Code e30 error

SOURCE: Error code 20

I am a woman who is pretty house/mechanically handy (esp. having been an electronics and computer tech in the Navy some years back), and today, I was able to fix this issue on my 1-year old Frigidaire Affinity front-loader. The issue is, in fact, a clogged drain pump. It happens because there is a small white basket located inside the pump and drain mechanism, and it collects debris and things like hair, etc. as it drains the dirty water from your machine.
Here is what you'll have to do, and it's a pain (and time consuming), but it will save you several hundred bucks for a service call. I was able to accomplish the whole job with a mid-sized phillipshead screwdriver, a pair of needle-nose pliers, a flashlight (a must!) an adjustable wrench, a two-by-four piece of wood and some paint cans (to prop up the machine to make it easier to work on), a bunch of towels (to clean up the water that leaks out of the drain hoses and pump), a couple of hours--and glasses of wine to keep me from kicking the thing apart.
On the newer models of this machine, there is no bottom front access panel. This is what makes your job a pain in the you-know-what. You can reach the pump through the back round access panel (although it's a tight fit), but the problem is the pump contains a series of clamps, the most notable of which is a screw-clamp the assemblers have assembled with the screw-tightener facing toward the front of the machine. You might be able to loosen it enough with a pair of needle nose pliers from the back access panel area, but if you cannot, see my additional info below.
Try this first:
1. Once you UNPLUG THE ELECTRICAL PLUG (a little CYA for the dense), put the paint cans under the back corners of the machine. This is really going to help you reach the area you have to work in--otherwise you will wreck your neck and back. You'll then remove the smaller round access panel from the back, to see the pump located beneath the wash drum and belt drive. It's black, rubber, and attached to a series of drain hoses and the motor with a few clamps (mostly green in color on my machine). Assuming you are able to reach the pump and loosen the screw clamp coming from the main tub drain (it's waaaay behind the tub and a complete pain to get to--either from the front OR the back, so try first to loosen the screw from behind with some needle nose pliers).
2. Next, you need to remove all the drain clamps and hoses and unscrew the motor from the bottom baseplate of the washing machine. You'll need to also unclip the electrical line from the motor and place it up and out of the way (I just put it in the belt) so it won't get wet. JUST DON'T FORGET TO RETURN IT TO THE MOTOR DURING REASSEMBLY. The screws are located on either side of the motor casing and are black, so the flashlight comes in handy. Unscrewing the motor from the baseplate first makes removing and replacing the clamps much easier.
3. Remove the black pump and drain mechanism and the motor. Make sure there is nothing in the motor housing (just in case). You'll note that once you dump the collected water from the pump, there should be a white plastic round basket with holes inside the pump unit. It might be set into the large mouth of the pump, but it might have also been forced into the large open body of the pump over time. It also might be so clogged with stuff that it is unrecognizable at first, but you need to pull it out, clean it out, and wash the whole unit out with bleach water or CLR and water. As an aside, you'll probably want to do the same to the inside and outside grey drain hoses while you're at it. You can remove the inside grey drain hose by unscrewing it at the upper left exit panel, lifting the plastic catch up off the access panel, and unclipping it from inside holding clips in the machine. I also, as a precaution, took a wire hanger and ran it through to make sure nothing was caught in either of them (I have three teenagers, so you never know).
4. Once you clean the whole unit out, replace the white filter basket by placing it into the large mouth of the pump. It ought to fit in that recess perfectly. Also, ***note this***: before you replace the pump, go ahead and replace the grey inside drain hose onto the pump. It's much easier to clamp on while the pump/motor unit is still outside of the machine housing than once you've put it back in!
5. Now is the hard part! You have to replace the remaining clamps and hose lines. A ****second note****: I decided to go ahead and remove the screw-clamp and place it backwards so that I could reattach and tighten it from behind next time (having had to remove the front panel and electrical work to access it in the first place....see note below). I won't lie to you--it's a complete PITA. You have to make sure the lip of the pump opening is set high enough to that part of the washdrum that when you tighten it back on, it is water-tight and cannot slip back off. I used the needle nose pliers to help push it up further. It also is pretty hard to reach, and the belt-drive housing has a sharp edge to it that can gouge your arm while you're doing it. Anyhow, replace the screw-clamp part of the pump first, and it will make it easier to do the rest, as it will hold the pump in place. You may need to twist it tight as much as possible by hand, then use a phillipshead and/or needle nose pliers to tighten it the rest of the way. It ought to be tight enough that if you pull on the black rubber drain unit, it won't cause that part to slip back off. Next, you need to replace the upper left smaller hose-connection (next to the large opening of the pump with the screw-clamp). You'll probably want to push the clamp up onto the white opening, return the rubber pump connector to it, and then reclamp down (much easier than trying to clamp it from the bottom). It's a pain because there's only so much room for your hands, and you cannot really get the clamp on straight at that angle without a lot of patience.
6. Once you've replaced the pump lines, go ahead and screw the motor back onto the bottom of the machine. Also, DON'T forget to re-attach the electrical line to the motor. Replace the outer grey hose with its respective clamp, screw the back access panel back in, and you're ready to plug her back in and wash some clothes!
****A note about the screw-clamp****, incase you cannot reach it from the back. You are going to have to undo it from the front, which will require you to also do the following:
1. Remove the top of the machine by unscrewing the two screws on the upper back of the machine. Once you do this, you will see the electrical wires for the control panel. DON'T UNDO ANYTHING. It will appear you might have to in order to take off the front panel, but you won't.
2. Next, take the two-by-four or some paint cans and place them under the front of the machine to help prop it up so you can unscrew the four bottom screws from the front panel. It's not going to come off just by doing that, so you have to take out the detergent tray, where you'll then see two screws inside the tray crevice and you'll have to take them out. Set those two aside elsewhere--they are longer than the other screws and you'll want to make sure you put them back in the right place. On the top front edge of the washer's control panel there should be two screws on either side securing the plastic control panel to the front of the washer. Unscrew those. You should now see the remaining screws holding the front panel on. Unscrew those as well.
3. Next, open the front door of the washer and you'll see a little grey set of plugs that look sort of like USB ports on the right-hand side. There are two screws holding it on--undo those. You should now be able to pull the front panel out just enough to reach that screw-clamp in the front to unscrew it. Once you do, go ahead and replace all the screws and parts of the front and top you've undone. You'll want to do that before you proceed to taking out the pump and cleaning it, so that you can remember how to do it more easily.
A last note: When you remove the top panel of the washing machine, you will see some papers taped in there with funny drawings (in case you are a novice and not familiar with schematics). PLEASE LEAVE THEM THERE! They are the schematics for the circuitry of your machine, and God forbid you one day have to have THAT worked on, your repair person will definitely need them.
Good luck, and hope this will help you!

SOURCE: front load model LTF2940ES3 won't spin

I have the same washer and it will wash and drain but not spin. I replaced the door switch and the problem was solved.

SOURCE: Frigidaire GLTF2940FS...does not do a final spin/clothes wet

If water remains in the drum the unit will not go into the final spin.There may be a couple of reasons for your problem.
1.) A coin or other foreign object is blocking the drain hose. Check the drain hose for foreign objects impeding the exit of the water.
2.) The Drain hose is not raised above the machine outlet to create a siphon effect. See your manual for proper hose positioning.
3.) The pump is a third possibility which you should hear the impeller spinning during the drain cycle. There is a coin catch after the diaphragm of the pump that looks like a rubber boot that should be inspected for objects if you remove the pump. I believe the pump is about $60.00 and is accessible after removing the front panel under the door.

SOURCE: Frigidaire affinity front load. Starts

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on what you've described,...you likely need a door lock/switch assembly.

The door latch is likely the single most common fault (which prevent's any spin, and consequently drenching wet clothing at the end of the cycle) with the frigidaire/electrolux built washer's, aside from pump's being obstructed.

I think it fool's many people because the lock indicates it is energized on the panel, however the built in "monitor" switch inside the assembly fail's. I do see a lot of these particular machine's...unfortunately.

You should be able to purchase one at most local brick & mortar stores or on-line part's depot's such as "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclininc.com" to name a couple. They usually sell for about $50 or so, part # 1531974 ( # at repairclinic.com ) and are relatively easy to replace. It should resemble the image here...





As for replacing said switch, There are a couple ways to access it, through the top and squeezing your arm down the front or the way I prefer, remove the front bellows spring/retainer.

1) **unplug the washer from the wall...safety first of course.**

2) Remove the spring, get it started where the spring is located with a small screwdriver. Once you`ve got the spring/retainer off ( it comes off and on pretty easy by hand ) pull the gasket/bellows back away from the cabinet.









3) Undo the two screws holding the switch to the cabinet, pull the switch out ( there is just enough slack in the wires so don`t pull too hard ) and swap the wires from the old assembly to the new one and you`re in business.




4) To put it back together, just reverse the removal procedure. The trickiest part is the retainer. Rap the retainer around the boot leaving the spring for the last...and make sure the spring is located at the 6 o`clock position...usually. Just wherever it was initially.

Let me know if you need further assistance going forward or if my instructions are not clear.

P.S.
There is a slim chance of a faulty motor or motor control board, but that would not be where I would direct you to start...those are exceptions rather than the rule.


Thank you for visiting FixYa today. Good luck.

Regards,


Macmarkus :)

SOURCE: Frigidaire front loader washing machine won't spin...

The problem is a faulty Door Latch Assembly. The same thing happened to my Frigidaire front load washer. The part is easy to install, costs about 60 dollars and can be picked up at most appliance repair stores . To access the switch just remove the wire around the front drum gasket, peel back the rubber gasket beside the switch assembly then remove the two screws holding it in place. remove the three wire connector blocks and swap in the new switch. My washer was giving me error code 41 witch is a faulty control board. But the problem was in fact only the switch...