Burner cap Unable to clean dirt on the inner side of the burner base. Tried using a pin.

Put the burner base and caps in a resealable plastic bag.
Pour in about 1/4 cup ammonia.
leave in a safe place away from kids and pets.
leave for about 1 to 2 days.
In the sink dump the ammonia.
Wash the parts with water and scrub with green scrub pad.
CAUTION!!! Ammonia is strong stuff. Use gloves goggles and do not breath fumes. Open windows.
Never never never mix with bleach.

see this instructions and fix it. God bless you

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5. How to Troubleshoot a Gas Range Oven That Won't Heat

How to Troubleshoot a Gas Range Oven That Won't Heat
By Kefa Olang, eHow Contributor

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Although gas range oven may prove useful for cooking and baking, they may fail to ignite if they aren't properly maintained and set up. Lighting a gas range often involves simply turning a knob; however, blockages from food particles and debris caught in the burners, improper burner cap installation and gas supply are common problems that interfere with your gas range oven's performance. A few troubleshooting guidelines may solve these problems safely.

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Things You'll Need

• Toothpick
• Paperclip

Instructions

1. • 1
     Check you have gas in your tank if your gas range oven won't heat. Contact your gas supplier if you've run out of gas.
     
     
   • 2
     Clean the burners if you have gas but your burners still won't ignite. To clean the burners, lift the burner caps
   • 3
     Inspect the small vertical holes on the side of your burners for dirt, food and debris. The gas won't ignite if they are clogged. Scrape dirt, debris and food from the vertical holes using a pointy object such as a toothpick or paperclip.
     
     
   • 4
     Reinstall the burner caps properly. If they are tilted or wobbly, the gas may not ignite. Install the caps on the right burners. Some burners are smaller than others, so match the caps to the appropriate burners.
     
     
   • 5
     Move the burner knob to the "Lite" position and wait for the gas to ignite. If it ignites, rotate the knob to your desired setting. If it doesn't ignite, contact a qualified appliance technician.
     
     

Click here Frank.

Sodium based grease is not compatible with lithium based grease. Do not lubricate the wheel bearings without first thoroughly cleaning all old grease from the bearing. Use of incompatible bearing lubricants could result in premature lubricant breakdown.

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
   
2. Remove the wheels.
   
3. Remove the brake drum or brake disc.
   
4. Remove the hub grease cap.
   
5. Remove the cotter pin retainer, adjusting nut and flatwasher from the rear wheel spindle. Discard the cotter pin.
   
6. Remove the outer bearing and cone assembly.
   
7. Remove the rear hub from rear wheel spindle.
   
8. Using Seal Remover (TOOL-1175-AC) or equivalent, remove and discard the oil seal.
   
9. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly.
   
10. Clean the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent. Inspect the bearing cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear and other damage. If the bearing cups are worn or damaged, remove them using a Bearing Cup Puller (T77F-1102A) or equivalent.
    

To install:

1. Throughly clean old grease from the surrounding surfaces. If a new hub assembly is being installed, remove the protective coating using degreaser.
   
2. If the inner or outer bearing cups were removed, install replacement cups using Bearing Cup Replacer (T73-1202-A) or equivalent. Seat the cups properly in the hub.
   

If a bearing packer is not available, work as much grease as possible between the rollers and cages. Grease the cone surfaces.

1. Using a bearing packer, pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with a premium bearing grease.
   
2. Place inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. A light film of grease should be included between the lips of the new grease retainer.
   
3. Install the retainer with Hub Seal Replacer (T83T-1175-B) or equivalent. Be sure the retainer is properly seated.
   

Keep the hub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the retainer and spindle threads.

1. Install the hub assembly on the spindle.
   
2. Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly on the spindle.
   
3. Install the flat washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 18-23 ft. lbs. (24-31 Nm) while rotating the hub to set the end-play. Back off the nut and retighten to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
   
4. Install the new cotter pin.
   
5. Install hub grease cap.
   
6. Install brake drum or disc.
   
7. Install the wheels.
   
8. Lower the vehicle.
   

There are two bearings on each front wheel, an inner and an outer bearing. Changing them is not hard if you are mechanically inclined. What you do is, jack the front end up to lift the wheel off the ground and put a jackstand to support the vehicle and put a block on teh rear wheels...DO NOT USE THE JACK ONLY!!!

Once the vehicle is up, remove the wheel to access the disc brakes.

Remove the caliper from the rotor and place it somewhere in the wheel well where the brake line will not be stressed...THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT...the job gets a LOT harder if the brake line breaks!

Next, remove the bearing cap to reveal the cotter pin and bearing nut, remove the cotter pin and nut DO NOT LOSE THESE!!!

You will see the outer bearing, remove it, the washer, and the race then pull the rotor off to reveal the inner bearing, race, and grease seal; remove these, DO NOT FORGET HOW THEY CAME OFF!!!

Clean the spindle and the rotor meaning get all the dirt and crud...this has to be squeaky clean or dirt will get inside and you will be replacing your bearings again in a couple of months.

Now, you need to pack the inner bearing with grease...what I do is wear nitrile gloves and scoop a handful of grease out of the container into the palm of my hand, then I take the new bearing and push it into the grease ensuring grease is in the bearing and coming out the other side.

Next install the grease seal, inner bearing and race by following the removal steps in reverse order. While you're at it, put a good amount of grease on the spindle...there is no such thing as too much grease.

Slide the rotor on until it makes with the inner bearing, make sure the rotor is on straight, if you can't get it straight the inner bearing is not on straight so do the inner bearing again to get it on straight and then put the rotor on...it should slide easily on with no resistance and rotate freely.

Now pack the outer bearing the same way you packed the inner bearing and slide it on the spindle. Install the washer, this will most likely have a tab on it to align the spindle, make sure the washer is on correctly.

Now you are going to reinstall the nut but only hand tighten it for now because you are going to have to spin the rotor forwards and backwards to ensure it rotates freely and is straight.

Once you determine the rotor is straight and rotates freely, tighten the nut about a quarter turn (no more than 16 foot-pounds). If the nut is castellated, ensure it is lined up with the hole in the spindle. Now install a new cotter pin...IT HAS TO BE NEW, using the old one increases the risk of the pin breaking which will let the nut loosen which will end up with your wheel coming off, most likely while you're doing 80 on the Interstate.

Once the cotter pin is installed and bent, fit the cap back on. The pin should be bent sufficiently to allow the cap to be tapped on.

Now reinstall the caliper and pads, put the wheel back on and you are done!

There are two bearings on teh front wheel, an inner and an outer bearing. Changing them is not hard if you are mechanically inclined. What you do is, jack the front end up to lift the wheel off the ground and put a jackstand to support the vehicle and put a block on teh rear wheels...DO NOT USE THE JACK ONLY!!!

Once the vehicle is up, remove the wheel to access the disc brakes.

Remove the caliper from the rotor and place it somewhere in the wheel well where the brake line will not be stressed...THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT...the job gets a LOT harder if the brake line breaks!

Next, remove the bearing cap to reveal the cotter pin and bearing nut, remove the cotter pin and nut DO NOT LOSE THESE!!!

You will see the outer bearing, remove it, the washer, and the race then pull the rotor off to reveal the inner bearing, race, and grease seal; remove these, DO NOT FORGET HOW THEY CAME OFF!!!

Clean the spindle and the rotor meaning get all the dirt and crud...this has to be squeaky clean or dirt will get inside and you will be replacing your bearings again in a couple of months.

Now, you need to pack the inner bearing with grease...what I do is wear nitrile gloves and scoop a handful of grease out of the container into the palm of my hand, then I take the new bearing and push it into the grease ensuring grease is in the bearing and coming out the other side.

Next install the grease seal, inner bearing and race by following the removal steps in reverse order. While you're at it, put a good amount of grease on the spindle...there is no such thing as too much grease.

Slide the rotor on until it makes with the inner bearing, make sure the rotor is on straight, if you can't get it straight the inner bearing is not on straight so do the inner bearing again to get it on straight and then put the rotor on...it should slide easily on with no resistance and rotate freely.

Now pack the outer bearing the same way you packed the inner bearing and slide it on the spindle. Install the washer, this will most likely have a tab on it to align the spindle, make sure the washer is on correctly.

Now you are going to reinstall the nut but only hand tighten it for now because you are going to have to spin the rotor forwards and backwards to ensure it rotates freely and is straight.

Once you determine the rotor is straight and rotates freely, tighten the nut about a quarter turn (no more than 16 foot-pounds). If the nut is castellated, ensure it is lined up with the hole in the spindle. Now install a new cotter pin...IT HAS TO BE NEW, using the old one increases the risk of the pin breaking which will let the nut loosen which will end up with your wheel coming off, most likely while you're doing 80 on the Interstate.

Once the cotter pin is installed and bent, fit the cap back on. The pin should be bent sufficiently to allow the cap to be tapped on.

Now reinstall the caliper and pads, put the wheel back on and you are done!

In order to replace the front rotors, you first jack the front end up to lift the wheel off the ground and put a jackstand to support the vehicle and put a block on the rear wheels...DO NOT USE THE JACK ONLY!!!

Once the vehicle is up, remove the wheel to access the disc brakes.

Remove the caliper from the rotor and place it somewhere in the wheel well where the brake line will not be stressed...THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT...the job gets a LOT harder if the brake line breaks!

Next, remove the bearing cap to reveal the cotter pin and bearing nut, remove the cotter pin and nut DO NOT LOSE THESE!!!

You will see the outer bearing, remove it, the washer, and the race then pull the rotor off to reveal the inner bearing, race, and grease seal; remove these, DO NOT FORGET HOW THEY CAME OFF!!!

Clean the spindle meaning get all the dirt and crud...this has to be squeaky clean or dirt will get inside and you will be replacing your bearings in a couple of months. Use new bearings when putting it back together, this ensures everything is clean and freshly greased.

You will need to pack the inner bearing with grease...what I do is wear nitrile gloves and scoop a handful of grease out of the container into the palm of my hand, then I take the new bearing and push it into the grease ensuring grease is in the bearing and coming out the other side.

Next install the grease seal, inner bearing and race by following the removal steps in reverse order. While you're at it, put a good amount of grease on the spindle...there is no such thing as too much grease.

Slide the new on until it makes with the inner bearing, make sure the rotor is on straight, if you can't get it straight the inner bearing is not on straight so do the inner bearing again to get it on straight and then put the rotor on...it should slide easily on with no resistance and rotate freely.

Now pack the outer bearing the same way you packed the inner bearing and slide it on the spindle. Install the washer, this will most likely have a tab on it to align the spindle, make sure the washer is on correctly.

Now you are going to reinstall the nut but only hand tighten it for now because you are going to have to spin the rotor forwards and backwards to ensure it rotates freely and is straight.

Once you determine the rotor is straight and rotates freely, tighten the nut about a quarter turn (no more than 16 foot-pounds). If the nut is castellated, ensure it is lined up with the hole in the spindle. Now install a new cotter pin...IT HAS TO BE NEW, using the old one increases the risk of the pin breaking which will let the nut loosen which will end up with your wheel coming off, most likely while you're doing 80 on the Interstate.

Once the cotter pin is installed and bent, fit the cap back on. The pin should be bent sufficiently to allow the cap to be tapped on.

Now reinstall the caliper and pads, put the wheel back on and you are done!

To Clean:
IMPORTANT: Before cleaning, make sure all controls are off and
the oven and cooktop are cool. Do not use oven cleaners, bleach
or rust removers.
1. Remove the burner cap from the burner base and clean
according to “General Cleaning” section.
2. Clean the gas tube opening with a damp cloth.
3. Clean clogged burner ports with a straight pin as shown. Do
not enlarge or distort the port. Do not use a wooden
toothpick. If the burner needs to be adjusted, contact a
trained repair specialist.
4. Replace the burner cap, making sure the alignment pins are
properly aligned with the burner cap.
5. Turn on the burner. If the burner does not light, check cap aligment.

Remove the burner caps (where the gas and flame come out) and wash in warm soapy water, using a plastic toothbrush like brush to scrub thoroughly.

Also clean/scrub the burner bases and ignition knob on the top of the cooktop.

When you reassemble, make sure the burner caps are properly seated in the burner bases.

Most of the time when I come out for a service call with this problem, it is usually because the burner cap is not seated properly on the base. Look at the burner and make sure there are no uneven gaps. Most of the time you will have to rotate the burner cap till a notch or pin "seats" into place. Most burner caps just sit on the bases, and so they get knocked off or moved when the cooktop is cleaned or installed. Hope this helps!