The machine goes through all cycles until the final spin. I removed the sheet and tested for a code and it indicated I have a problem with my clutch or pressure tube. I removed the agitator and unscrewed the plate holding the tub in but I can't remove the wash tub from the barrel.
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Not sure what you mean but if the washer doesn't spin then it's probably the switch that controls the spin action.
On most washers, when you open the lid or door the spin cycle stops for safety's sake. In many cases, there is a small extension on the door or lid that engages the switch when you close it. Look where the extension is supposed to engage and that's the switch. I was able to fix my broken switch on my GE washer by cutting the edge of the plastic on a pen and gluing it to the extension so it pushed the switch mechanism down further to start the spin cycle.
Hopes this helps.
Hello Tim. This is an annoying issue with the FP washers from the GWL15 and up. You will need to replace the main control, p/n 421232NAP If the unit is under warranty, call Fisher Paykel for service. If not, the control costs $168.00 US and is a fairly simple proceedure to replace.
I hate to say it but it sounds like the controller. I used to have one that had a similar problem that was fixed with a diverter and a controller. Another year or two later it was doing the same thing, so we just replaced it. Just a warning.
I have a problem with my MW512AU. Sometimes it drains after wash cycle, but sometimes it sticks when it goes to spin, doesn't get up to speed, water comes on for about 10 seconds and shuts off, and it tries to spin again. If I hit the wash progress switch it goes directly to final spin and works ok. I then have to run a 2nd wash cycle to rinse the clothes. I also noticed a buzzing sound when I turn on the power point, which lasts about 3 seconds before stopping. It will come back on every 3-4 minutes for 30 seconds. This is with the machine power switch off. It powers on normally.
If this machine is a Kenmore 417 Sourse (WCI) built washer with a font load,check tech sheet.I had the same problem on a Frigidaire frontload and it was the door latch/lock assembly.These machines can be tricky sometimes.Use tech sheet and make sure lock assembly ohms out ok.
Thank you for verifying the model type so many folks post non FAV6800A/FAV9800A questions in this forum machine specific topic area. FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual for reference.Sears Parts Direct for reference. You will need the Service Manual for support.I’m an owner like you with a solid repair skills on the machine and will try to help you DIY the repair if we can ID the issue through troubleshooting. Do you have this condition in all wash cycles?Will a Quick Wash cycle complete? Do you see the Cycle Status LED ever indicate the machine has moved to the Spin Cycle during the wash cycle? This could be a Control Board failure but we need to troubleshoot. I want to make sure the Wash basket will spin up with a Spin Only cycle selection.Can you select a Spin Only cycle with a empty wash basket.I would release the washer top so you can observe this test.I want to rule out a broken Clutch large wrap spring. Page 33 of the Service Manual will show you how to release the washer top from the base.In Spin Only cycle raise the top just enough to make sure the wash basket is rotating Counter Clock Wise – CCW with the Spin Only cycle selected and operated. If the above test doesn’t indicate an issue I would like you to try the Quick Service Cycle test on page 15 of the Service Manual and see if your FAV6800A will pass that test with no clothes in the washer.When you put the machine in Service Mode press and hold simultaneously the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys until the machine beeps and the LED display reads 00. Then press Wash/Rinse Temp to start Quick Service Cycle test.Did the test complete with a PA indication in the display?It will only display the PA code for a few seconds.End of cycle will beep washer will unlock and Cycle Status LED will indicate complete. Waiting for your reply….Rich