After reassembly blade will not cut wood, does not maintain suffient tension despite being correctly inserted

blade still loose need more tension --

It's not the saw, it's the blade... if you can find a metal cutting blade for a jigsaw then you are good to go... Any other type of blade would wear out instantly.

sure will , most saws have different angle cuts to teeth on blade this "angle" needs to be maintained as the "rake" teeth that are behind the cut teeth are set to provide a good way to wipe out cut debris (cut,rake,cut,etc.) this is how chain cuts thru wood , if one changes the cut angle on teeth the rake teeth might not do there job correct and saw bogs and "files" thru wood rather than chips thru wood ,takes longer ,more fuel, more effort , a look at saw cuttings tells the tale , more tiny file sawdust = dull chain --- large Chips and less dust = sharp chain

First question: What are you cutting? Are you cutting wood? If you're using fence, I need you to make adjustments on it . The nature of the band saw is to drift either left or right being parallel with the band saw fence. Is the blade tension too tight or insufficient? Check your manual for correct tension or you can just see in the tension gauge on your saw. Please this blog on how to check the correct blade tension . What is your feed and speed rate? Make sure the you're not feeding the wood too slow or too fast. Are you using new blade? Your blade is may be dull or low quality. I purchased my blades on www.sawblade.com . Their Haltbar 201 Series works great on general wood cutting.
Last question, have you taken up time to tune up your saw? See this blog for your reference.

if you want to know about saw, like different kinds of saw . you have to read through this blog

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There are two levers that must be pressed to switch it on. Make sure that the sight glass in the oil bottle always has oil in it, Any thinner oil will do. The chain drive teeth should almost clear the guide when pulled out, that is the correct tension for the chain. (When this tension can no longer be maintained the chain must be replaced) Cut with the blade close to the guard and avoid using the tip to cut. Be very careful using the upper side of the blade to cut with, avoid it as best you can. Make sure that you are on sure footing when using the machine. Be careful not to pinch the blade and guide when cutting. Gauge the part being cut so that it falls away from you and the saw. Avoid cutting dry wood, especially hard wood. It dulls the blade very quickly. Avoid cutting dirty sandy wood, this causes wear. Keep hands, clothing and hair away from the moving blade. Unplug the saw when doing any work on it. Thoroughly clean the machine after use. remove the blade and clean out the recesses around the blade and the drive gear, blow or brush out these areas well.
That is about it, otherwise it is common sense safety precautions - remember, this is an extremely dangerous machine and is not at all forgiving for even the smallest lapse in concentration of care.

When it cuts out while cutting heavy wood, there are several things you can do.

First, check to be sure you are not feeding the wood in too fast.
Next, be sure the saw blade is clean of pitch.
And, be sure the blade and fence are aligned.
Are the teeth of the saw showing completely over the wood? Just the tooth should stick up over your board.
Also, if this is a continuous problem despite cleaning and all the above, installing heavier belts sometimes helps.

"woodworker by night"
Handy Andie

This is a common issue with jig saws. There are sometimes larger blades, but all seem to distort to some degree. The only real solution is to go slow enough to allow the blade to return to it's normal shape...Essentially, is sounds like another tool would work better, but often you are scrolling with a jig saw and circular saw (for example) would not work.

The other workaround involves several cuts, so the final cut is removing much less material.

This could have many causes...depending on the model of saw, the wood being cut, the blade you're using, etc. etc.
Check that the blade is correctly installed, up to tension, and sharp. Make sure the wheels run smoothly on their on, and under power. Check the horsepower of the motor, and make sure to keep the feed rate down within the motor's capacity. Finally, don't twist the work being cut to a smaller radius than the size blade will handle, or you will bind the blade in the cut.
If you are cutting wood with pitch or grain that is likely to be under tension, perhaps you need to insert a wedge into the cut to prevent the work from pinching the blade as it continues the cut.
I hope that leads to a solution. Sometimes all you can do is feed slowly and be patient...

Use a pencil and straight edge to mark the cutting line on the wood. Place the wood on the saw table and line the mark up with the saw. Place the mark on the right side of the blade to ensure proper cutting. Plug the saw in and put on your safety goggles. Support the wood on the work surface with your left hand, placing it far from the saw blade. Place your right hand on the handle, and push the trigger to start the saw. Move the saw blade down onto the wood. Put constant pressure on the handle to slowly move the blade through the wood. Release the trigger and raise the blade once the cut is complete. Make diagonal cuts in the same manner, by marking the wood and lining the mark up just to the right of the saw blade. Continue as you would for a straight cut. Remove the wood from the saw. Unplug the chop saw and dust the sawdust off. Remove the dust bag from the back and empty it. Vacuum any remaining dust off of the saw.