The machine goes through all cycles until the final spin. I removed the sheet and tested for a code and it indicated I have a problem with my clutch or pressure tube. I removed the agitator and unscrewed the plate holding the tub in but I can't remove the wash tub from the barrel.
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Not sure what you mean but if the washer doesn't spin then it's probably the switch that controls the spin action.
On most washers, when you open the lid or door the spin cycle stops for safety's sake. In many cases, there is a small extension on the door or lid that engages the switch when you close it. Look where the extension is supposed to engage and that's the switch. I was able to fix my broken switch on my GE washer by cutting the edge of the plastic on a pen and gluing it to the extension so it pushed the switch mechanism down further to start the spin cycle.
Hopes this helps.
If this machine is a Kenmore 417 Sourse (WCI) built washer with a font load,check tech sheet.I had the same problem on a Frigidaire frontload and it was the door latch/lock assembly.These machines can be tricky sometimes.Use tech sheet and make sure lock assembly ohms out ok.
Thank you for verifying the model type so many folks post non FAV6800A/FAV9800A questions in this forum machine specific topic area. FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual for reference.Sears Parts Direct for reference. You will need the Service Manual for support.I’m an owner like you with a solid repair skills on the machine and will try to help you DIY the repair if we can ID the issue through troubleshooting. Do you have this condition in all wash cycles?Will a Quick Wash cycle complete? Do you see the Cycle Status LED ever indicate the machine has moved to the Spin Cycle during the wash cycle? This could be a Control Board failure but we need to troubleshoot. I want to make sure the Wash basket will spin up with a Spin Only cycle selection.Can you select a Spin Only cycle with a empty wash basket.I would release the washer top so you can observe this test.I want to rule out a broken Clutch large wrap spring. Page 33 of the Service Manual will show you how to release the washer top from the base.In Spin Only cycle raise the top just enough to make sure the wash basket is rotating Counter Clock Wise – CCW with the Spin Only cycle selected and operated. If the above test doesn’t indicate an issue I would like you to try the Quick Service Cycle test on page 15 of the Service Manual and see if your FAV6800A will pass that test with no clothes in the washer.When you put the machine in Service Mode press and hold simultaneously the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys until the machine beeps and the LED display reads 00. Then press Wash/Rinse Temp to start Quick Service Cycle test.Did the test complete with a PA indication in the display?It will only display the PA code for a few seconds.End of cycle will beep washer will unlock and Cycle Status LED will indicate complete. Waiting for your reply….Rich
Hello mttwtkns, I’m an owner like you; from what you describe I feel you have a clutch issue.You don’t mention dc or UC errors when the spin cycle fails in Quick Wash cycle or any wash cycle.The 22 min mark in Quick Wash cycle is the start of the first spin cycle.What most owners don’t realize is this machine is designed to begin the spin cycle with a fair amount of water in the wash tub.When it fails in spin cycle because of unbalance errors they report the machine failed to drain properly.I believe the Maytag design team designed the firmware in the Control Board to do this to help dampen out tub oscillations at the start of the spin cycle.You are one of a few owners that have taken the SM and used the Control Board diags to troubleshoot.Good job!!! and very refreshing to hear.See this post for a step by step process to remove the clutch.Try a maintenance clean up of the Oneway Roller Clutch bearing and see if that will get you back in service, if not I would do a Clutch replacement.My machine is a series 16 doesn’t use the upper one-way roller clutch bearing.You series of machine is the 1ST two numbers of your serial number of the machine.Some parts are seria number/series dependent. Don’t get hung up on the pressure switch.It sets on top of the drain pump.You can test as you know in Service Mode thru the board input testing of page 16 of the SM.Just fill with a few buckets of water until you see the transition -0 to -1 for low level.That’s about 3.5 inches of water in the wash Basket.Then as you stated turn on the drain pump in Service Mode to pump out the wash tub.Your drain pump is fine as you have already tested.I have a post on a retrofit of the Sump Cap where I installed a stainless steel screen to protect the pump impeller from coins and other trash.Again I feel you have a clutch issue, I would like to see dc/UC errors to the display for this fail to spin issue.Are you sure you are not taken those unbalance errors to the display?.You could also go into Service Mode and read all the error codes.See page 25/26 for unbalance diag error code blocks 5 and 10. Post back if you need additional help.Rich
most likely a code is stored in the computer as it probably encountered an error getting up to speed. this would probably be in the motor control board on bottom not the main control on top. main control will have the error though. tech sheet should be located in base of machine on side wall remove rear panel and look to left. this will tell how to access diagnostic mode and retrieve code.
Run any load - large or the least bit bulky (like sheets) on the "BULKY" cycle. It takes longer, but the machine completes the wash. This shouldn't be the way it works. I love the Neptune TL for its retro look and lack of Maytag's classic big cranky knob. Too bad it runs like ****.
You will need to replace the timer. Let me explain why; After the agitation cycle, the machine will enter a drain mode where the basket will not spin, only drain. After some time, the timer should 'pause' causing the machine to engage the spin clutch. The timer contact has become stuck, not allowing the pause, thus never entering engaging the spin clutch.
Machine has a bad motor or "stator" on this machine. It is a direct drive winding on the back of the machine. Remove the back panel, the one bolt removes the rotor then you will see the stator winding, replace it and your good to go.