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I have several Honeywell dt90e's to control 'zones'. One is showing a low battery indicator, but replacing the batteries doesn't clear it. Also, temp. set to 19C, but the room temp is up to 24C! It is 3years old. Do I just replace it or is there a fix?
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http://www.gogeisel.com/geiselonline/support/Honeywell/CT3300_CT3355.pdf this is the programming manual- they have a note that if you show low battery after replacing the battery- put the battery in backwards, wait 10 seconds, then put the battery in correctly again to reset it- you will have to reprogram the clock time and date and any settings you had previously.
The answer above is incorrect. If the back up battery was low it says, "bat" on the screen and that's it. Since the "11" is being displayed, zone #11 on your wireless system as a low battery.
If the compressor motor is overheating, it's usually a result of low refrigerant gas in the cooling coils. Recharging is an option, if you can find a shop that will do it.
Turn control to off. Remove the batteries for at least one hour. If the display message still reads "bat lo", leave control off, batteries out, and disconnect the red wire on back and wait another hour. Reconnect red wire, put new batteries in and turn system on. It's like a reboot.
Turn the alarm off two times. If it still indicates A/C not ready, press the * key and it will tell you what zone is open or what zone has a low battery.
R comonY cool W heat G fan C other side of 24 unless you are battery operated. On the back of the Tstat tou should have switch that says gas or electric this controls how the fan operates. If not go into programing and program 1 stage heat one stage cool.Let me know I will walk you thru this.
I had this same problem today. I called Honeywell and they said the flashing broken battery symbol may mean low batteries, or it may mean the battery type is incorrect. They recommend only non-rechargeable alkaline batteries. I was using rechargeable NiMH batteries. Even though they were fully charged, I had the flashing battery symbol and the thermostat relay would not work. I replaced with alkaline, the flashing battery indicator went out, the thermostat works again.
Odd that it worked for 3 months on the rechargeables after first install. I did notice the broken battery symbol came on after the first few days, but I checked the battery charges and they were good, so I disregarded the symbol until the thermostat stopped working today. Apparently there is something about the NiMH performance characteristic that the thermostat doesn't like.
Since you have three on/off timing modes could there be an overlap in the times?
The wires in the unit might be crossed. (don't always assume the contractor who wired maintained the correct colors , I have a friend who blew out a heating pipe because when a replacement motor valve was installed it was never wired right and the plumber assumed the colors were correct so no overtemp shutoff created steam in PVC pipes, OPPS)
There fore maybe one is still coming on. Do you have more than one heating zone? IF so see below
I guess the main question is why manually turn it off? why not use the program.
I will assume your heat is know as forced hot water heating. My house is multizoned however when the zone calling for heat turns off (zone valve closes) I installed a bypass valve in the lowest zone in the house, and reduced the circulator low shut off temp to 130 F which means even though the heat isn't on my circulator will continue to run dumping this excess heat in the lowest part of house to rise through house. (the spring loaded water valve allows the heated water to flow into this zone )We do have two thermistats. And even though the lowest one is not calling for heat the radiators are hot when the excess is dumped into this zone. So investigate and see if your system might be similar. (multizone).
Investigate your wiring, reprogram, replace any battery backup.
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