Amp turns off for a bit and back on when it hits hard

Put the kickers with the xplode 1 per channel giving each sub around 450-500 watts. Make sure you select a good ground connection, use think copper wire and both connections must be tightened enough to not move. 10 gauge is good. Run think battery pos+ cable wire from your battery to your apps install spot. Have a fusible link in between the battery and amp. Dont run your speaker wire or rca amp cable with your pos+ wire or it will pick up current causing a high pitched tone. Run remote connection to blue wire on radio harness or to the fuse box ign. Label. Make sure them kickers have a tight seal, and adequate air space. Ported boxes do hit harder but i prefer all sealed myself. Face subs to back of vehicle and roll windows down 15 percent. Good Luck. Holler Back

Its blown. Maybe not completely but youve done some damage. If your sure its not hitting the box anywhere and its tight, then thats what it is. Youve burnt the voice coils a little. They regulate how far the sub goes in and out. I have two kicker L7 12s that have bad voice coils. And thats what they do. Theyre in my trunk though so its not to noticeable and they still hit super hard.

Usually a power rating is a power rating, 1000watt rating is a thousand watt rating. The amp will put out 900 watts at 2 ohms.

unless you are a technician do not mess with the amplifier.
it takes years of school to learn electronics. unless it is a blown fuse or something simple,you will never fix it.
i did kenwood warranty for 8 years and the amplifiers are difficult to repair.

Maybe, but my question would be will the truck alternator carry the load without frying. Also you will need one hell-a-chous size of battery and ground leads in order to feed that much power from the front of the truck to the amps in the trailer in back. I would think that some really big boost capacitors placed at the amps would be in order too. Also, you didn't mention how many amps you were using and what amperage they would draw. That is criticial information before you can figure out every thing else. Good luck.

good day, check your spkr impedance, if 4oms use a posive spkr dividing network. if stills blows up replace a higher amperage of your fuse. ex.4A raise it up to 5A. the your amps consume higier current if more spkr wattage.

THE AMP IS DRAWING TO MUCH POWER WHAT SIZE WIRE ARE U USING?

The Kenwood KAC would be 2 ohm stable.
I ran my sub's in parallel and the amp did not shut off and hit pretty well for long periods of time.
If you are running two dual voice coils.
Bridge amp, run pos and neg to pos and neg outside of box.
neg and pos to one side of sub
The other side of the sub run to the next sub
the other side of the sub to the inside of the box pos and neg.
pos and neg outside of box to the other outside terminals to create a complete loop.
If this isn't a good description post back and I'll email you a picture of it.

The problem would be if you had it switched around. The 1200W subwoofer only means that it can handle 1200w of power the 1000w amp means that it can deliver 1000w of power. What you may have is an impedance mismatch. My question is what is the resistance rating on the sub woofer and what is the minimum resistance rating of the amplifier. These are actully the important issues at hand. the rating of the subwoofer resistance in Ohms should never be lower then the minimum resistance rating on the amplifier. in fact the resistance rating on the amp should match the resistance rating on the subwoofer.

Sounds like a short circut protection on the amp kicking in. It sences the power going to the drivers and cuts itself out before damage is inflicted on the subs.