The part that you screw the cable wire into is broken off.

remove the front grill on car!
the latch is there. attack it directly

or find the cable. somehere and yank hard from side?
or cut the cable , then strip it back , unwound
and grab center wire, and pull with vise grips. bam opens. (luck)
if center wire is broken under hood then only grill off is the way.
its just a cable. no magic here.
access only is the question.

usually humming is caused by defective cables. Check if the cable is wired correctly. Open both XLR plugs and check:
Pin 1 shield
Pin 2 hot (usually red wire)
Pin 3 cold (black, blue or whatever)
Pinnumbers are written near pins usually.
If that doesn't help shake the cable for contact issues.
The microphone could have a broken shield connections as well. Maybe there's a small screw near the XLR output connector. Unscrew (sometimes this screw needs to be turned CLOCKWISE) and check connections.

If I understand correctly, you are replacing a single switch that has two wires.
You want to install a switch/plug-gfci similar to one shown below.

You are working on wires inside a box:
To wire this kind of device you need at least 2 cables entering the box.
Each cable has a black-white-ground wire.
Cable 1) One cable comes from breaker box. This is the Hot cable
Hot cable has black-hot-from-breaker & white-neutral-from-breaker

Cable 2) One cable goes to the Load (light, fan motor). This wire is controlled by the switch. This is the Load cable
Load cable has black-to-load & white-to-load.



Leviton combo GFCI and Switch
There are 2 screws on either side of switch
There are 2 screws to either side of plug
There are two wires on back of device

2 screws on either side of switch: there is a brass-colored screw and silver-colored screw.
Black-hot-from-breaker connects to brass colored screw on side of switch
White-neutral-from-breaker connects to silver colored screw on side of switch

2 black wires on back of device
Black-to-load connects to black wire on same side of switch as brass-colored screws
White-to-load connects to black wire on same side of switch as silver-colored screws

2 screws on either side of plug
These screws are used when your box is a 'junction' box that feeds wires forward to another box ... for example you have 4 receptacles in a room, the cable enters first box and then goes to the next box and to the next box. Suppose your switch was one of the boxes. Wire arrives from a previous box (this is the Hot cable, every box has 1 Hot cable). Your switch box sends one cable to the Load (light, fan etc), but it also sends another cable to the next box which has a receptacle or another switch.
If your box has a third cable that feeds forward to other boxes, then the screws on either side of plug are used. The black-to-next-box goes to brass screw. The white-to-next-box connects to silver screw.
And all further boxes and devices are protected by the GFCI device.

If you need more information, please answer back and I will help.

You can buy a new plug and solder the wires to it. Leave a long enough piece of wire on the old plug to test to see which wire goes where. On the plug it should be tip+left, 2nd ring + right and the base or body is ground. Don't forget to put the shield that screws on the plug right way around on the cable before you solder.

just have to take off the plastic flexible casing it is screwed to the head. then you can pull the old wire out, if it it broken take out the plastic bellow and the 2 screws that are underneath that. then u can pull the remain of the old[broke shatf wire. To unscrew the casing use a plier and hold the metal piece not the plastic or u will broke it. \ REMENBER THE CASING IS NOT THE VACUUM HOSE IS UNDER IT.

I had the same problem with the shifter cable braking.They were very expensive to replace.My cable tube(the outer part with the adjustable nuts) was still good.The cable itself was broken.I went to the nieghborhood hardware store and bought a length of cable of the correct size.I then used an electrical eyelet at each end (the eyelet has place to slide wire into it then it get crimped to hold the wire,also it has a hole in it so a screw or bolt can go through to hold it in place.I connected an eyelet to one end of cable,2nd I fed the cable through the tube,3rd, I put a screw through the hole were the cable connect to the shift linkage(@ trans),4th placed the eyelet on the screw 5th then placed the nut on the screw .At end of cable where shift nob is I placed an eyelet where the cable originally went,Pulled the new cable through taking out ALL the slack,Marked cable then crimped it,placed nut on screw.It works like new.MAKE SURE THE LINKAGE and SHIFT NOB ARE IN NUTURAL POSITION

find another TV, VCR (many around now), or other cable using device and exchange - 7 or so screws on  back of tv come right off and expose lower interface where cable jack is.  remove wires, solder salvaged unit in and it works....  Be careful when removing back of tv -  you can pull other wires when doing so.

HI SIMPLE REPLACED THE PART IT IS KNOW AS TUNER OPEN THE SET AND DESOVE THE SOLDERING AND BRING THE SAME TYPE OF TUNER AND REPLACED IT IT WILL BE OK