I found the instruction on running the tests at the bottom of the fridge and ran service test for freezer fan. Display did not show ON/OFF but instead showed some numbers (13.2 and 15, or something like that...)
Did not find evaporator fan, wondering if they are the same thing.
Is that a sign that it is broken and is the freezer fan and evaporator fan the same thing?
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has written 50 answers of more than 400 characters.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
Re: i have a cold freezer/warm fridge problem
Yes, They are the same thing.
Can you hear the fan motor running in the freezer? If not it probably needs replaced. Some units shut the fan off by a door switch. If its not running when the door is closed, it could be the door switch. If the fan is ok, make sure the thermostat is set right. Sometimes something in the frige gets bumped against it and it will get moved. NOTE: Allow aprox 12-24 hours for changes in thermostat settings to take full effect. If this all checks out ok I would suspect the defrost timer. Remove everything and place in coolers or another refrigerator. Unplug the refrigerator. With doors open let it sit for aprox 6 hrs. A fan blowing into the freezer section will help. Plug back in and see if it works good again. If it works good for a couple of days and problem returns, Replace the defrost timer. Hope this helps.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Have you confirmed the freezer door switch is functional? If this switch fails to detect the door is shut (you may or may not get an alarm), the unit will fail to cool properly. Meaning the actuator will not allow cold air to be diverted to the freezer.
If all else fails, you may try contacting LG directly by clicking here:
check the fan from the freezer side if its not running /possible frozen or jammed will cause the refridge side to be warm the fan blows the freezer air into the fridge side to cool their is also a damper or duct control which can build up if no blockage or debris test fan for power if power than test fan it self if not running than repair or replace as necessary
Behind the back wall of the freezer about halfway down, probably behind the light bulb (if there is one there) there is a fan. My guess is that the fan isn't working, or is slow. To test, open the freezer door, then hold the door switch closed and listen for the fan.
This fan should be blowing air up the back of the freezer, and send some of the cold air through a vent at the top of the freezer into the fridge. The air then descends through the fridge and reenters the freezer through a vent at the bottom. If the fan is broken, or if the upper vent is somehow blocked or broken, the cold air will enter (rather than exit) the fridge side at the bottom vent. Because cold air tends to descend and warm air rises, the cold air will freeze the stuff at the bottom of the fridge, and the thermostat (at the top of the fridge) will say it is warm.
The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by
manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal
closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the
refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by
unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds
before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into
cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try
the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
If the freezer is packed to the top and the air ducts are blocked it can not share the cold air with the refrigerator and it gets warm. If this is the problem, then the next day it should get cool again! let me know. If you decide you need service!
Here is a good company that's found nation wide. A&E Factory Service A&E has schedulers available to take appointments 24/7 And they do warranty work too, for most manufactures! 1(800) 905-9505
How old is the appliance? If the appliance is 10 years old or more you may not be advisable to put good money into bad! New appliances are so much more efficient today that they can save you a lot of money in energy!!!!
You will be fine Bless You ngafm1 PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING BEFORE YOU SIGN OFF
KentC, This was my post on a model like yours. Read thru this and let me know what you find.
If the ice/frost buildup is fairly thick and only on the back freezer panel then you have a defrost problem. Most likely the defrost thermostat is bad. It would be hard to explain how to test this in writing but there is a tech sheet underneath the fridge behind the grill on the r/f. It is in plastic which is stuck to the fridge. This tech sheet will tell you how to put it into diagnostic mode. First take the back panel of the freezer off (may need to get frost off first). Should be four 1/4" screws in each corner of the panel to remove. Will need to remove racks, door (should just lift off), and ice maker first. Remove vent in center of freezer panel by pushing up little tab in the center of the vent and using a screw driver to pop it loose on each side of the vent. Then remove thermistor cover on right hand side of panel. Remove (by pushing thru) ice maker plug. Once the panel is off put the fridge into defrost by the instructions on the tech sheet. If it goes into defrost (heater will get hot) then the main control board is bad. If not shut the doors to reset, defrost evaporator with a hair dryer and remove the defrost thermostat. It is a little metal round piece with two wires coming out of it and just clips onto the evaporator. Cut the two wires coming out of the thermostat, strip them back and splice them together. Now put it into defrost again. If the heater comes on then you know the thermostat is bad. Diagnostics mode can also test all functions i.e. condensor motor, compressor, evaporator fan, and thermistors. With all of that said, if it isn't a thick frost buildup the evaporator fan motor may be bad which is the most common repair on this model. It sits just behind the vent in the center of the freezer panel. Let me know what you find.