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Sears Kenmore Elite Front Loader Washer F09 Error 110.42832 200

I have an Elite front loader washer Model Number 110.42832 200 that I purchased in July 2002 from Sears. In July 2007 (2 months ago), the Sears guy came and did a maintenance tune up as per the extended warranty. I had not been having any problems; the tune up was free and was part of the extended warranty program. Since his visit I am having F09 error problems. I opened the front kick panel and opened the circular white plastic door with the handle to check for debris. Water came pouring out. I did not find any debris but ran the item under the faucet and replaced it securely. I ran the washer using the drain and spin mode to end the cycle. I keep having the same problem with the F09 error message coming up and the cycle stopping. I again opened the drain door to let the water pour out and did the drain and spin routine. I have used Tide HE detergent for the past 5 years. I have not moved the unit. And it was recently serviced. Last week I had a SUD error and so I ran it with no detergent etc and then the F09 error message came up. I have the manual and I have read the messages saying to check this and check that but I really have no clue how to check the pressure switch etc. I might do 1 load of laundry a week or 2 over the past 5 years so it hasn't been used excessively, I believe. I ran the testing program and it cycled though each step fine with washer empty. But when the washer actually has clothes in, and the washer goes through a normal wash cycle, it gives the F09 error message/beeps and stops. I appreciate any suggestions you might have. Thank you.

Posted by Anonymous on

  • Anonymous Sep 22, 2007

    Thank you. I was curious why I keep getting the error even though I did the diagnotics test and it cycled through the test with no problem.
    I saw some weird circular wire connectors that fasten to where the hoses are. Are those made to be removed by me? Or would I rish breaking the seal and making it worse?
    Thank you again and I will try to do what you have suggested.



2 Answers

Jeff Rockwell

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  • 5,911 Answers probably already know this, but here it goes. F9 is an Overflow Condition. If the Overflow contact on the pressure switch is Closed for more than 60 seconds an Overflow condition will occur. In an Overflow condition, the Door will remain locked, and the Drain Pump will run constantly, even if PAUSE/CANCEL is pressed twice and the Display is cleared. Unplug the unit to service. This is verbatim from the tech sheet. You will need to check to following: 1. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or inked. 2. Check Wire Harness connectors to the Drain Pump, Pressure Switch, and Central Control Unit (CCU). 3. Check/Clean Drain Pump Filter of foreign objects 4. Check for Drain Pump Failure. 5. Check the Inlet Valve for proper shut off 6. Check the Pressure switch for proper operation. Now, I don't know if the repairman had anything to do with this problem or not. If he didn't mess with any electrical connections, then this may strictly be coincidence. If you've only been checking the drain pump for foreign objects, you probably need to check some of the other items mentioned. 1. Check the drain hose by removing it from the standpipe and pull a vacuum on it with a shop vac. Could be you have an obstruction somewhere. Be sure to check the hose just prior to the drain pump as well. This is the hose on the bottom of the tub. This area can get clogged with debris. (Also, to prevent from making a huge mess the next time, try using this procedure to drain the washer from the machine BEFORE you remove the pump cover). 2. Unplug the washer and remove the kick plate and top panel. Check for any loose connections at the drain pump, pressure switch (located in the right rear of the machine), and the CCU (located in the rear of the washer with all the wiring running to it). Could be you have a loose or dirty connection somewhere. If you remove any connectors, make sure you write down where they go. It's best to only remove ONE connector at a time when checking the CCU. On the pressure switch, make sure the air hose is still attached. With the air hose off, loose, or leaking, the switch will not work and the tub will continue to try to fill. I don't know if this will generate an F09 error, though. 3. The drain pump. If it's running and you've already checked it for foreign matter, the pump is probably not the problem. 4. The inlet valve. You can check them if you like, but an overflow condition would indicate the presence of too much water. If the inlet valve would fail in this manner, the tub would be trying to fill with water all the time. Could be running water or a small trickle. Do you find standing water in the tub when not in use? 5. The suds error. This occurs when air from too much detergent gets into the drain line. I know you say you are using HE detergent (which is great, because on the newer models NOT using HE detergent voids your warranty), but HOW MUCH are you using? Some things to consider: a. Do you have soft water? This can actually cause the soap to suds better making the need to cut back on how much you use. b. Look at the detergent container. Is it double concentrated? Some detergents are sold as extra concentrated which means you need to cut back on the amount you use. Not doing so can cause the water to over suds. c. What size loads are you using the detergent in? Running small loads with the same amount of detergent can also cause over sudsing. Rule out the simple common sense things first. When everything else checks out and your problem still persists, you may have some concern (usually the CCU or pressure switch). I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, and I hope this helps you in some way.

Posted on Sep 22, 2007

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Sep 22, 2007

    Circular wire connectors? Are you talking about the connections where the fill hoses come into the back of the machine? If so, these are the connectors to the fill valve solenoids, and are made to be removable. Just remember where they go. Blue is usually for the cold water side and red is for the hot water side. I still think you probably have a bad pressure switch and/or CCU. The reason I say this is because you said the washer ran fine empty, but experienced problems when you put a load in it. The difference (I believe) would be the pressure difference inside the drum with a load in. To me, that says you may have a pressure switch problem...or something that controls the switch. Which is the CCU. Just a thought. Do a good thorough check of everything like you were going to just in case I'm wrong. I would hate for you to overlook something simple.



Carla Wing

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Wow.....Thank you so much! This was very, very helpful!

Posted on Nov 09, 2015


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