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Is it possible that you have one of the flanges on incorrectly or that a spacer is missing from under the inner flange ( if it has one). If neither give me the model and brand and I will find a schematic and see what I can do.Is it possible that you have one of the flanges on incorrectly or that a spacer is missing from under the inner flange ( if it has one). If neither give me the model and brand and I will find a schematic and see what I can do.
If you tightened it enough and it still slips than it may be missing a spacer Try adding a washer to the arbor of the same size on the nut side of the blade.
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by stalling do you mean that the blade stops spinning or the motor stops turning
if the blade stops spinning then the mounting bolt for the blade is not tight enough
if the motor stops spinning , junk it and get a new unit
I'm not sure if you have a chop saw or circular saw. Either way, it sounds like the nut and washer are not tight enough to hold the blade. If you have a circular saw clockwise will tighten the nut and washer onto the blade and hold it in place. Most chop saws are a left hand thread and then you would turn the nut counter clockwise to hold the blade tighter. The blade wobbles because it is not tight.
From the description it sounds to me like the bolt holding the blade in place isn't tight enough, obviously. If there isn't a button on the saw that stops the blade from rotating when you're changing out the blade. Try this--when tightening down the blade, put it on the saw, then open the guard and rest the blade on a piece of scrap wood to stop if from moving. Then fully tighten down the bolt that holds the blade in place and you should be fine.
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Does the motor continue to run? If so, the blade retaining bolt may not be tight enough. Most saws have a 'stop' pin which locks the drive during the blade tightening procedure. Make sure the blade is very sharp to reduce cutting effort. Hope this helps!
The motor is 'locked up' that's where the heat is coming from. It may have a bad bushing or something is jammed. Give it a good look over you may see it. Does the blade feel hard to turn?
Had the same problem with my mower. Find a length of metal pipe that will fit over the handle of your socket wrench and it will give you more torque. The nut on mine would not even budge with a 12" extension bar, but when I put a 3ft steel pipe over the bar, it popped loose with very little effort. I also used a wood block to hold the blade tight
1st, !!UNPLUG the saw!! Wear gloves to prevent nicks from contact with the saw blades.
If this is a handheld 'skill-saw' type saw, use a piece of wood to chock the saw blade from turning as you use a proper size socket/wrench to loosen the bolt which holds the blade.
The bolt will loosen counter-clock wise. It will probably be very tight, and you will have to use some effort to loosen it.
Remove the bolt, lift the follow guard and remove the blade.
Replace the blade with a like size diameter blade by raising the follow guard, inserting the blade, replacing the bolt, using a piece of wood to keep the blade from rotating and TIGHTEN the bolt. You will almost feel as if you need three hands to accomplish this procedure but its been done millions of successful times.
You've answered this yourself. The blade only needs to be nipped up enough to grip. If it slips, it will tighten. Thats why, some machines have a left hand thread, as they always rotate so as to tighten in the event of slippage.
If the blade slips under normal service, suggest you clean both blade and the flanges, and just do it up a little tighter next time.
on my craftsman I cant find a blade lock to allow tightening!!
Is it possible that you have one of the flanges on incorrectly or that a spacer is missing from under the inner flange ( if it has one). If neither give me the model and brand and I will find a schematic and see what I can do.
Are you using the supplied tool to tighten the blade?
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