I blew some of the outputd on the amp and im trying to fing a store or a website where i can purches the parts can someone help me please IRFZ44N 1-R450G =4 OF THESE 86 EE IRFZ44N 1-R450G =2 " " 87 01 FMG5 ->
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Re: component for amplifier
All of the components with the IRFZ44N part numbers are the same. The rest of the information is the date/manufacturing code and isn't really important (although they should match if they were all used in the power supply). Digikey has them. The new lead free version is IRFZ44NPBF. The rectifier ->
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But even if you find one you're stuck with the same dedicated amp.
I once had a powered sub that blew its internal amp and the store gave me a whole new sub. THAT one blew the same way so I disconnected the internal amp and now use it as a passive sub with a separate amplifier that I own. Separable amp/speakers allow for the surviving component to be redeployed.
Open the Amp up. Look for any black spots on the board. If it "blew" you should see a burnt electrical component, perhaps a RCA jack where the cords go. That's the first step in looking at a suspected "blown amp"... is to try and see if you can see what blew.
Let me know what you find. If the fuse is blowing just as quick as the power feed is connected there is a burnt part of the board and/or a component. I suspect a diode. They allow current one way and are what one may say a fuse on the board itself in the form of a component.
Sounds like someone or something blew out the final (amplifier). If they aren't getting any signal on their meter, when your are further away, then this is what would be going on. A service tech or repair shop would need to replace the bad part(s) and recalibrate the radio for the new amp.
Only other problem would be if you either have no antenna connected, or one that is non-functional.
Check for burned components, broken wires or cracked insulation on wires. Inspect the tube sockets and circuit boards for carbon tracks. Next, check the power supply rectifiers for shorts.
If you don't find anything, pull out all of the tubes (be sure to document where each tube goes!) and see if the fuses still blow. If they don't, one of the tubes has an internal short. (If the fuses blew only after warm-up, it would be an overload on a tube rather than a short through the tube.)
If this was a solid-state amplifier, I'd suggest checking the audio output driver transistors - this is the most common fuse-blowing failure in those.
your amp can be repaired by a professional to hard for someone without electronics training. you may find it is to expensive to repair. new will probably be your best bet.but do find out about repair before buying new. I have a local shop here that has a 60 dollar fee to look at it then if parts are needed they have an hourly rate plus parts. good luck
Hello, first the ESP is for communicating with Directed security systems. If your fuse blew then your amp may have a security feature that disables the amp. The new Directed amps have these features. You need to read your manual or see if you can download one. You should be able to take care of it that way. If you do get it unlocked cause of a security feature and it still does not work, then you are having some internal component problems. I do amp repairs for a living. I own a car audio installation and amp repair shop. I'm the cheapest amp repair you will find anywhere. So if it turns out to be more than you can handle I can repair it for you if interested.
Often times, car audio amps arent worth repairing, the components are hard to find, and harder to get small numbers of (like one amp worth) if its a blown cap inside the amp theres a very high likelyhood it took out other parts in the amp too...
When working one of thease kinds of problems, always ask yourself, WHY, 1) why am i repairing it, is it worth the time/effort. 2) Why did Component "X" die? What Killed it? and in turn what did it killed as it died?