Question about Cuisinart CBT-500 SmartPower Premier Work Top Blender

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Replace the blade driver clutch on a Cuisinart CBT-500

How do you replace the blade driver clutch on a Cuisinart CBT-500

Posted by fixblender on

  • 3 more comments 
  • rlsimon Dec 28, 2007

    My original clutch cracked, now I have a new clutch, but the metal screw part of the old clutch is still attached. I am having trouble getting it off. Please recommend solutions.

  • vmgib Mar 16, 2008

    We have the same problem. Got a new clutch from Amazon. How do we remove the old threaded brass coupler from the shaft? It spins when I try to twist it off with pliers. My part number is spb7-20txn.

  • Anonymous Aug 19, 2008

    I was using my blender and suddenly, I started to smell smoke I think the blades were not moving,now is not working what can I do.

    It is suppose to have 5 years warranty

  • flnstrldy2 May 15, 2009

    Namwith has the best solution, I just fixed my Cuisinart in about 3 minutes. I did not have problems with the brass coupling but may be because I read his instructions carefully first and was careful in my handling of this piece.
    works great now after sitting in a closet for 4 years.

  • Anonymous Mar 21, 2014

    Broken blade drive clutch



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I had this same problem. It was solved but let me tell you it was a nightmare and we were almost sure the blender would be destroyed at least 3 times during the ordeal.

Here's a hint: the thread is on opposite to a normal screw thread so that it gets tighter as the blender spins.

1. Take the base off the blender and pop out the motor.
2. Turn over the motor and remove the round rubber part at the bottom. You will see a flathead screw. This is where you grip the shaft that the cursed brass coupler thread is attached to.
3. Find someone else to help and also a large strong flathead screwdriver.
4. With a friend holding a screwdriver in place at the bottom, grip the top brass thread with pliers (or better yet a pipe wrench) and twist it the opposite way you normally would.
5. Become extremely frustrated by the fact that the screw thread is made of cheap metal and strips instantly and that the brass thread is also cheaply made and rips right through your pliers / wrench.
6. Find a hack saw and a hammer.
7. Cut the brass thread off with the hack saw. Hammer the stubborn remaining pieces of it off with a screwdriver. Be prepared to cut off half of the shaft.
8. Eventually you should have hammered / sawed the brass thread off. If the shaft and motor are still intact, you can now screw the new coupler on (remember - its backwards). We had only about half of the shaft thread left and it still worked ok. Make sure to do this after you put the motor back in place with the shaft poking through the top of the case. Don't worry too much about how tight it is. As I mentioned its on backwards to tighten the coupler during normal use.
9. Replace the casing and screws, don't forget that rubber thing at the bottom.
10. Curse Cuisinart and make a drink, you deserve it.

Posted on May 13, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Anonymous May 13, 2008

    ** NOTE:
    I was exaggerating about cutting off half the shaft. I just realized readers might take this literally.

    What we did was cut downwards vertically, slicing off part of the thread shaft, not horizontally cutting off the top part of the shaft.

    Just wanted to clarify. I'd really advise against trying to cut the brass thread off if you can avoid it. Do this as a last resort.

  • Viperjet Sep 21, 2010

    I tried following the steps but can't get past Step 1 -- the motor will not pop out of the base. I removed the 4 screws on the bottom, the 2 screws holding the circuit board and finally the 4 screws holding the motor. The motor and shaft are loose but the top part that grabs the blades will not pop down thru its hole. What do I do -- hit it with a hammer?

  • spiroj Nov 28, 2010

    Thanks to all who have posted here. For me this turned out to be very straightforward after reading the suggestions (esp about the thread being 'backwards'). The piece that needed to be replaced actually came off rather easily-- and the thread was intact. Just thought I'd mention this to avoid others being discouraged. Start to finish was ~15 min.

  • jblumberg Aug 28, 2011

    Thanks! I followed all the steps and it also just took me a few minutes. I think the warnings about stripping the screw thread, made me extra careful and thus I removed it without problems.



Peter Lxxxxx

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I had a similar problem with an older (CB-4) model. The motor shaft and anchor just spun while the rubber disk jumped around. I alternately added super glue and epoxy until the disk rotated with the shaft and the gap was filled. That part has been fine since. I also had the body of the blade assembly crack down the side; this happened a second time after I replaced it. I super glued the second one , re-pressed the brass sleeve and replaced the spacer on the (upper) rubber disk, but it's too early to know how long this fix will hold. Three failures in 12 years is tolerable, but it's not a great record and this thing feels and sounds like a piece of ****; it's a good thing I got it on sale for $50. Next time, I'll get a Hamilton Beach or Oster.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

  • Clifford Snow
    Clifford Snow Apr 26, 2014

    I used a thick cloth to hold the blade assembly against the coupler. That allowed me to easily turn the shaft with a screw driver. Remembering to turn the opposite direction. The coupler easily unscrewed.



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