Cant reset or get lights on hot water tank or energy smart

Control board can be bad...
Resources on following two links:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-convert-energy-smart-water-heater-to-ordinary-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html
Older style or newer?
5 flashes on older unit indicates lower element is bad.... so maybe the control board is bad
Test your old element for continuity
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#new
Was tank full of water before power was turned on?
Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Bad thermostat or thermistor depending on model.
Whirlpool/Craftmaster/American energy smart has control box on top, and you can order parts from Whirlpool.

2) Copy following links to help identify product.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

3) Add a comment with more detailed information:
You have electric water heater.
Unknown brand, possibly energy-smart.
Unknown control box.
Cut off? Do you mean 'reset' is tripped?

4) Whirlpool energy smart requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker.
Control panel may not function with undersized electric supply.
Control panel has blinking-light errors ... if no error code then maybe the control box is bad.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Copy following links for whirlpool energy smart resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Energy-Smart-troubleshooting-guide.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

2) Control box is probably bad.
There are 2 types of control boxes for older-style energy smart water heaters.
You will need model number and serial number from label on side of tank to order from Whirlpool.

3) This older-type energy smart water heater is probably discontinued by AO-Smith, American, State, Craftmaster, Reliance water heater group that makes Whirlpool and Kenmore water heaters.
New generation energy smart offers interface with home automation and/or non-existent smart grid.
Older energy smart only offered potential interface with non-existent smart grid.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Water heater is not identified.
Add a comment with information that appears on label on side of tank for possible help.
You might be talking about Whirlpool energy smart electric.
The error diagnostic lights flash a code: the code decipher is printed on the diagnostic control box on top of heater.
Call Whirlpool: you need model number and serial number from label located on side of tank.
1-877-817-6750

Open following links for energy-smart resources and typical manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Whirlpool-energy-smart-electric-manual.pdf

1) Residential water heaters are non-simultaneous. Only one element works at a time.
Upper element comes on until top of tank is heated, and then lower element is switched on until lower part of tank is heated. Lower element keeps tank hot during standby hours
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

2) Typical Whirlpool energy smart has 4500Watt elements. Look at label on side of tank
If both elements were ON, that would draw 9000Watts or 37.5 amps, requiring 50 amp breaker and 8 gauge wire. V x A = Watts.
All dual-element tanks are 240V.
Whirlpool energy smart requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker so electronics are not starved during operation. If your wire or breaker are undersized, that is suspect for repeated failure.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

3) Typical electric water heater heats 21 gallons per hour. First hour delivery is higher since elements heat water as you use it. Overall however, electric water heater cannot re-heat as fast as gas because gas water heater burner carries more BTU punch per minute than electric element. Gas heats about 41 gallons per minute, with higher first hour delivery.

4) IF YOU HAVE OLDER energy smart and installed newer board, then you could have non-simultaneous operation is reversed so that lower element comes on first.
Read following post at Fixya:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8263226-our_water_heater_doing
Contact Whirlpool 1-877-817-6750

5) Another potential problem is that you have sediment inside tank and that is reducing efficiency of lower element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

Add a comment with your experience so others with same-similar problem can benefit.

Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

The evidence points to a control malfunction.
Call Whirlpool for assistance: 1-877-817-6750
You will need your model number and serial number located on label on side of tank.
Serial number is required because models change as the technology evolves.

Open following link to read product details about the Energy Smart, and download typical manual.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

Note: Energy Smart water heater requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker.

Typical energy smart manual shows: 1 flash is start-up error, which indicates 'Power ON with no water in tank.'
This is not possible because at least the upper element would burn out, if not both elements.
If upper element burns out, this water heater will not make any hot water, since it is wired for ordinary non-simultaneous operation.
There cannot be air inside the tank since your hot water faucet is not spewing air.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

Also be aware that model numbers change.
Read following account of fellow who replaced control board on his 4-year-old energy smart, and how he discovered wires are reversed on newer control boards. Be sure to ask Whirlpool about this possibility, in the event they say control board is faulty and send you new board:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8263226-our_water_heater_doing

2 green flashes is 'High Water Temp.'
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

Typical energy smart manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Whirlpool-energy-smart-electric-manual.pdf

3 flashes is Temperature Sensor failure.
4 flashes is Upper element
5 flashes is Lower element

Troubleshoot section says:
1) Make sure access doors and insulation are installed.
2) Check elements for resistance of 5-25 ohms (if element has a short in center of element, it might not trip breaker)
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
3) replace element and reset control system.
Buy ordinary 4500 Watt element from hardware store.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

4) I also suspect the self-diagnostic control box.
Manual says: Repair parts may be ordered through your plumber,
local distributor, home improvement center, or by calling
1-877-817-6750.
You need serial number, product number and model number from label on side of tank.

For images and product information
For manual


You checked ohms, did you check for 240V across lower element when lower element is turned on?

Energy smart electric water heater has a control box on top of unit. Water heater does not have typical thermostats that can be tested and replaced. Temperature sensors located above each element send information to control box through small black and red wires. Temperature sensor sells for about $40, but there is no test listed that shows how to determine when sensors fail.

Potential problems:
-Temperature sensor is not reading correct temp
-Control box not processing correct temperature information
-Selector on control box set to 2, 3 or 4
-Thermostat temp on control box set lower than 120 degrees F
-Sediment build-up starting to surround lower element so water doesn't circulate (see if drain valve runs full-open