My Zanussi ZSF6160 dishwasher (2 years old)stopped heating during both the wash and drying cycles. A repair man imediately suspected the control relay rather than the heating element. He subsequently dismantled the control module and found a black burn mark on the back of the control module PCB.
This call out cost me £30 and he then quoted me a further £216 to fit a new control module!!!!!
Once I had regained my composure I armed myself with soldering iron and multimeter, took the heating element control relay off and found it to be working perfectly, thus it was the PCB trace that had failed with carrying the 10A current thus with some extra beefy wires soldered to back of PCB to avoid any further PCB burn out I have cured my dishwashers ills and it now works perfectly again! The way the repair man knew exactly what the problem was I suspect that this is a common problem (design flaw) so I want to let others know that all that is required is a bit of resoldering rather than a hefty repair bill or a new dishwasher
Is this weak PCB trace, carrying 10A, built in obsolescence?
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Re: Water not heating
Probably not, believe it or not. If they actually designed a trace to fail under load, then they could not predict when it may happen. Yes, things get more load-some over long use and demand more current, but the pcb trace was probably not intentionally too small. Let's say it was designed too small. So at first startup it carries 9.5 Amps. The next factory unit draws 9.8 amps. the next unit, wait a minute, draws 10 amps and blew the trace before it got shipped. I think this under-design was a simple oversight, but one that should have demanded a product recall from Zanussi that would send a tech to every unit to install a pcb with a beefier trace. Email Zanussi and complain! Just curious...can you measure how wide is this pcb trace? It should be about 1/4 inch wide.
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Mantona, you're on the right track. Your heater terminals are large, insulated and poke through the tub facing downward. To test this, remove one of the wires connected to the terminal, then check OHMS. If this is what you did, you don't have to do that again. Elements rarely fail, the problem most likely resides in the hi-limit thermostat.
You know where the element is, now follow one of the wires back toward the control panel. One of the element wires will pass through the thermostat (in series) before going to the control. The thermostat is mounted tightly to the bottom of the tub, touching it to monitor temperature. When you find it, remove one of the wires (there are 2) and check OHMS. You should read ~1 Ohm, if you read infinity, you found the problem. (You can verify your finding by removing both wires from it and connect them together. Then run a wash load to check the heater. Don't leave it in this condition! The thermostat is a safety device and should not be permanently bypassed!
If your test of the t'stat proves that it's OK, you'll have to test it with power on and running. I can walk you through this if needed. Let us know how it turns out.
Control is programmed to stop
running and not allow any
further cycles if it detects a
water heating problem (no
temperature increase detected
in heated Main Wash on
3 consecutive cycles). Control
blinks the Clean LED 7 times
repeatedly and disables the
Start/Resume key until
Running Diagnostics clears the
control and allows it to operate
again. The water heating problem
must be fixed or the control will
stop running again. See potential
Heater circuit problem:
■ Open in heater.
■ Open connection or
component in heater circuit.
■ Faulty heater drive circuit on
1. Check operation of heater in
2. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect
3. Check resistance of heater and all
components and connections in the
water heating circuit or heat dry
not familar with the code but usually wash has a built in thermo stop to wait for water to heat to correct temp,if it works normally in a rince cycle and spins out and finishes properly i would look at heat element or stat,hope this helps
E11 Problems with water fill in wash phase E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.2 E12 Problems with water fill in drying E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.3 E21 Problems with water drain in wash phase E20 Cycle PAUSED 8.4 E22 Problems with water drain during drying or drying condenser blocked E20 Heating phase skipped 8.5 E31 Analogic (electronic) pressure switch circuit faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.6 E32 Incorrect calibration of analogic (electronic) pressure switch --- Cycle PAUSED 8.7 E33 Incongruency between level of analogic (electronic) pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.8 E34 Incongruency between level of electronic pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.9 E35 Water level too high --- Cycle blocked with door closed and water drain 8.10 E36 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.11 E37 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.11 E38 Pressure chamber blocked --- Heating phase skipped 8.12 E41 Door open E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.13-14 E42 Problems with door closure E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.15-16 E43 TRIAC which powers the door interlock faulty E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.17-18 E44 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock faulty --- Cycle blocked 8.19 E45 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock triac faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.19 E51 TRIAC which powers the motor short-circuited --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.20 E52 No signal from tachometric generator --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.21-22 E53 "Sensing" circuit of motor TRIAC faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.23 E54 Relays (motor) contacts faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.23 E61 Insufficient heating during washing --- Heating phase skipped 8.24 E62 Overheating during washing --- Drain, end of cycle 8.25 E63 Insufficient heating during drying Heating phase skipped 8.26 E64 Overheating during drying --- Heating phase skipped 8.27 E66 Power relay to heating element faulty --- Drain, end of cycle 8.28 E71 NTC wash sensor faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.29 E72 NTC sensor on drying condenser faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.30 E73 NTC sensor on drying duct faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.31 E84 "Sensing" circuit on circulation pump triac faulty --- Drain, end of cycle (door open) 8.32 E85 Circulation pump faulty --- Drain, end of cycle (door open) 8.33 E91 Communications error between main PCB and user interface --- --- 8.34 E93 Configuration error E90 Cycle blocked 8.34 E94 Incorrect configuration of washing cycle E90 Cycle blocked 8.34 EF1 Drain filter blocked LED-EF0 --- 8.35 EF2 Excessive detergent LED-EF0 --- 8.35 Regards David Marsh
Just bought a Bosch dishwasher and we were told that they have no heating mechanism to dry the dishes, which is why they are more energy efficient. You are supposed to leave the door closed for at least one hour after the cycle is complete. The heat that has built up inside during the wash cycle will dry the dishes. It is also recommended to always use JetDry. If you follow this advice, the dishes will come out fine.