp has to be 2 ohms stable. Does the amp blow fuses or get really hot? If it does it can be a fire hazard and I would recommend taking it out of your car. It could be that you don't have sufficient grounding. The grounding needs to be very close to the amp and the paint needs to be thoroughly scratched off. Otherwise could be a blown transistor within the amplifier, you can check this by opening up the amp, running a multimeter and testing the transistors for resistance.

Hello herb31,

Kicker lists the RMS power handling range of the CVR's from 100-500 watts, with a peak power capability of 1000 watts. There are lots of monoblock amps within that range. It just depends on how loud you want them and how much you want to spend.

In the low range, an amp like the Alpine MRP-M500 will deliver 250 watts to each sub at 2 ohms. And it only costs $179. Currently, the MRP-M500 is out of stock at Crutchfield. I just bought the last one. So my 2nd recommendation would be the Sony XM-1S, which has the same power rating and according to Crutchfield is no slouch either. It's also $179. I really like the Sony, too. It has a small footprint that makes it easy to find a convenient mounting location. Both the Sony and the Alpine are CEA-2006 compliant, so you can be sure that the manufacturer provided specifications are not overrated. Assuming that your vehicle electrical system can deliver the current, both the Sony and the Alpine will deliver an honest 250 watts RMS to each of your Kickers. And 250 watts will make them kick pretty darned good.

In the medium power range, consider either the JL Audio G Series G1700 which delivers 700 watts into 2 ohms. It costs $419 at Crutchfield. Or perhaps the Kicker 08ZX750 with 750 watts at a cost of $399.

To push the CVR's really hard, close to their 500 watt RMS maximum power range, look for an amp that delivers 1000 watts. In this range, you will definitely some heavy-duty wiring, electrical system upgrades, perhaps a 2 farad capacitor, and be ready to spend at least $600 on the amp. Your best combination of power and price would be another Alpine, the PDX-1.1000M, at $799. If you buy one from Crutchfield, they will throw in a 4-gauge amp wiring kit. And if you use a "friend referral code", such as mine, which is p7sdj-hrx8q-9800g, and your order is at least $200, you'll get another $20 discount. And I get a $20 credit toward a future order.

Hope this helps. If it does, please rate as "FixYa".

Ok. Have you check the Ground and the Power connection.

WTF?

I'll assume that you've checked the amplifier's on-board fuses.

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.

how high did you turn the gain up and or the freq. mode most soun good at 90to 120hz. any higher some amps trip, and your speakers may not be able to handel the amp.

it will depend on how you use the 2 alpine subs,, do you know what there individual impedance is [ ohms ] and how you intend on wiring them,,,in series, in parallel, in any case you must maintain the min load in order to load the amplifier properly,,,otherwise the amplifier will operate improperly and allow DC [ direct current ] to pass and fry your subs...so what I really need is more in formation