NAD CI9060 Amplifier Logo
Posted on Sep 20, 2007
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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NAD 302 Amp

Suddenly I've found my amp is sounding dull.It's not fuzzy, there's no hums. There's no top,mainly mid and bass no great separation.Any simple fix?

  • 1 more comment 
  • gripperod Sep 23, 2007

    many thanks SparkGap
    Ears not the problem - Eyes not as good as they used to be though!

    One additional bit of information. This happened after connecting the amp up to the TV through the headphone socket (on th tv - maybe not advisable!) Is there any chance that the TV headphone output may have damaged the preamp ?


  • gripperod Sep 23, 2007

    Hi SparkGap

    Ah Ha
    Nothing in the tweeter department at all!

    KEF Coda 2

    anything in there apart from the tweeters that can be checked ?

    thanks in advance


  • gripperod Sep 23, 2007

    Didn't mean to offend! Hope this rectifies things.

    I tried the amp with some other speakers and everything seems to be fuctioning ok

    I've emailed the manufacturers about replacements.
    Once again, many thanks for your time.



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  • Posted on Sep 22, 2007
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Try Earex wax softener, worked for me! Seriously though, are you sure it's the amp, could someone have cooked your speakers without you knowing? Have you checked the media source? Garbage in equals garbage out with any system. Your terminology leads me to think you are an audiophile, so have you checked the stylus? Have you put in some new furniture or rearranged the room. This can make a big difference to the way a system sounds. Check all the usual things like your signal connections. If you have a PC to hand in your listening room, use it as a sound analyser, plug a microphone in and connect the line out into your amp you should be able then to measure the responses of your setup with white noise, swept tones and impulses for room dynamics. I seem to remember there are freeware utilities for this kind of thing. Good luck

  • Anonymous Sep 23, 2007

    Yes if the amp has no protection then connecting a TV particularly while everything is on can cause a spike that makes a damaging 'thump' to the speakers or fry the preamp.

    If the amp is powerful and rated too high for the speakers then suspect the speakers more.

    Is the sound bad on just one side?
    If so, try swapping the speaker leads left to right.
    If the bad sound still comes from the same speaker then you can be sure the speaker is faulty.

    Look forward to your reply.

  • Anonymous Sep 23, 2007

    So the tweeters dont seen to be working?

    One more check if you want to be certain, connect the speakers to another source that has an easily accessable speaker output i.e. a radio, that killer TV, someone elses stereo, car radio whatever.

    If it turns out your tweeters are blown (I think they are) then it is a fairly straighforward job to replace them.

    If you are a purist then it might be worth contacting the speaker manufacturer for an exact replacement otherwise you might find tweeters of the same dimensions in your local Maplins or Tandy electronics shop.

    Just guessing what speakers you have-
    There will be 3 or 4 screws holding the tweeters in, they should then come out the front of the cabinet and there will be a pair of wires to disconnect.

    Sorry to see you have chosen not to improve my rating, I thought we were getting somwhere even though it's not what you wanted to hear.

    Anyway, it's been nice talking with you and good luck!


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Ok problem with monitoring

If you are experiencing a mid-range humming from your monitors when using your Allen & Heath PA12-CP mixer, there may be a problem with the signal level or the cables.
Here are a few steps you can try to troubleshoot and resolve this issue:
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  2. Check the cables that are connected to the monitors. Make sure they are not damaged or loose, and that they are properly connected to the mixer and the monitors.
  3. Try using a different set of monitors to see if the problem persists. If the humming is still present, the problem may be with the mixer itself.
  4. If you are still experiencing a humming sound, you may need to contact Allen & Heath customer support for assistance. They will be able to provide you with more detailed troubleshooting steps and help you resolve the issue.
Overall, if you are experiencing a humming sound from your monitors when using your Allen & Heath PA12-CP mixer, the problem may be with the signal level, the cables, or the mixer itself. Follow the steps above to troubleshoot and resolve the issue.

No sound from tweeter bx5a

First of all, never connect the audio from your receiver directly to the tweeter. You can blow the tweeter instantly. The mid-bass driver can be damaged from a direct connection as well.

Since you get absolutely no sound from either driver, this seems to implicate the crossover. If the crossover has opened, no signal gets through, if it has opened early in the signal path.

But, it is also possible that a short exists, and that perhaps your amp cuts off the output having sensed a short. The short could be in the crossover or one of the drivers.

Here are some troubleshooting tips--

To prevent damage to your amp, turn it off while making or breaking any connections inside the speaker boxes.

Write down which wires get connected to which place on the drivers, so you can get them back where they belong.

With your amp turned off, connect the bad speaker to your amp. You've already verified that no sound is produced when both drivers are connected.

So, with your amp off, disconnect one wire from the tweeter in the bad box.

Briefly turn your amp on and listen for sound.

If you get sound, the tweeter is shorted.

If you get no sound, with the amp off, reconnect the tweeter in the bad box and disconnect one wire from the mid-bass driver.

Briefly turn the amp on and listen before turning the amp off.

If you get sound now, but not before, the mid-bass driver is shorted.

If you got no sound either way, check the DC resistance of the mid-bass driver (only, not the tweeter. Ohmmeters put out a small DC voltage to test resistance. That DC voltage might damage a tweeter, maybe. Don't risk it). Ohm the mid-bass driver while it is not connected to the crossover. If the driver is good, you should read some ohms--a little less than the stated impedance. An 8 ohm driver might read 6.5 ohms, for instance. If you get an open or a short (with the crossover disconnected from the mid-bass driver) you have a blown driver. Two actually, since neither the tweeter nor the mid-bass driver produced any sound in the previous tests.

If you can't get ahold of an ohmmeter, try this--

Open the good, working speaker and place the two side by side.

Connect your amp to the bad speaker box only.

With your amp turned off, disconnect the wires from the mid-bass driver in the bad box and connect them to the mid-bass driver in the good box. Disconnect one of the wires from the "good" mid-bass driver first, so you don't have two crossovers connected to it at the same time--even if only one of them will get powered on. It keeps the confusion down to a minimum when trying to isolate your problem. Oh, and disconnect one wire from the bad tweeter, in case it is shorted.

Turn the amp on and listen briefly before turning the amp off.

If you got sound, the "bad" crossover is fine, but the "bad" mid-bass driver is blown. And, since you got no sound in the previous tests, the "bad" tweeter is blown, as well.

If you got no sound, try it the other way around. Meaning--

With the amp off, disconnect the speaker wires coming from your amp from the bad speaker box and connect them to the good speaker box.

Your amp is now connected only to the good speaker box.

With the amp still off, connect the mid-bass wires from the good box to the mid-bass driver in the bad box. Remember to disconnect one of the "bad" crossover wires from its own driver first, so only one crossover is connected to the "bad" mid-midbass driver. Remember to disconnect one wire from the "good" and "bad" tweeters, so the only sound you hear--if any--is from the "bad" mid-bass driver, powered by the "good" crossover.

If this produces sound, but the previous attempts failed, you have a crossover problem.

If you still get no sound, something went wrong and you need to retest the good speaker by itself and back up a few steps and try again.

Assuming you got sound from the "good" crossover while it was driving your "bad" mid-bass, make sure no wires have come loose inside the "bad" box. Assuming you have sound connections at each end of each wire, you now need to desolder the electrolytic capacitors from the circuit board.

Make sure you mark them first, so you can put them back where they belong.

You can remove only one at a time, if that helps.

Use an ohmmeter to check some components.

The big red coil should read pretty close to a short, maybe one ohm.

The capacitors should read open or infinite resistance, although you might see a steadily increasing resistance while the capacitor charges up from the ohmmeter. If you read a steady low resistance on a capacitor after it has been removed from the circuit board, that capacitor is bad and must be replaced. The markings on the capacitor should give you some clues as to the proper replacement.

All things considered, I suspect that your problem is a shorted electrolytic capacitor. But, I gave you all I could think of so you can narrow it down and isolate the problem, whatever it might be.

I hope this helps.

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sounds to me that the vol control has lost its earth end connection So yes its a problem with the dial control You couls try some contact cleaner But better still lift of the lid and base if possible while the amplifier is not plugged into the power socket and see if you have a dry joints around the vol control pot regards Trev
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