My 4 year old GE profile refigerator stopped working yesterday. I removed the back and made sure the coils were clean. Unplugged it and pluged it back in. At one point it started up but for less than a minute. Since then I have unplugged it again this time for a half hour. When plugged back in all I get is a quiet hum with a steady dull click/tick noise. No other noises and none of the electronic temperature displays come on. Robert
Your Compressor is not running and the overload is the tick click I'm believing follow these steps below to help you decide:
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. To Decide if Either your compressor is broken inside or
the start components are not working properly.
Parameters’ are as follows and must MUST be true before
continuing:
1 Condencer coil (outside coil) Clean and open for a ir flow
2 Condensor Fan motor is running and turning at enough speed
and correct direction.
3 Voltage to the compressor is correct and supplied.
4 Decide if the compressor is Hot or warm or cold to the
touch for future reference.
Cold or Hot
Could it be the
compressor not running or that it has overloaded?
If you suspect the compressor try to follow this to decide your next step:
These little helps allow you to get the compressor running or decide that it
needs replacing
1 Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each
other.
A. If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad. No
Need to go further.
B. If the compressor is hot and you read through some points
on the compressor motor (pins or terminals) but not through others wait up to
24 hours for an internal over load to reset. Internal type, usually AC and
larger Refrigeration Compressors. Smaller refrigerator type compressors have an
external over load. After 24 hours off or yours has an external overload re-ohm
and see if all have readings to each other. If these read open IE No resistance between each
other the compressor is bad.
Results your looking for:
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be
different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be
close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a
couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
After 3 or 4 tries if the results don’t add up the
compressor motor is bad. Replacement is required. Is this machine worth a new
compressor? Is it still under warranty? Is the labor and all parts covered?
2 Assuming the above checks out:
Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay
and overload (and run capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that
is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and
replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still
does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the
compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the
refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration..
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to
12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours
and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat.
And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The
other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely
from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.
30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t
understand.
True commercial refrigerator opened it up and is warm 70.F looking at motor was buzzing with a rubber burning smell ok,spun the fan motor and came on (works) ,now why did this motor stop in the middle of the night is there more problems ahead thanks.
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