Washer was moved to new home and I tried to install tonight with new connections, etc. Won't turn on. Worked fine yesterday at old house. The electricity in my new (very old) house is fuse box quality. Tested the outlet and it is hot. Does the washer have to have a special outlet to work? I keep reading about 120 volt 60 hertz. Or was the thing broken in route? I have kids and I really need my washer and I really don't need another bill. Thanks!
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: Moved Washer and Now no Electrical
Suggestion: You dont need any special outlet. With a tester (you can get this in any electric shop) see if there is power in the outlet. You said it was hot?? It is not supposed to be hot. Try another outlet; & you could unscrew your machine plug to see if all the three wires are okay, ie. well connected, screwed in.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
i assume you have DSL connection through phone line . double check the cables see if they are connected properly betwee the modem and router etc ..if its all connected then reset your router by pressing littile tiny button at the back of Router and apply new WPA2 password and try connect .
If the cycle does not stop draining that is usually because of a faulty
membrane switch that controls the water level in your appliance.
The faulty sensor cause the machine to think that there is still water inside, even when water has drained completely.
I solved this by changing where the power for the DSP unit was coming from the manual specifys to connect them to the same +12 connector for display and DSP and it worked fine in the Series 1 however for some reason in the series 2 the DSP unit draws too much power from the headunit +12 power connector and as soon as the unit fires bass in a song etc it drags it down to the point of the display shutting off, I change the +12 on the DSP unit to my 4GA +12 power cable through an adaptor block and it has worked fine since.